460V & Shot-shells???

DrDoctor

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I’ve got a S&W 460V – fully polished with custom-made contoured black walnut grips (which due to their girth preclude the usage of any speed-loader). It’s 3¾ pounds of beautiful stainless steel. My question’s based upon a comment I heard recently.
An acquaintance suggested that I shoot rat-shot/snake-shot with this gun, as he does with his Colt .45 caliber revolver (I don’t know if it’s a SSA, or what). What with the “gap” between the barrel and the end of the compensator, I’m not sure the shot hitting the compensator’s going to do it any good. Further, I’m concerned that the rifling within the barrel will cause the shot to swirl, disbursing it and causing a “halo” effect of a majority of the shot surrounding the intended target with minimal shot actually hitting the intended target (being rabid foxes that populate the area my wife and I live in).
I’d be interested in hearing other’s comments concerning the advisability of this action. Thank you.
 
Welcome to the S&W forum.
I'm sorry I can't answer your question.

I would use a regular .45 bullet for fox rather than one loaded with shot, they use small shot in these loads and I would want it killed with the first shot like any animal I shoot.

I just checked CCI's website and they say not to use in any handgun with ported recoil compensators !
 
Shot shells in pistol calibers are built differently from shot gun shells .Shot gun shells have a plastic cup the shot sits in therefore the shot doesn’t actually touch the bore of the gun until it’s completely out if the barrel .The plastic cup in a pistol caliber shot shell breaks apart going down the barrel .Two completely different animals .Thats why you see ported shotguns all the time and why for instance a 45/410 firearm can be ported and you can use 410 shotgun shells + 45 cal pistol cartridges .In your situation I would get a pistol grip style shotgun it won’t be much larger or heavier than your 460v and way more effective than any pistol caliber shot shell .We did a lot of experimentation back in the 70s useing Contender barels and you just can’t get an effective pistol caliber shot shell past a few feet because of rifling effect mainly and if you try to derifle a barrel ( and yes that was tried ) you start running afoul of ATF regulations and rules concerning short shotguns ,rifles built like pistols ect that are very very serious violations of the law.Hope this helps.BTW Remington has come out with their 1100 in a pistol grip version I think in the January American Rifleman had a very good look at it and yes I’m getting me one as the 1100 is a great self defense platform and would be great for your stated purpose but a good pistol grip pump would work also .
 
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I may proudly be the biggest "chicken" on this forum when it comes to deviating from factory, and less of a ballistician than many here, but if the manual does not include the caliber/gage, I do not shoot it. If I want to shoot a caliber/gage, then I buy a gun designed for that caliber/gage. Better safe than sorry. I would be less concerned about the ATF than my vision and fingers. Just my concern and respectful two cents.
 
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I’m making shot shells for my 460, from 444 Marlin Mag brass. The brass comes very close to the end of the cylinder. With this case/brass, I’m able to use a plastic shot wad cup for a 2 1/2” 410 shell, and put in a full 1/2 ounce of #8 shot. The shot cup contains the shot until it exits the muzzle. But, as you questioned, the pattern does open-up pretty quickly. I would say that around 20 feet is where the shot pattern opens enough, “not” to be reliable for consistent kills on small game! The cartridge on the right, is the shotshell (444 Marlin brass)! memtb
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Shooting shoot shells is risky from comped guns.
Speer and others manufactures specifically say not too.

I personally don't want to be near anyone shooting them.

be safe
Ruggy
 
Many thanks to one and all. I DO appreciate everyone's comments. Being new to this site, and relatively new with this gun, I don't want to screw up my participation here, and I don't want to compromise the gun, or myself!!!
 
Shooting shoot shells is risky from comped guns.
Speer and others manufactures specifically say not too.

I personally don't want to be near anyone shooting them.

be safe
Ruggy

^^^Same here. I also wonder why? Just because your friend says so? Do you have a legitimate reason to shoot shot? Iffin so, Taurus public defender sell for about $350 and are actually designed to shoot shot shells..
 
I can understand the concerns/fears of shooting shot, through a “ported” firearm...especially if plastic shot capsules are used. I would expect that the shot capsules rupture prior to exiting the barrel, no longer containing the shot. This was a concern of mine as well, plus I wanted a heavier/larger shot charge....hence the reason for my project. My 410 plastic shot cup, contains the shot until it opens as it exits the muzzle.

Perhaps a simple test, to see if shot exits the ports would be in order. Obtain a fairly large ( maybe 2’x2’) cardboard box open on one end. Cut a hole in the bottom, just large enough to insert the entire handgun....so the cylinder gap “blowby” doesn’t destroy the box. The fire a few shots down range, inspecting the box after each shot, to see if any pellets exited the porting, hitting the sides of the box. It may validate your concerns, or show that it’s a safe procedure. Obviously, you wouldn’t want a bystander anywhere/anytime near ( 90 degrees), from the muzzle....for many obvious reasons.

I feel pretty darn confident with my method, much less confident with a typical (factory produced) plastic shot cup, for reasons mentioned above! memtb
 
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Matt's Bullets makes some pretty impressive 500 Mag shot shells. They carry a full 3/4oz load of 9 shot. Wish he made some with 7 1/2 shot.

As to working with a comp, they work very well in my original 8 3/8" barreled 500 mag, it's a close range load but certainly well beyond striking range of any snake.

I used to make my own shotshells out of 500 brass. Used fiber wads below the shot charge and above to seal it. They were very inconsistent, some were very potent, others flubs.

I tried to get CCI to make shot shells for the 500 but they weren't interested, said they didn't believe the sales would make up for the new tooling required.

I don't know of any commercial shotshells for the .460 but based on my experience the 45 Colt CCI cartridges should work for you. Give them a try. Don
 
Again, my thanks to all who responded to my initial query re: shooting shot-shells thru a 460V ĉ a compensator – you confirmed my impression that doing so wouldn’t be the best idea – for the gun, or for the resultant shot-pattern.
Resultant update/conclusion – my wife and I decided that using shot-shells would be less than optimal in her gun (S&W Lady Smith) as well, and for the same reason (resultant shot-pattern). So, we went to our local FFL gun store to purchase a S&W Governor – No Joy. He called his distributors (and I guess other dealers, but I’m not sure of that fact) – also No Joy. So, we purchased a 3” barreled 2⅝” cylinder Taurus Judge as a compromise. It’s a nice gun, but it “ain’t no Smith & Wesson”, which we wanted. Anyway, I polished it, but it didn’t turn out anything like the 460V did, due to the rougher finish on the Taurus. I also made some wood grips out of Kansas Black Walnut, and they’re beautiful.
Regards to one and all . . .
 

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