I am in the market for a 3913 of the type with the tapered dust cover and single side decocker. During the search I have noticed that some slide release levers are trimmer. That is, they appear not to stick out as far as most 3rd generation pistols. Some of the custom work I have done in the past has included filing down the slide release levers. The question, did Smith provide trimmer slide release levers on some pistols? Also, the 3913's with black hammer and trigger seem to have the larger slide release levers and the pistols with silver trigger and hammer seem to have the slimmer slide release levers. Is one better than an other?
3913 question
- Thread starter mitchjt
- Start date
I have both...and have been cc 3913/14s since 1990...including the NL ( Non-Ladysmith) model you are looking for.............. great guns and great concealed carry guns!!!!!!
The difference is a "couple" of millimeters at most ....... even the duel decocker isn't going to make you "print" so that everyone knows you are carrying.
It's even easier to CC today than in 1990.... with all the electronic devices and phones folks are carrying on their belts....... " Is that your I-phone, your colostomy bag or are you just happy to see me?"
Worry more about a good belt and holster.
The difference is a "couple" of millimeters at most ....... even the duel decocker isn't going to make you "print" so that everyone knows you are carrying.
It's even easier to CC today than in 1990.... with all the electronic devices and phones folks are carrying on their belts....... " Is that your I-phone, your colostomy bag or are you just happy to see me?"
Worry more about a good belt and holster.
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Poor photos
Apparently this was not used very long.
The later style, like on this pistol, seemed to be more popular. This is easier to engage than the flatter style lever.
I agree, I have never seen the trim slide release levers on guns with black hammers and triggers. I believe this was a early production thing done to the flash chromed parts.
Apparently this was not used very long.
The later style, like on this pistol, seemed to be more popular. This is easier to engage than the flatter style lever.
I agree, I have never seen the trim slide release levers on guns with black hammers and triggers. I believe this was a early production thing done to the flash chromed parts.
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Interesting ........ My PC Shorty 9/ Non-6906 from 1995 (VPC00xx) (actually no Model markings at all on the gun) reverse two-tone........ has the narrower slide release in blue....blue trigger, slide release, slide and hammer..........
as does my "early" TJCxxxx 1991 3913NL but in "stainless"/flash chrome.......
as does my 3914 (TECxxxx). Here's a puzzle; the SCS&W would put it at about 1998-1999 but the 3914 was not introduced until 1991?
as does my "early" TJCxxxx 1991 3913NL but in "stainless"/flash chrome.......
as does my 3914 (TECxxxx). Here's a puzzle; the SCS&W would put it at about 1998-1999 but the 3914 was not introduced until 1991?
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My FrankinSmith which has a 6904 frame/915 slide has the "wide" slide release. VBKxxxx or 1994 per SCS&W
Must have been an experimental thing
My old S&W 908 had the regular style slide release, as did the one my brother now owns.
I looked back a bit...look at the slide release on my old S&W 469, it is trimmed.
My S&W CS9 had the regular release.
My old S&W 908 had the regular style slide release, as did the one my brother now owns.
I looked back a bit...look at the slide release on my old S&W 469, it is trimmed.
My S&W CS9 had the regular release.
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Good info here. I always thought that the flatter slide stop levers I've seen had been modified by previous owners, no idea that the better executed ones were probably factory. I have a flat one on my 3914 that looks to be factory, has a good bluing and sharp lines.
I modified the larger slide stop on my 6904, but since then have just left the others as-is, and I honestly notice no difference with carrying between the two types.
I modified the larger slide stop on my 6904, but since then have just left the others as-is, and I honestly notice no difference with carrying between the two types.
nocents
Member
my 3rd. gens that have forged parts (6906,3913) have the flatter controls....the mim part guns (3913NL,4516-2,4506-1) have the fuller profile....and if you can feel the difference between the two when you cc.....you need more padding(fat)
18DAI
Absent Comrade
The early 3913's with silver hammer and trigger and early 3914's, all had the flat on the slide stop and the "thinned" decocker paddles.
IIRC Most of the early 3913LS did too. All the 3914NL's had them as well.
The flat slide stop and thinned decockers went away at the same time. 1992-1993.....?
I've never seen a 908 with them. I do find the flat slide stop to work well with fitted 39XX sries holsters. Regards 18DAI
IIRC Most of the early 3913LS did too. All the 3914NL's had them as well.
The flat slide stop and thinned decockers went away at the same time. 1992-1993.....?
I've never seen a 908 with them. I do find the flat slide stop to work well with fitted 39XX sries holsters. Regards 18DAI
cpeblue
Member
cpeblue
Member
Well now, this is interesting. Your post and picture inspired me to look at my 3rd generation compacts.
3914NL Same as your 3913.
Early 3913 Thinner (four step) safety/decocker levers
Later 3913 Wider (five step) safety/decocker lever
Non MIM 6906 left side four step decocker/safety, right side five step decocker/safety.
3913TSW (pre rail, MIM) five step decocker/safety levers on both sides.
None except the 3914NL have the beveled slide stop.
Since the 3913TSW is my most commonly carried 3rd gen for self defense I'd love to have the four step decocker/safety and beveled slide stop to make it fit into the holster just that much better.
It might be worth talking to a local gunsmith about modifying the parts. The early 3913 has a thinner (two step) slide stop, but not a bevel. I've already made that swap with the 3913 (three step) slide stop. I probably wouldn't worry about having the bevel added. Which means that I'd just have to find a shop willing to take the safety/decocker off, narrow the levers, and reassemble.
3914NL Same as your 3913.
Early 3913 Thinner (four step) safety/decocker levers
Later 3913 Wider (five step) safety/decocker lever
Non MIM 6906 left side four step decocker/safety, right side five step decocker/safety.
3913TSW (pre rail, MIM) five step decocker/safety levers on both sides.
None except the 3914NL have the beveled slide stop.
Since the 3913TSW is my most commonly carried 3rd gen for self defense I'd love to have the four step decocker/safety and beveled slide stop to make it fit into the holster just that much better.
It might be worth talking to a local gunsmith about modifying the parts. The early 3913 has a thinner (two step) slide stop, but not a bevel. I've already made that swap with the 3913 (three step) slide stop. I probably wouldn't worry about having the bevel added. Which means that I'd just have to find a shop willing to take the safety/decocker off, narrow the levers, and reassemble.
cpeblue
Member
All I would need would be the file. Well, that and the courage to disassemble the safety/decocker. I've watched a couple of slide disassembly videos, but it's unclear to me if the sights and the springs under them have to come out to remove the safety/decocker.
The sights and springs don't need to come out when removing the manual safety body. You'll want to remove the right lever by pushing a pin in the hole to depress the plunger, then slide it off. With the lever on 'Fire,' depress the firing pin stop plunger on the bottom of the slide (metal one under the sights), and hold it there while you push the firing pin in as far as it will go. Release the plunger and it will hold the firing pin in. Then you just have to work the safety body out of the slide to the left, using something to push the firing pin in a bit to get it past. Good idea to do this part inside of a big Ziplock bag in case the safety body plunger&spring go flying.
Thanks! Of course you mean "when" the plunger and spring go flying. At least that's what happened assembling my AR lowers.
I've used the large ziploc bag trick when I was working on my 642. I removed the sideplate to replace the rebound spring and saved myself a lot of aggravation.
Any thoughts on the type of file? I might just do this one myself.
I've used the large ziploc bag trick when I was working on my 642. I removed the sideplate to replace the rebound spring and saved myself a lot of aggravation.
Any thoughts on the type of file? I might just do this one myself.
No worries Gary! And 'when' is definitely more appropriate than 'if' for sure.
I'd say do this one yourself too, and any file should work fine. A nice Nicholson tool file, med-small, and double cut will work faster. If you have a diamond stone for knife sharpening (without the cutout holes), it will work nice to smooth the surface out when you're done, as well as some sandpaper.
I'd say do this one yourself too, and any file should work fine. A nice Nicholson tool file, med-small, and double cut will work faster. If you have a diamond stone for knife sharpening (without the cutout holes), it will work nice to smooth the surface out when you're done, as well as some sandpaper.
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I ordered a file on Amazon. 400 grit, which should be fine as long as I'm careful and patient. I have pine scrap around the house as well. I'm going to pick up some fine Scotch Brite pads for my 64-6 sideplate project, so I'll use that for finish work.
I've done a bit of filing on a Marlin lever action, so I know it's file, file, stop, check fit, file file some more, check fit...
Besides the cold winter is coming, so this will be a good project.
I've done a bit of filing on a Marlin lever action, so I know it's file, file, stop, check fit, file file some more, check fit...
Besides the cold winter is coming, so this will be a good project.
No worries Gary! And 'when' is definitely more appropriate than 'if' for sure.
I'd say do this one yourself too, and any file should work fine. A nice Nicholson tool file, med-small, and double cut will work faster. If you have a diamond stone for knife sharpening (without the cutout holes), it will work nice to smooth the surface out when you're done, as well as some sandpaper.
3914
The SCSW says the 3914 was produced 1990-1996, however my 3914 was produced in Oct-1989. It has the old style levers.
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3914 box label
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The SCSW says the 3914 was produced 1990-1996, however my 3914 was produced in Oct-1989. It has the old style levers.
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3914 box label
.
nocents
Member
did you put the bevel on the slide stop??....I pulled mine out to check and none are like that.....it is nicely done
18DAI
Absent Comrade
My NIB 3914, TEC serial prefix is a 1989 production piece.
My "prototype" 3914 - according to the SCSW - actually more of a pre-production model, was minted in 1989 as well.
I'm told by those who would know that there were prototypes of both 3913's and 3914's being evaluated well before 1988. Regards 18DAI
My "prototype" 3914 - according to the SCSW - actually more of a pre-production model, was minted in 1989 as well.
I'm told by those who would know that there were prototypes of both 3913's and 3914's being evaluated well before 1988. Regards 18DAI
cpeblue
Member
did you put the bevel on the slide stop??....I pulled mine out to check and none are like that.....it is nicely done
The slide stop is as it left the mother ship. I bought it new and it was my first 9mm. FWIW it has been totally reliable for tens of thousands of rounds with the only broken part being a firing pin spring.
cpeblue
Member
Sounds like your set Gary! And with something like this, if the flat is a bit off or something, it will only be cosmetic so not as big of a deal as a fitted part mod. Kind of take some pressure off IMO.
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