442 problem....any suggestions

[3502dav]

Hi,

I just purchased a 442 earlier this week. I just went to the range for the first time and put some .38 American eagle rounds through the gun. After 30 rounds or so I noticed the cylinder would not close all the way. Then I would close it but the cylinder completely locked up. I also noticed what looked to be a "burr" mark just below the barrel where the cylinder meets the frame.

Below are the two photos I took. Has anyone seen this before? I took the gun home and played around with it and it seems ok. I just don't trust it at this point and I am afraid to stake my life on it.
Thanks.

Dave


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[Hapworth]

Definitely a rub spot; might indicate poor fitting at the location, or the mild binding you're experiencing could be caused somewhere else on the revolver and you're getting indirect wear on the frame portion pictured.

Common cylinder bind causes include:

- Slightly unscrewed extractor rods (these are reverse threaded, so counterclockwise tightens; if you try to tighten it, but some empty cases in the cylinder to protect the ratchet and do not use pliers -- they'll wreck the rod; just go by hand and see if it tightens some).

- Dirt or grime, especially under the ejector star.

- Burrs on the ratchets or the blast plate.

Give it a good cleaning and thorough looking over and report back.

 

[Hapworth]

P.S. -- Just saw this was your first post. Welcome to the forum.

Sorry what brings you here is a potential problem, but either some advice from fellow members or a quick warranty trip back to S&W will get it squared.

You are right, though, do not rotate that revolver into defense line-up until it is running with complete reliability.

 

[66L]

I experienced the exact same thing with a brand new 642-1 about a year ago. At best it was an eyesore; at worst it became exceptionally difficult to close the cylinder when it got dirty, and continued to worsen. I ultimately sold the gun because it was so unpleasant to shoot. If you want to keep the gun sending it back to S&W will be your only realistic option.

 

[shouldazagged]

Welcome from Louisville. I hope you'll get your problem sorted out and stick with us here.

 

[exdetsgt]

I have a 642-1 that runs as it should. When I saw your photos I took a look at mine and sure enough, there was a similar mark. Not as pronounced and more difficult to notice as it is a stainless frame. However, cylinder opens and closes smoothly and lock up is good. I'll monitor it and see if anything develops.

 

[JAREDSHS]

don't panic-----it is normal-----all airweights do this--------you can't prevent it-----it won't get any worse----it is just the normal wear of steel against the aluminum alloy----it is self limiting. if you cannot accept this do not purchase an airweight OR don't ever open up a brand new airweight. I have owned 12 assorted 642-638-637-442 and 438 firearms and they ALL look like yours. they are excellent weapons. there is absolutely nothing wrong with yours---go shooing.

 

[kaaskop49]

don't panic-----it is normal-----all airweights do this--------you can't prevent it-----it won't get any worse----it is just the normal wear of steel against the aluminum alloy----it is self limiting. if you cannot accept this do not purchase an airweight OR don't ever open up a brand new airweight. I have owned 12 assorted 642-638-637-442 and 438 firearms and they ALL look like yours. they are excellent weapons. there is absolutely nothing wrong with yours---go shooing.

Hey partner, I'm missing something here. The OP has problems opening an closing the cylinder, and there is absolutely nothing wrong? Stay safe.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[Hapworth]

don't panic-----it is normal-----all airweights do this--------you can't prevent it-----it won't get any worse----it is just the normal wear of steel against the aluminum alloy----it is self limiting. if you cannot accept this do not purchase an airweight OR don't ever open up a brand new airweight. I have owned 12 assorted 642-638-637-442 and 438 firearms and they ALL look like yours. they are excellent weapons. there is absolutely nothing wrong with yours---go shooing.

Cosmetically speaking, yes -- but the binding issue OP reports, which may or may not be related to the burnished frame mark in the picture, is serious and has to be addressed and resolved, and the 442 needs to be benched until it is.

 

[GaryS]

Not speaking for JAREDSHS, but I think he might have meant to say that the "marring" is not the cause of the problem. My 642-1 (2012) has the same mark and fires fine. That's caused by the gas ring fitting against the frame.

I would check the ejector rod tightness, as that's a frequent issue with J frames.

The other thing I'd check would be the center pin of the extractor. It's spring loaded and mine is stiff so it sometimes takes extra pressure to get the cylinder to close.

Hey partner, I'm missing something here. The OP has problems opening an closing the cylinder, and there is absolutely nothing wrong? Stay safe.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[JAREDSHS]

3502dav---
I stand by my view that nothing is "wrong" with your new 442. Try a little over generous application of gun oil on any part that turns or rubs for a short while until parts mate with each other. you yourself said it seemed ok after you go home. An airweight will never seem as slick and smooth as an all steel gun. My wife carries a 637 and I have a 642 in my jeans pocket 24/7/7. I love the airweight series---you just have to be a little tolerant
to the issues of finish durability and the smoothness that exists only in the steel J frames.
but I am just a 78 year old fart--what do I know??

Oh-- and welcome to the forum--pretty good place to be,

 

[3502dav]

Thanks for the quick responses. I apologize for not introducing myself. I'm a bit disappointed with my first experience with the revolver. I think I'm going to play it safe and send it back to S&W. I plan on using the gun as a back up at work. It's got to be 100%.


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[JAREDSHS]

can't fault you for that . good luck to you-and stay safe.

 

[exdetsgt]

Jaredshs, first, your observation that the mark is a function of steel rubbing against an aluminum alloy made me feel better after I noticed the same marking on my 642-1, which is near-new. Second, the OP - as you noted - wrote that when he got home it "seemed OK." Could this be because the gun cooled off? Shooting 30 rounds ought to be enough to heat the cylinder and expand it, potentially causing binding if not fitted properly at the factory (I can't imagine them being unaware of such a simple fact).

I once had a snubby Rossi that would lock up the cyclinder after a couple of dozen rounds, freeze up and render the gun useless. I am no metallurgist but is there a difference in expansion rates between the two metals?

 

[Alk8944]

As has been said several tines, the wear mark on the frame is completely normal whether the gun is steel or an Airweight. Assuming the extractor rod is tight, which would first be evidenced by hard opening the cause for hard closing is usually very simple to fix. Clean the gun!

There is very little clearance in a revolver. It has to be this way to eliminate end-shake! My first guess is you are holding the gun muzzle down, lifting the cases with the extractor and then picking the cases out with your fingers. Right? When cartridges are fired a small amount of un-burned powder left in the cases. When you remove the cases as I described invariably one or more of these grains fall between the cylinder and back of the extractor which prevents the extractor from closing completely. This makes the cylinder too long to allow the gun to close.

Hold the gun muzzle up, strike the extractor rod and allow the cases to fall free of the cylinder, the un-burned powder will stay inside the case and not cause this problem.

And, always have a toothbrush when shooting a revolver, to clean between the extractor and cylinder when this happens.

 

[exdetsgt]

I did not know that but it makes sense and obviously holding the muzzle up solves the problem. And I've already got a toothbrush in my range bag. Thanks.

 

[GaryS]

I once had a snubby Rossi that would lock up the cyclinder after a couple of dozen rounds, freeze up and render the gun useless. I am no metallurgist but is there a difference in expansion rates between the two metals?

I think the explanation could be that it was a Rossi. Just sayin'.

 

[exdetsgt]

GaryS, you nailed it.

 

[HarrishMasher]

The wear mark is 100% normal. I have 8 J Frame airweights and they all have that mark from day one of shooting.

As far as your problem. Make sure you clean the gun real well and lube it. S&W sends their guns our extremely dry. Google "how to lube a revolver". If that does not help, send it back to S&W. Call them and they will pay shipping both ways and the repair is on them. It will take about 4 weeks door to door. And they ship it directly back to you. You don't have to go through an FFL again.

 

[Edknn123]

While taking CPL my class, we had to fire 100 rounds. About 75 rounds in, my 442 was getting pretty hot and the cylinder would not lock closed and trigger would not move. The instructors couldn't find any problem. If I played with it, I could get it to fire, but after reloading, the problem would reoccur. Turns out residue formed under the extractor. After cleaning, problem never came back, but it took awhile to regain confidence in it. 600 rounds later, it's been flawless.