I have been loading .45 ACP revolvers since "forever"! I did serious IPSC competition with .45 ACP in 1911's in the sixties and seventies (loading tens of thousands).
I have loaded on single stages, turret presses, and for many years, Dillon 550's (I have two).
You can make it as easy or as complicated as you want to.
Me, I favor, EASY!
I load the same target load, these days, for both 1911's and my revolvers:
Mihec true copy of the H&G #68/69 (200 gr. home cast swc), ahead of
4.0 grs. of Bullseye or equivalent, using a 1911 barrel as a gauge to set the overall length of the round to headspace on the bullet ("plunk" the round into the chamber, making sure the base of the case is even with the barrel hood).
Using my Dillon press, I use the Lee four die set, with the factory crimp die.
NOTE: I ALWAYS (whether it is a single stage, turret press, or progressive press) seat and crimp separately. THIS IS IMPORTANT. I taper crimp in the .45 ACP so the mouth of the loaded round has an outside diameter of .470" with my bullets sized to .452".
The load is the exact same load for the revolvers (I mostly shoot revolvers these days). My revolvers all take .452" sized bullets. The cylinder throats are correctly dimensioned for this, whether it is a Ruger Bisley SS .45 ACP/.45 Colt convertible, my 625's.
The Lee factory crimp die for .45 ACP comes with a TC insert. Lee will sell you an extra roll crimp insert. You MUST also, buy the necessary spacer (the inserts differ in height). I have had mine for a long time, but, as I remember, the cost was nominal (about $7.50 as I remember).
In my revolvers, when I shoot ACP cases and I ALWAYS use the moonclips. For serious use, it is steel full moon clips (Ranch Products). Often, for casual use, I use the polycarbonate RIMZ full moon clips (they load cartridges easily without tools). The steel clips require tools (I use a knockoff of the "original moon clip tool" to load and a Brownell screw driver type to unload the clips).
I bought a thousand Starline .45 Auto Rim cases (they ship free). The price is VERY favorable. However, they only sell in minimum quantities of 500. That sure didn't deter me, as I shoot a lot.
NOTE on cases:
1-After a 100 years or so after they using large pistol primers for the
.45 ACP, the manufacturers changed to small pistol primers with a
different formula to increase safety in indoor ranges (lead free
formula). So, now, when you buy or obtain used brass, be extremely
careful to sort carefully. A small primer case in a progressive when you
are set up for large primers can cause a serious problem or two. So,
PAY ATTENTION when sorting...
2-Case wall on cases differ in thickness. This can be VERY important
(too thin cases reduce bullet pull and can allow the bullet to deep
seat when feeding in a 1911 causing a jam or increasing pressure
due to decreased powder room). Starline cases are great for both
ACP and Auto Rim regarding case wall thickness. I bought a great
quantity of once fired large primer military cases "back in the day"
so my ACP cases were uniform and available (the price was VERY
favorable as it was surplus material).
Loading .45 AUTO rim takes a different shell plate or shell holder (of
course). I simply wait until I have several hundred empties on hand
{whether ACP or Auto rim, so it makes it worthwhile to switch over
my press for the "other" case.
I didn't plan on writing an article when I started this, but-t-t-t
FWIW
Dale53
PS: Just for the record, when needing a speedy reload using ACP's and
moonclips, bullet design is critical for slick reloading. Use either a round
nose or truncated cone bullet. My favored bullet is a Lee, 230 gr TC
home cast bullet.rdm
