44 Russian Smith & Wesson Peanut Mold

BMur

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Well I finally found one. Many years searching!!
The “Improved Model” post 1886 44 Russian Peanut Bullet Mold. Manufactured by Smith & Wesson beginning in 1887- Approximately 1912.
Usually as part of a reloading boxed kit with reloading tools and Mallet.
These are pretty hard to find. This one has matching assembly numbers and is in wonderful overall condition.

Anyone else have one in their collection? Maybe they can post a photo of?

Murph
 

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looks like the wood has been replaced
 
Replaced wood scales

iby,
Do you collect these?
I’ve been collecting them for over 40 years and I’ve never seen replacement wood scales. They would be difficult to manufacture since they are fit to each tool. The fit shown in my first set of photos is impeccable.
Here are a few photos of the wood off the iron.

Murph
 

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Tool operation

This tool was part of the improved kit manufactured by Smith & Wesson begining in 1887. It will reprime the case and mold two type bullets. The 246 grain round nose heavy and the Gallery ball for indoor shooting.

See photos

Murph
 

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Something new

Bruce,
Just when you think you’ve seen it all something new shows up. I’ve never seen a double spru 4 cavity ball mold in the S&W design. Amazing.

I was wondering if there was a transition from the double lube groove round nose 44 that both yours and my mold have to the 1898ish Triple lube groove bullet? Have you ever seen one?

See photos.

The first photo was the transitional bullet introduced in about 1887 with the improved kit that introduced inside lubrication.
It’s also seen in early Ideal molds and early Winchester molds.

Second photo is the last bullet design for the 44 Russian introduced in about 1898ish until it was replaced with the 44 Special bullet design.

I have a Winchester wood handle mold with the Triple lube groove stamped 44 RUSS.

Question: The peanut mold was sold until about 1912. Did it see that transitional bullet? I think it must have. Must also be a very rare item.

Murph
 

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Interesting mold and tools. If some one did a tutorial on how they where used to reload a round that would be interesting. Hint hint

One of the guys that I shoot big bore black powder single shot rifles with has a set of tools for field reloading for his Sharps 45-70.
 
Instructions

I recommend anyone interested in learning how to use a field kit just pull up a You Tube video of using a Lee Loader. They are basically copying these antique original field hand loading kits originating from the 1870’s.

The photo’s depict what a frontier pioneer would have needed in the field to reload their firearm.

Loading die
Plunger
Primer punch
Base
Mold with re-primer
Flask full of black powder
Tin filled with primers
Ingot of lead/tin
Powder scoop
Melting the lead would be performed in a cooking pot.
Heating the bullet mold would be done by setting the mold on a rock next to the camp fire.

Leather gloves would’ve been part of standard supplies on the frontier. Also leather patches used to pick up hot pans for cooking.
Including lard for cooking would be excellent for bullet lubricant. perhaps even wheel grease for wagon or buggy, wood for a mallet can be found lying on the ground if needed. No need to carry it.

All of these items weighs less than 2lbs and would fit in a sock or sack. The lead would be how much the individual wanted to carry.
1lb of lead translates to 7000 grains of bullet weight. Or;

90 grain 32’s = 78 rounds per pound
146 grain 38’s= 48 rounds per pound
246 grain 44’s= 29 rounds per pound

The real benefit to reloading was two fold. Much lower cost and fresh ammo once loaded or reloaded!

Murph
 

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When I started loading/bullet casting, I used an empty Tuna can as my lead pot (free) and a used Lee bullet mold ($5) along with my Lee Loader (new $12), 100 LR primers ($.99), a can of IMR 3031 ($5.99), candle wax bullet lube (free) and started loading 303 British on the basement floor in 1979.

My carpenter's hammer for a mallet. You pounded the sized and empty case onto the primer. The first time a primer detonated (about the 5th case), I almost peed my pants. Since 1979 I have had a total of 4 primers detonate in about 1/2 million rounds loaded, you have to really work at it! and apparently, I was a little ham handed!

Ivan
 
Bruce,
Just when you think you’ve seen it all something new shows up. I’ve never seen a double spru 4 cavity ball mold in the S&W design. Amazing.

I was wondering if there was a transition from the double lube groove round nose 44 that both yours and my mold have to the 1898ish Triple lube groove bullet? Have you ever seen one?

See photos.

The first photo was the transitional bullet introduced in about 1887 with the improved kit that introduced inside lubrication.
It’s also seen in early Ideal molds and early Winchester molds.

Second photo is the last bullet design for the 44 Russian introduced in about 1898ish until it was replaced with the 44 Special bullet design.

I have a Winchester wood handle mold with the Triple lube groove stamped 44 RUSS.

Question: The peanut mold was sold until about 1912. Did it see that transitional bullet? I think it must have. Must also be a very rare item.

Murph

I'm sure you are aware, but there may be others reading here who are not, but the third groove in Ideal's No.429251 was NOT for lubrication. Rather, it was for crimping the bullet into the case and preventing the bullet... when loaded over a charge of smokeless powder... from receding into the case. See image below from Ideal Handbook No.17 (1906). With a case full of black powder, the bullet (No.429184 or its S&W twin) would be firmly seated on top of the powder charge and the case crimped over the forward driving band. With the markedly smaller charges of dense smokeless powder (such as Bullseye), the base of the bullet would no longer be supported and the bullet could, and frequently would, recede into the cartridge case. Ammunition companies got around this by placing a cannelure or indented groove in the case at the base of the bullet to provide support.


Ideal (later Lyman) No.429251 was introduced as the "standard" bullet for .44 Russian in 1904 (Ideal Handbook No.16) and remained in Ideal and later Lyman catalogs until 1960. From c.1887/8 until 1904, No.429184 was their "standard" bullet for .44 Russian. In 1914, when Ideal was under Marlin ownership, bullet No.429383 was introduced as the new "standard" for .44 Special.

Jim
 

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Smokeless bullet

Thanks Jim,

I actually was not aware that design was introduced as a smokeless bullet that late.

I guess that eliminates it from being part of the peanut mold production. These tools and kits were exclusively for black powder.
I’ve never seen or heard of any smokeless kits prior to the 1920’s.

This bullet design introduced I assume by Ideal as a smokeless bullet for the 44 Russian in 1904 was a bold move to say the least.

Even Ideal tools came exclusively with black powder scoops up to and including when Ideal/Lyman moved to Middlefield in the mid 1920’s.

The question would be why did Ideal tools come with black powder scoops in 1904 when this manual clearly states the use of early smokeless powder? Even an early form of Bullseye powder. A tool having this bullet would come with a black powder scoop exclusively.

Even the Antique Reloading Tool Collectors Association lists no smokeless powder scoops. A very interesting contradiction.

Murph
 
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An interesting contradiction, indeed. Even more so when it is realized that while the reloading tool manufacturers seemed reluctant to furnish powder dippers for smokeless, the powder manufacturers apparently had no reservations providing them.

Jim
 
Anyone else notice that the wooden handles on these S&W moulds always look impossibly new, as if they've never been used despite their more than 100+ years existence?

Jim
 
I’ve had Winchester & Ideal combination loading tools. Only one I tried was 25/20 Win. I’ve had countless Lee Loaders and tong tools. Cant recall ever using them. Got house broke on bench presses way back in 60s. Matter of fact still use a Rock Chucker. I started with a Lyman, didn’t wear it out, I broke cast over doing torque putting it on new bench.
 
Wood scales

Anyone else notice that the wooden handles on these S&W moulds always look impossibly new, as if they've never been used despite their more than 100+ years existence?

Jim

I might sound like a S&W purist but the peanut molds were the best molds made!

The reason the wood stays in such good shape is due to the design allows only partial contact with the hot iron. You’ll notice the wood scale only contacts one side of each handle. Which prevents overheating of the wood and avoids cracking. Extremely well designed. My personal favorite mold design.

Murph
 
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