3953TSW (rail) question

[justsumstuff]

I bought a 3953TSW with a rail. It appears to be attached by rivets & it is the same color as the slide, which is different from the frame. I was looking at one listed on website for sale & it occurred to me that most of what I see doesn't not have a rail. Also, many pistol frames & slides are the same "color". From what information I have gathered, the frames on these are alloy. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I remember reading a post question about getting a rail removed, but I can't find it nor an answer. So, what is the advantage of the rail & would it be worth it to remove it? Does the rail add or detract value? I bought the gun because I have small hands & it just felt "right" when I was handling it in the store. Thanks in advance!

 

[XAVMECH]

For me, the rail doesn't make that much sense for a compact pistol that will be used for concealed carry. For a larger, "bedroom - home defense" piece, that's a different story. That said, and with the choices limited WRT 3913/3953 and siblings, getting rid of an unwanted rail is a choice some of us might need to make. The frame on your pistol is alloy, and the rivets are likely alloy as well (though that doesn't really matter for this conversation. Collector value aside, and purely from a functional point of view, you can drill out the rivets to remove the rail. The holes can be refilled with aircraft aluminum alloy rivets. Since you're simply filling the holes, you can "double-flush" rivet the holes with AN426A-X-X counter sunk rivets. "A" rivets are non-structural, and are softer, more conformal. They'll fill the holes without stressing the frame. The frame will have to be prepared after the rail is removed, by lightly countersinking both sides of the hole. Once the rivets are set, excess material can be removed by the use of a die-grinder, or dremel. Use only aluminum oxide abrasive material. The frame can then be bead blasted and refinished. I know what I've just said seems pretty "matter-of-fact" and probably wouldn't be something you'd want to try without experimenting on some samples. AND, you could alway have S&W remove the rail, as well. I have no idea of their process, or whether they close the holes..... Just my 2 cents worth - and probably what I'm going to do if the 3913/53 that I buy has a rail.

 

[Matt C.]

Thought about removing the rail several times but when I snap the light on and put it on the bedstand its nice to know its operation only entails the use of one hand. As far as CCW, I carry my light seperately.

 

[Squibb]

Whatever works for you, however I'd go looking for a 3913 NL, before removing the rail. There is so little difference, to me, in the handling of the two, that it's a moot point. Of course, this situation gives you a perfect reason to go looking for a 908; kind of a cake and eat it too thingy.

 

[justsumstuff]

Thanks!

Thanks guys! Never imagined I'd get such detailed info!
One more question though to Matt C. What holster do you use for CCW?

 

[Matt C.]

Thanks guys! Never imagined I'd get such detailed info!
One more question though to Matt C. What holster do you use for CCW?

Bulman Leather
(Kramer also makes a holster to accomodate a rail)

 

[SW CQB 45]

Anytime you make semi permanent changes to a factory config....you usually affect value. The rivets can be easily drilled out and the rail removed and order a couple sets of factory rivets to either return the rail on the frame and or utilize the rivets to cover the holes in the frame.

Or just leave the holes open and if someone asks...tell them they are exhaust holes to relieve pressures built up by the recoil spring ;-)

Or JB weld closely matches anodized sw frames and patch the holes.

So many options....of couse some affect value.

I suggest shoot the gun....see if its for you. If you like and going to keep and the rail which only serves as a light or laser hanger is not needed....then remove.

I once had a 3913tsw converted dao with the rail removed but still part of the package. I sold it to get $$$$ for something as I had a cs9d. It was a nice gun but did need 2 of similar and went with the smaller gun.

Shoot away!!!!!!!

 

[justsumstuff]

Thanks!

I can't get any better info & advice! Glad I joined this forum. I shot the 3953tsw. I hit better than my new (2008) m&p9c. Not sure why. I do best with my .38 snubbie. My other half asked me which one I'm getting rid of ~ he said I surely don't need 2 9mm. Personally, I like both, & after reading this forum, I think I'll keep both. Again, thanks for all you input!

 

[UCLALAW]

Just when you think you have the rail/no rail thing figured out you see something like this:

 

[mlk18]

California Highway Patrol: Keeping the S&W 3rd Gen alive. Thanks CHP! I am looking forward to when you force S&W to make a new series of S&W 4th Gens and putting these guns up for sale as police trade-ins! I will get in line now.

 

[justsumstuff]

question about finishes on 3953

I was in the store the other day where I bought my 3953 last year. They had gotten a new batch of used LE pistols in. There was one that the serial no. was 10 digits later than my gun. I thought that was weird.
The finish on this gun & mine weren't the same. My pistol looks like it has something over the alloy. It is smoother to the touch, but also a different color.
Any idea of why the finishes are different on 2 pistols so close in serial number?
Thanks.

 

[ladder13]

Got any pics? Perhaps the frame was coated?