I own 4 S&W but nothing in 40, I do how ever own a Glock 22 in 40 S&W, which is hard on brass, because of the unsupported barrel issue, I know most all auto's have unsupported barrels, some much more than others, the Glock being the biggest offender. I needed the Redding G-RX die to even reload once fired 40 brass, and then I am careful to keep my re- loads of this brass to light loads and inspect the fired brass more carefully than most other brass. But for any of you that own a S&W in 40. Do you find the need of the G-RX die or the Lee Bulge buster die, necessary with brass fired in your S&W in this caliber ?
40 S&W and Glocked brass
- Thread starter hornady
- Start date
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New .40 cartridges fired in my Sigma .40 and Browning HP .40 resize normally in Dillon dies and produce reloads that drop into a .40 S&W cartridge gauge.
Now, the range trash I pick up after a match is a different matter.
Now, the range trash I pick up after a match is a different matter.
I do believe there was thread on this and if I can recall, the SW MP 40 is a fully supported chamber and you would not have any issues with the brass.Do a search and I am sure you can find it. I even think the Sigma barrel was/is supported. If you have the money and do not want to hassle with the Glock 40 you can get a aftermarket barrel for around $100.
David Sinko
Member
I put many rounds through a Glock 35 that lived on a diet of range brass. I loaded both Major and Minor Power Factor using 180 gr. plated bullets. I never had any problems with my brass. I used the EGW U Die which is far more important than using the Lee Factory Crimp Die. If you are going to shoot the matches you should never have any trouble. I never tried to load it hot as I am no fan of the .40 S&W for defensive applications.
Dave Sinko
Dave Sinko
TSQUARED
Member
I only reload 40 S&W brass which has been shot in Glock's ONE time unless it is used in revolver loads. In 40 S&W I shoot a CZ-40B, STI Trojan, PO16-40, Sig 229, and a S&W 646 revolver. In all cases I limit my reloads to four prior to consigning the brass to the scrap heap. The normal Lee carbide die removes the bulge for me and produces quality reloads.
I bought a Storm Lake barrel for my G30 (.45 ACP) specifically for shooting reloads. In comparing the two, the Glock barrel actually has slightly more support in the ramp area, but the case-to-chamber fit is slightly looser. I use any range brass I can pick up except for CBC headstamp, which is usually split or starting to.
Cannot speak for the .40 as far as aftermarket support.
tsquared...I too use a Cz40B...not many of us around. Like you, my Dillon dies do all that I ask of them. I use all the range brass I can pick up and have yet to count the number of times it has been reloaded. So far no problems. I don't feel the need to purchase a separate sizing die.
Randy
Randy
VAdoublegunner
Member
I've been shooting and handloading 40S&W since 1990 when I bought a new 4006, but don't (won't) own any Glocks in it. However, I have picked up a lot of range brass over the years that was fired in Glocks.
My current 40s include a S&W 4053, HK USP-c and f, and a Ruger Vaquero (the 4006 is gone now). I've been loading on the same RCBS carbide die set I bought in 1990. No problems with it and it has loaded at least 25K rounds (ca 10K of them used through the HKs) so I don't see any need to change now. The only problem occurred just recently where a once fired pickup from a Glock let go in my 4053. Neither the gun nor I were injured, but the case head came completely off, it split at the web, and brass was formed into the feed. Tough little gun that 4053!
I don't load high end loads in Glock fired brass, somewhere around the 90% level. For full loads I will use non-Glock brass or new stuff. I hate having to separate it and try to keep it separate (but it provides just another reason to dislike them
)
My current 40s include a S&W 4053, HK USP-c and f, and a Ruger Vaquero (the 4006 is gone now). I've been loading on the same RCBS carbide die set I bought in 1990. No problems with it and it has loaded at least 25K rounds (ca 10K of them used through the HKs) so I don't see any need to change now. The only problem occurred just recently where a once fired pickup from a Glock let go in my 4053. Neither the gun nor I were injured, but the case head came completely off, it split at the web, and brass was formed into the feed. Tough little gun that 4053!
I don't load high end loads in Glock fired brass, somewhere around the 90% level. For full loads I will use non-Glock brass or new stuff. I hate having to separate it and try to keep it separate (but it provides just another reason to dislike them
)
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I think the Lone Wolf barrels are completely supported. The only Glock I own is a 9mm M 19. Which the barrel is fine. I had a 40 cal with night sights that I bought used but it was absolutely as new. I just did not care for the felt recoil compared to the SA XD, HK and Sig. I only shoot what I reload, so I was not going to spend the $100 for another barrel on a gun I really did not care to shoot. I have nothing against Glocks, they are excellent weapons, just do not care for them.
I bought a 1000 pieces of 40 BRASS TO FEED MY 4006. found 8 odd headstamps in the batch. So I used them to adjust dies and work up a load. Loaded them 22 times. Only quite because my near full power loads had beat the rims out and they were difficult to put in the shellholder.
fourrobert13
Member
My once fired brass is loaded as usual. Any thing I buy or pickup that is not mine gets run through the Redding GRX die. I probably don't even need to do it, but I can't see it hurting not to. I load minor PF for IDPA, so none of my stuff is loaded hot.
I don't know how old your G22 is, but I can not see any difference between my Sigma 40 cal barrel and the one in my G22 RTF2, purchased new back in May of this year. I have not reloaded for these...yet. But I will. And I will load target loads only and start out with the Sigma barrel, as there have been no reports of problems with them.
The Sigma barrel is on the left and top in the pictures.
The Sigma barrel is on the left and top in the pictures.
Beans
Member
I shoot IDPA with a Glock 35 (.40 S&W) I pick up range brass and load them all on my Dillon 650 using Dillon Dies. If the dies are adjusted correctly there shouldn't be any problem.
However I don't shoot Max loaded rounds.
When I first started loading the .40 S&W I purchased a EUD dies and used it. Changing over from the dies I was using to the Dillon Dies elimated the need for the EUD die.
I just use the brass until I lose them at the range or shoot at a lost brass shoot.
However I don't shoot Max loaded rounds.
When I first started loading the .40 S&W I purchased a EUD dies and used it. Changing over from the dies I was using to the Dillon Dies elimated the need for the EUD die.
I just use the brass until I lose them at the range or shoot at a lost brass shoot.
elfego baca
Member
I have had a Glock 22, 23, and now have a 35. So far i have had no problems with bulged cases in my 40s.
I did go to a Dillon die set to eliminate depriming failures when using Speer brass.
I did go to a Dillon die set to eliminate depriming failures when using Speer brass.
