5906 most needed parts + detail strip instructions

Mosinguy

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What parts would I most need to keep a few 5906s running strong? They will be used at the range and for carry, nothing brutal. I just don't want to have to wait a few days for the postman to deliver new parts. So, again, what parts would I most likely go through the fastest on a 5906? I know recoil spring mostly, but what else?

Since some parts need fitted, what tools will I need to custom fit parts? I've never fit parts before so what exactly is involved?

Finally, can anyone point me to instructions on how to detail strip my 5906s down to the last part? I'd like to know my guns inside and out and mean it when I say it. All help is appreciated guys! :cool:
 
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Anyone? I've been collecting info here and there but would appreciate some more knowledge. :)
 
Fireing pin and spring, disconector and spring, new mag springs. As for a detailed strip, you might want to check out the excellent gunsmith ing videos by AGI, they have one on the 5900 series I believe. AGI - software to model, analyze and visualize space, defense and intelligence systems
And Wolff Gun Springs can help you with those springs, and Numerich and SARCO and Midway USA are good places to look for parts if your not sending the pistol to S&W for servicing. Dale
 
People neglect recoil & mag springs. For dedicated duty weapons S&W recommends its armorers replace them either every 5K rounds fired, or every fire years of serve, whichever occurs first. The use of +P or +P+ duty ammo might accelerate the spring wear, though.

The sear release lever and the extractor are considered "fitted" parts.

Checking the fit of the sear release lever & proper decocking "timing" used to be done by eye, manipulating the decocking levers, checking the point when the hammer decocked, and then snapping the hammer to complete the downward movement of the decocking lever, but in recent years S&W has provided its LE armorers with some numbered drill bits that are used for GO/NO-GO gauges (the non-cutting end is the "gauge) to check this timing during lever movement. The sear release lever itself is adjusted by filing the foot shorter, maintaining the correct angle, to the degree needed to achieve proper decocking timing as it displaces the sear nose forward (letting the hammer fall).

The fitting of extractors requires the use of the factory-provided GO/NO-GO bar gauge to check the reach of the hook into the breech face. Filing the adjustment pad of the extractors changes the reach of the hook.

The tension of the extractors are checked using a Force Dial gauge (with the appropriate extension to hook over the extractor hook), with the tension amount checked at deflection of the extractor. There's a recommended tension range for different calibers/models, and optional lighter/heaver springs available to assist the armorer, repair tech or gunsmith in achieving the required tension for any particular pistol.

Granted, in my last 3rd gen pistol armorer recert class there was a 5906TSW in which an extractor slipped into a slide, and without any filing was found to be within the recommended tolerance when the extractor bar gauge was used to check it. That's the exception to the rule, though, and we were told that it was more than likely due to the newest tolerances being used in manufacturing the components and parts. Of all the extractors I've had to replace in 3rd gen guns over the years I've been an armorer, I've had to file the adjustment tabs on the extractors in order to get them to meet the "GO" specs using the bar gauge.

The 5906's are robust, durable and reliable service 9's, but there are some repairs that are best left to someone who has the knowledge and experience.

Just my thoughts.
 
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Fastbolt is your best source for fitted parts.

For just taking the slide and frame down to bare bones, the AGI video is good. For a free picture tutorial (I believe it's a Gen 2) do a search for smithandwesson forums, there's another one. There's a sticky in the Gunsmithing for frame and slide disassembly.

Dave
 
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