38 Super !
- Thread starter Al W.
- Start date
SuperMan
Member
Have been loading the .38 Super since 1980...10-25K rounds a year depending on how much competition shooting I was doing at the time. It has also been my carry caliber all those years.
Yes, you will need a new set of dies. My suggestion would be to get a Lee undersized die that is available from Midway and EGW. If you have any bulging of the case web this die will iron it all out for very reliable feeding. Also the Lee Factory Crimp die does an excellent job and they are cheap money.
Shell plates for the Dillon...a 9mm works fine but I believe there is a caliber specific one for the Super "O" maybe...have not looked for a while...
Brass...if you can find nickel it is much easier to find on the ground and in the grass... Really stands out when shooting in an area with lots of brass on the ground. I would not bother with the rimless SuperComp brass unless you have a double stack magazine as that is what it was developed for. The semi-rim Super case didn't like being stacked in those and caused feeding problems...
Bullets...one nice thing about the Super case over the 9mm or 9x23 is that it is straight wall....you can run any .355, .356 or .357 diameter bullet from 90 to 180 grains... If you look in the newest Hornady Manual they have loads listed for most of their 9mm and .38 bullets.
My favorite bullets are the 124 grain TC. Hornady HAP and the Berry's plated TC-HB are excellent...but any bullet shoots in a Super...
Depending on the barrel, most Super will also run 9x23 Winchester. That said make sure to run them with a 22-24# recoil spring. The guns i have that use 9x23 also have a flat bottom firing pin stop to delay the slide opening and slow things down. The Super runs at 35K PSI...the 9x23 55K PSI...the slide velocity when using 9x23 has to be seen to be appreciated...
Some reading....
38 Super
Corbon
How Does
http://www.k8nd.com/documents/hl38sup.pdf
Bob
Yes, you will need a new set of dies. My suggestion would be to get a Lee undersized die that is available from Midway and EGW. If you have any bulging of the case web this die will iron it all out for very reliable feeding. Also the Lee Factory Crimp die does an excellent job and they are cheap money.
Shell plates for the Dillon...a 9mm works fine but I believe there is a caliber specific one for the Super "O" maybe...have not looked for a while...
Brass...if you can find nickel it is much easier to find on the ground and in the grass... Really stands out when shooting in an area with lots of brass on the ground. I would not bother with the rimless SuperComp brass unless you have a double stack magazine as that is what it was developed for. The semi-rim Super case didn't like being stacked in those and caused feeding problems...
Bullets...one nice thing about the Super case over the 9mm or 9x23 is that it is straight wall....you can run any .355, .356 or .357 diameter bullet from 90 to 180 grains... If you look in the newest Hornady Manual they have loads listed for most of their 9mm and .38 bullets.
My favorite bullets are the 124 grain TC. Hornady HAP and the Berry's plated TC-HB are excellent...but any bullet shoots in a Super...
Depending on the barrel, most Super will also run 9x23 Winchester. That said make sure to run them with a 22-24# recoil spring. The guns i have that use 9x23 also have a flat bottom firing pin stop to delay the slide opening and slow things down. The Super runs at 35K PSI...the 9x23 55K PSI...the slide velocity when using 9x23 has to be seen to be appreciated...
Some reading....
38 Super
Corbon
How Does
http://www.k8nd.com/documents/hl38sup.pdf
Bob
Last edited:
Yes, it is
These days is seems Google and the Internet are the "in" thing.
There is no substitution for manuals.
Powder web sites will give you load data but reloading is more than a "cook book"
There is a wealth of information in the beginning chapters of manuals, (not the caliber load data)that a lot of folks need to read and understand but so many today want instant gratification.(this is not directed at you, I am just babbling, it is too hot outside to do anything!)
There was a great thread some time ago, I shall try to find it.
Yes, it is
These days is seems Google and the Internet are the "in" thing.
There is no substitution for manuals.
Powder web sites will give you load data but reloading is more than a "cook book"
There is a wealth of information in the beginning chapters of manuals, (not the caliber load data)that a lot of folks need to read and understand but so many today want instant gratification.(this is not directed at you, I am just babbling, it is too hot outside to do anything!)
There was a great thread some time ago, I shall try to find it.
I've been looking at the data provided buy the powder manufacturer and have to say that compared to the manuals their suggestions are very conservative . Which is fine for me. I'm developing target loads and not compulsive about power and velocity. Thats not my interest. So light loads are my province .
I'm not loading for bear.
The data is often at odds with it self. Comparing source to source and trying to find actual data on the projectiles you are firing is a challenge.
There are powders I have used that I don't see listed in any of the manuals. The lack of documentation is interesting. These are not new powders , but are powders that until recently were only compounded for the use of commercial ammunition companies , or so I have read.
The fronts of the manuals are instructive , I've read through a couple .
The cook book aspect is enticing and I don't think you can get into much trouble if you stay within the parameters of the manuals. Although its possible to make a mistake its not likely that you will double charge a 9mm or .380 case at least not with the powder I use. You could get in trouble with .38sp because of the case size.
The internet is fascinating.
I remember the days of no internet.
We still managed somehow
When I talk to the more experienced loaders at my club its clear that a lot of their knowledge came ,"word of mouth", if a guy was having good results on the line you copied their methods , often without reference to book or manual. Other folks are far more inquisitive and scientific in their approach.
I'm the empirical learning type, but I always stay within the bounds of safety .
Thanks for the feedback.
austintexas
Member
Why buy another powder measure? The Dillon is easy enough to move, just get the powder measure drop tube. I move my measure around between my Square Deals and the Dillon is easy enough to adjust. I have 3 Deals, one for large primer, one is for small primers and the last is a Deal dedicated to 223. I suspect that one came off Lackland AFB. I bought it used at a gunshow in San Antonio. I don't know who modified it but it looks factory.
SWCA892
SWCA892
I've been looking at the data provided buy the powder manufacturer and have to say that compared to the manuals their suggestions are very conservative . Which is fine for me. I'm developing target loads and not compulsive about power and velocity. Thats not my interest. So light loads are my province .
I'm not loading for bear.
The data is often at odds with it self. Comparing source to source and trying to find actual data on the projectiles you are firing is a challenge.
There are powders I have used that I don't see listed in any of the manuals. The lack of documentation is interesting. These are not new powders , but are powders that until recently were only compounded for the use of commercial ammunition companies , or so I have read.
The fronts of the manuals are instructive , I've read through a couple .
The cook book aspect is enticing and I don't think you can get into much trouble if you stay within the parameters of the manuals. Although its possible to make a mistake its not likely that you will double charge a 9mm or .380 case at least not with the powder I use. You could get in trouble with .38sp because of the case size.
The internet is fascinating.
I remember the days of no internet.
We still managed somehow
When I talk to the more experienced loaders at my club its clear that a lot of their knowledge came ,"word of mouth", if a guy was having good results on the line you copied their methods , often without reference to book or manual. Other folks are far more inquisitive and scientific in their approach.
I'm the empirical learning type, but I always stay within the bounds of safety .
Thanks for the feedback.
You can't go my "word of mouth" over the internet. If you know someone first hand in person and can verify they know what they are doing, then yes.
But here on the internet not so much. Even if someone really knows, a simple typo and kaa boom!
I will not post data, not afraid of liability just not gonna do it. I looked it up, others can do the same,
I have helped a lot of new reloaders here, but to many these days just want a load and not understand anything (PS: I posted the old thread)"Just started reloading, whats the best powder and how much for Whiz Bang bullets in the 45 ACP?"
Which is why many like the LEE manual. It is full of load data not specific to brand. But that data came from elsewhere People should read the first chapters by Richard Lee and learn something.
All data sources will vary. Different date, test, bullet. phase of the moon yada yada,
Most Hornady data and Hodgdons powder with same bullet will be pretty close
Hornady data is perhaps more conservative than say Lyman or Speer.
For the same weight and STYLE of bullet the slight variations will not matter.
J. R. WEEMS
Member
Brass
I used to but after 40 years I sold the gun.. Still have a 'almost' 2000 round box of NEW Remington brass.??
Count on me picking up my brass !
I used to but after 40 years I sold the gun.. Still have a 'almost' 2000 round box of NEW Remington brass.??
noylj
Member
Dillon has a cheat sheet that shows what components are in each cartridge conversion kit, so you can determine if you already have the needed components or not.
You will have to buy .38 Super dies.
You will have to buy .38 Super dies.
El Biblioitecario
Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2003
- Messages
- 471
- Reaction score
- 551
My thought exactly. Moving the powder measure is relatively easy, particularly if one has dedicated tools head for specific calibers, each with a pre-adjusted drop tube. I also have several adjustable measuring bars preset for my most-used charges; it is a simple matter to put install these.
Some folks consider that and adjusting dies to be a "lot of work"
I am lazy but not that bad. I admit I have separate 38 special and 357 Mag dies.
