6 shot M18 and M17 vs The new 10 shot

squiggy

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I have a question. I have been thinking that I would like to pick up an old 6 shot K frame .22. I would like the double action trigger to feel very similar to my M66. This is why I am thinking I would like the old 6 shot model. Then I got to thinking, maybe the new 10 shot models feel just the same, and have 4 more rounds in the cylinder. I would think this would not be the case, since the cylinder is not rotating as far. I don't think I have ever played with either pistol. How do those 10 shot revolvers feel? Would shooting it be good training for shooting my bigger revolvers, or should I get an old timey six shot?
 
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The trigger action will be similar on the six shot and ten shot versions. My suggestion is to get both if you can afford it. :)

Model 18-3
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Model 617-6
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The double action trigger pull of a .22 rim fire will be noticeably heavier than your model 66. It takes a heavier spring to consistently ignite the rim fire cartridge. Regardless, S&W .22 rim fire revolvers, old and new, are a joy to shoot.

The difference in trigger pull between a 10 shot and a 6 shot .22 rim fire will be negligible or nill.

re: " Would shooting it be good training for shooting my bigger revolvers, or should I get an old timey six shot?"
In my opinion the more challenging trigger pull of the rim fire revolvers, either 6 or 10 shot, helps train you to maintain better trigger control and makes it seem easier to maintain good trigger control with the center fire S&W revolvers.

Definition of trigger control at militarytraining.net:
Trigger control is the ability to move the trigger to the rear to allow the hammer to fall without disturbing sight alignment or sight picture. Definition: Trigger control is the manipulation of the trigger, allowing the shot to break without disturbing sight alignment.
 
I have an older 6 shot blued M17. This is a full lug model around the Bangor Punta era. Awesome and accurate firearm. Bluing is very good; as well as, the action. I really didn't shoot it much, migrating to semi-autos. On a whim, picked up a ten round 617 simply because it matched the round count of the majority of my semis. Glad I did. It's a very accurate firearm and the action is a smith (didn't take much to smooth it up). The only obvious difference I notice between the 6 vs. 10 is lock up time, which is understandable.
 
The variation from revolver to revolver with factory actions is more than the difference from the ten to six shot .22s.

Agree.

Getting a 22LR revolver to cheaply preactice is a good idea. Any practice in DA helps you.
 
I have an older 6 shot blued M17. This is a full lug model around the Bangor Punta era. Awesome and accurate firearm. Bluing is very good; as well as, the action. I really didn't shoot it much, migrating to semi-autos. On a whim, picked up a ten round 617 simply because it matched the round count of the majority of my semis. Glad I did. It's a very accurate firearm and the action is a smith (didn't take much to smooth it up). The only obvious difference I notice between the 6 vs. 10 is lock up time, which is understandable.

Thanks for the information. I will have to rent on the next time I go to my local range.
 
I am the proud owner of a 4" M617 and other classic S&W rimfire L/R models, 18,34,63 and the trigger action on the older and the M617 are both amazing. The M617 can't surely be expected to stand quite as tall as the older seasoned models but it still has a very appealing S/D action, take break in into account on the M617. On the plus side also the M617 cylinder is more accommodating to today's ammo and you won't experience the binding of ammo in the cylinder as you commonly do with the older models, sometimes requiring the cylinder to be reamed out. Not a big deal but it does happen and will vary from model to model and ammo types. I also agree with the idea of owning at least 1 of each if affordable.
 
I had a sample of near every dash number model 17,18 and 617 made back in my serious collecting days. While I still do cherish a few old blued S&W .22 revolvers, the one that is my go to for play is a 4" 617 10 shot . They point naturally, have great balance and the actions slick up nicely. Being stainless, I don't worry about finish wear either.

PS as an aside I find the DS-10 speed loaders work significantly better that the HKS-22 6 shot J/K models.
 
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Today at the range I rented a 617 4" 10 shot. I shot good with it. While shooting it, I realized that most of the "feel" on a double action trigger is the cocking of the hammer, and the spring. The rotation of the cylinder does not play into it that much. In my mind, I thought it would be more significant. I did not like the full lug barrel. Unneeded weight if I wanted to pack it small game hunting.
 
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I had a Model 18 and loved the trigger pull. Excellent weapon but I sold it and bought this Model 617. I like the 10 shot capacity better than the 6. I use it for Steel Challenge matches and with speed loaders it's a pleasure to shoot.

Mine is highly modified. I have a smooth 7 lb double action trigger pull but it took a lot of work to get it there.

The Model 18 had a super smooth double action pull from the factory. Those old Smiths are hard to not like.
 
Can't address the 18 & 17 v 617 question, but regarding using the 617 as training for your larger caliber revolvers, I highly recommend it.

I have 617s with 4" & 6" barrels. After a few months of practice with them, they took my 686 shooting up to the next level. Additionally, I found it much easier to train on other drills such as shooting one handed & shooting while on the move to be a lot more beneficial as I can concentrate on technique without the recoil.

Get either or both. If it's a Smith revolver, you can't go wrong.
 
You can't go wrong with an of the K frame 22s. I can't imagine parting with my 6 shot 17-6s. Unless I stumbled upon a 10 shot for a crazy low price, I am not looking. However, a prelock/MIM 648 is another story.
 

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God created the Earth in SIX days and rested.

Sam Colt created the SIX shot Forty-Five and rested..

Since then Neither God NOR Sam have rested...
 
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After shooting the 4" 617 at the range the other day, I am starting to think I need one. I don't like the full lug barrel. It add unnecessary weight to the gun. Does anyone know of a gunsmithing service that could machine it down to make it lighter?
 
This is one of the reason I went with a Model 18. I shot a friend's 617 and also thought the underlug made the gun front heavy.
 
Forgive me if this question is inappropriate for the S&W forum: What about the Ruger SP101 in .22 LR? It does not have the silly over-weight underlug barrel. What do folks think of them?
 

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