586 Problem & Question

MSgt G

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Folks,

A guy at my church has a 586, 4", that he's wanting to sell. The serial number is AAL6970- any idea on year of manufactor? I noticed somewhere on the internet that there was a modification that was to have been done many years ago due to cylinder binding. Anyway, I called S&W today and they told me this gun was manufactored later and the modification wasn't necessary. Is that correct? This is a 586 no dash, but the modification includes that and the -1. ** See the actual recall below if needed. **

Secondly, there's a problem with the cylinder locking in place. After closing the cylinder you have to physically pull the cylinder thumb release (I know it's called something else) to the rear to be able to either pull the trigger or cock the hammer. Sometimes you can pull it to the rear once and it's good, sometimes you have to pull it rearward each individual time you pull the trigger or cock the hammer. S&W said to clean it well. What's your answer?

Lastly, assuming the cylinder thing is an easy fix, he's wanting to sale it for $325. What do you think? The gun is in almost new condition and has been fired very little (he said a total of less than 30 times).

Here's the recall I found on the internet:

SMITH & WESSON
MODEL 581, 586, 681, 686, or 581-1,
586-1, 681-1, 686-1 & 686CS-1, REVOLVERS

RECALL: Reports have been received from the field where the combination of a SMITH & WESSON L-FRAME 357 MAGNUM REVOLVER and some .357 Magnum ammunition has resulted in unacceptable cylinder binding. L-frame revolvers bearing model numbers:

581, 586, 681, 686, or 581-1, 586-1,
681-1, 686-1, 686CS-1

Cylinder binding can cause a failure to fire. Mishandling a revolver while freeing the cylinder can result in accidental discharge.

Cylinder binding can result from a number of causes, including characteristics of an individual revolver or the use of ammunition, which does not conform to industry pressure specifications or is particularly fast burning. Recent developments in ammunition manufacture emphasize the production of .357 Magnum ammunition with increased velocity and greater primer sensitivity.

Although there have been very few reported incidents of cylinder binding, in view of our concern for our customer's safety and the reliability of Smith & Wesson products in all circumstances, we issue the following warning:

In a situation where a failure to fire can be critical - such as law enforcement or personal protection - do not use .357 Magnum ammunition with an L-frame revolver bearing model numbers 581, 586, 681, 686 or 581-1, 586-1, 681-1, 686-1, 686CS-1 without an "M" over the model number until you have had the revolver modified.

Those who need to use their L-frame revolver under these conditions prior to modification can safely fire .38 Special caliber ammunition.

Smith & Wesson has developed a modification to improve existing L-frame revolvers. This improvement enables them to fire all .357 Magnum ammunition, without cylinder binding. Shipments of L-frame revolvers from our factory after August 21, 1987 already include this improvement.

You can check if your revolver includes this improvement by looking at the left side of the frame when the cylinder is fully open. If your revolver has been stamped either with a "2" or higher number after the basic three-digit model number or with an "M" above the model number, your revolver includes this improvement and does not need modification. If your revolver bears the model number 581, 586, 681, 686, or 581-1, 586-1, 681-1, 686-1, 686CS-1 without an "M" over the model number, it does not include this improvement and your should have your revolver modified.

Smith & Wesson will modify your L-frame revolver free of charge to eliminate the possibility of cylinder binding with .357 Magnum ammunition. Law enforcement agencies wishing to arrange for modification of L-frame revolvers should call 800-458-8469 between 9 A.M. and 6 P.M. Eastern time (MA residents call 413-734-8244). Other users should send their revolvers to a Smith & Wesson Warranty Service Center, specifying "L-frame improvement program" and enclosing their name and return address.

One of the modifications to improve the L-frame revolver is the installation of a new hammer nose. This obsoletes all old L-frame hammer noses (part numbers 4702 and 7513) and all old L-frame hammer assemblies (part numbers 3366, 3378, 3380, 3382, 3391, 4722, 4723, 4726 and 4728) in field parts inventories. Superseded parts should never be fitted into a modified revolver as this may result in malfunction. It is essential for safety that you return these obsolete L-frame hammer noses and obsolete L-frame hammer assemblies for a free exchange to:

Smith & Wesson
Service Department
2100 Roosevelt Avenue
Springfield, MA 01101

Do not return L-frame hammer-nose bushings from your spare parts inventory inasmuch as they are useable in J, N and K-frame revolvers, which are not included in this Product Warning.

We regret any inconvenience this may cause. Smith & Wesson's first concern is the safety of its products and the protection of its customers.

Source:

Shotgun News November 1, 1989; page ?

Guns & Ammo, December 1987; page 6"
 
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I would buy it for that price in a heartbeat. I am pretty sure a 586 no dash needs to have the modification done on it by S&W. They will do it for free and pay for shipping.
 
I am pretty sure a 586 no dash needs to have the modification done on it by S&W. They will do it for free and pay for shipping.

That's what I thought also, but, from my original post, "Anyway, I called S&W today and they told me this gun was manufactored later and the modification wasn't necessary."
 
I need another 586 give me the guys name and phone number and I will take it. In all seriousness, the L Frame 357s are the best all around 357s Smith ever made in MHO.

I pick up all the old L Frame 4"ers I can find.
 
That's a pretty good price for a quality gun. I would not worry much about the recall. Only if the gun has problems when shooting hot 125 grain loads would you need to deal with it. Smith should know whether it needs the new parts or if it already has them. Whatever is messing up the cocking, should be an easy fix. Try a good cleaning first, it may have stuff left over from manufacture. It shouldn't, but it might. Even if you have to pay for shipping back to the factory, you have got it at a good enough price.
 
That's a good price, but sounds like it needs a really good internal cleaning. If you don't feel comfortable totally disassembling it, get a qualified gunsmith to do it. Don't try going in unless you feel comfortable doing it. There are several steps that can damage it if you do not know what you are doing.
 
Similar issue with my newly aquired 586

MSgt G,

I recently purchased a used 4" 586 that appears to visibly be in 98%-99% condition. This revolver was owned by a man who has been deceased for the past ten years and it has sat untouched, in a foam lined box, for that period of time. Fortunately there is no visible signs of rusting or pitting anywhere on the revolver. A good wipe down with an oiled rag made it look like it was new. The internal parts also look look shiny and new.

Unfortunately my 586 has issues similar to yours in that it is hard to close the cylinder and to get the cylinder latch to lock properly. When I do get the cylinder closed the trigger pull is horrendous, expecially for a S&W L-frame revolver.

After examining the revolver for a period of time I come to the conclusion that either the yoke or the extractor rod may have a very slight bend in it and this is not allowing the the spring, at the extractor star, to fully engage the cylinder latch straight on. If my theory is correct this may be causing the extractor rod spring to bind in the area where it meets the extractor latch???

Some of the symptoms I observed on my 586 was stiffness in the trigger pull and single action cocking. I also noticed lead spatter on the cylinder and yoke. Originally I though the lead was bluing that had been rubbed off due to the revolver having been mishandled. I was pleased to see that it was only lead and it was able to be rubbed off when I wiped the revolver down with the oiled rag.

In checking the revolver, I found that when I removed the yoke and put only the cylinder in place the revolver cycled freely and somewhat smoother. Upon removing the cylinder and putting only the yoke back in place I found that the yoke mated nicely with the frame. When I put everything back together the way it would normally be... the stiffness returned.

I guess my 586 will be off to the S&W Service Center to have the yoke or extractor rod replaced or straightened???


-Rick
 
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It's possible that the yoke got sprung if someone swung the cylinder shut into the frame a'la "Danno" on "Hawaii 5-0" or whatever, instead of manually closing the cylinder into the frame. I suspect it wouldn't take much of a change to stiffen the action in the manner you describe.

Please note that I'm not a gunsmith, however. Just a wannabe.

I hope it won't be a pain to get fixed.
I'm in agreement that that Smith's L-frames are the finest .357's that they've ever made.
 
Whenever a S&W cylinder binds or is hard to close, I would suggest examining the area under the extractor star for residue such as unburned powder, sludge buildup, etc. A very little junk under the extractor can result in a cylinder bind.

As for the problem with the cylinder release having to be moved to the rear, it is a design feature of this part, the bolt as I recall, that if the cylinder pin does not seat fully and push the bolt back, it will block the hammer. It is possible that the cylinder is out of alignment at the breach end and the cylinder pin is not seating properly when the cylinder closes.
 

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