5 Screw Highway Patrolman Questions

[j357p]

Howdy All and Happy New Year.
I have a newly acquired Pre-Model 28, 5 screw HP and have a couple of questions for you all.
Took it out for the first time this last weekend and while it is a great gun I had a couple of small issues.
First, as I expected it to, the ejector rod likes to back out after a few rounds. This is why S&W reversed the threads on later models.
Is the fix as simple as disassembling, cleaning the threads (really good) and using LocTite? If so, is Blue the color to use?
Secondly, it did fine with lower powered loads but didn't seem to like the stout loads I have.
I handload and have fired the stout loads in 2 of my 686's and they just love them.
I'm fine with finding a sweet load for this gun, doesn't have to be a screamer.
Has anyone else experienced this? And if so, would you be willing to share your load data that you ended up with?
Thanks to all!

 

[chief38]

There are plenty of fellow members here that will suggest you use Lockite on firearms and while I do respect the opinion of others (there are many knowledgeable people on this sight), I NEVER use Locktite of any color on any guns. I have seen the use of that product create too many collateral problems at the same time you are trying to solve the original one.

What I would do is take apart the entire ejector rod assembly, thoroughly clean it with a toothbrush & your favorite solvent, and reassemble. When you tighten it, put EMPTY cartridge casings in the charge holes to keep everything from bending and twisting while being tightened. You can place a thick heavy piece of leather around the ejector rod to keep it from being damaged and turn it snug. You can either use a good pair of pliers or a vise to grab the ejector rod. After you get it snug, then tighten it up (but not Gorilla tight). 99% of the time that is all it takes to solve this problem. If it comes apart again, go slightly tighter. I have not had any problems with a loosened E/R after tightening it the way I have just described. Worst case scenario, repeat the process once again and check it when yo clean the gun.

As far as the stout loads not being "liked" buy your M28, you will have to be a bit more specific about what it doesn't like. The Model 28 was originally developed for use with 158 grain .357 mag's. and it's been my experience that they do shoot them well. Please be more specific.

Also I would make sure that the gun has been thoroughly cleaned, especially the forcing cone area. A Lewis Lead Remover tool works wonders on leaded barrels, chambers and forcing cones. Have you checked the timing and the charge hole - barrel alignment ( with a Range Rod) yet? You could also try another brand and or type of magnum load as some guns are more fussy as to what they eat.

Regards,
Chief38

 

[j357p]

As far as the stout loads not being "liked" buy your M28, you will have to be a bit more specific about what it doesn't like. The Model 28 was originally developed for use with 158 grain .357 mag's. and it's been my experience that they do shoot them well. Please be more specific.

Also I would make sure that the gun has been thoroughly cleaned, especially the forcing cone area. A Lewis Lead Remover tool works wonders on leaded barrels, chambers and forcing cones. Have you checked the timing and the charge hole - barrel alignment ( with a Range Rod) yet? You could also try another brand and or type of magnum load as some guns are more fussy as to what they eat.

Regards,
Chief38

Chief,
Thanks for the response.
I can answer your questions. The loads I used were .38 Sp with 140 gr. wadcutter on top of 3.2 grains of W231. These worked well.
Next was 158 gr, Lead SWC on 6.1 grains also W231. These worked pretty well also.
Lastly were some 158 gr. Hprnady XTP's over 16.2 grains of W296 with Win SP Magnum primers.
As I stated, the Hornady's shot well in both a 2 1/2" 686 and a 6" 686.

The gun was well cleaned before firing. I do have and use a Lewis Lead remover. Great tool and makes clean up very quick after shooting lead ammunition without gas checks.

Timing seems to be good. Cylinder locks into place prior to hammer drop.
I do not have a range rod, so that part I can not speak on.

And lastly, yes, I am well aware that some guns are particular about what they are fed which is what prompted me to ask about "pet loads" that others may have.
Thanks again for your response.

 

[chief38]

j357p

Well then all I can surmise from what you have stated is that your barrel doesn't like the Copper Jackets of the XTP for some reason. Copper has less lubricity and creates more friction going down the barrel than Lead does, and that is why the same weight and configuration of lead bullet will always have more velocity than the same exact bullet with a Copper jacket will. Your barrel may still have very sharp lands & grooves and when they are sharp they grab onto the copper jackets even more affecting he accuracy of the bullet. This is something that may change when the inside of the barrel smooths out. What would be an interesting experiment would be to use Remington, Winchester and or Federal bullets with the 158 grain copper jacketed bullets and see what the results are with them. See if you have the same problem. I do not know the specific make-up of Hornaday's bullets regarding exactly what the jackets are made from. Pure Cooper, an alloy or who knows?? If the gun shoots well with the lead bullets (which is what it was originally designed to shoot), than I would stay with them for your "target shooting". Like I said, try other brands of similar bullets and if they perform better, then you'll have your answer. If the HP shoots well with lead, try the Buffalo Bore LEAD 357's (as good or even better than the Hornaday's) and see how they shoot.


Regards,
Chief38