610 IS Back !!

If I'm limited to a N frame sized gun, there are certainly other choices. There are 8 shot .357 and 9 mm that are moon clip ready. Also the .45 ACP in the N frame though it's a six shooter. If we have a six shot L frame size gun that fires a cartridge that approaches the .41 mag and loads with moon clips, now you're on to something. Not to mention that it can also use cheap .40 ammo. I've long been a proponent of the .41 Special. The 10 mm in a medium frame fills that nitch and then some.
 
The FLUL does add barrel weight for decreased muzzle buck for faster follow up shots that a fightsman or shootist may need in a scenario.
 
I'm just glad, that somebody 'got woke' at S&W, and brought-back the ubiquitous 610. I currently, own two with one-version being a Lew Horton. I'll probably grab a Ruger GP-100 Match Champion, and maybe a long-barreled S&W. Now, if Dan Wesson would come-out with a 10mm chambering in their revolver; that would-be a 'hat-trick'.

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They use moon clips and the 10mm has almost identical ballistics to high end .357 magnums BUT the long, skinny .357s are a pain to load quickly with moon clips, they can become pitched and hang up.

The shorter, fatter, rounder 10mms slide ride into the cylinders, especially after a chamfer job. Basically, the 10mm is easier and faster to reload under stress vs the .357 even if both use moon clips.

Also, the 10mm shoots a bigger heavier bullet with every bit as much energy as a .357 magnum. It just all adds up to a fast loading, very hard hitting, superb little setup. Also another plus to the 610 is it can use .40 S&W ammo for cheap practice and/or lower recoil. Prices on .40 S&W are very low today, actually often lower than .38 Special, but few will argue a .38 hits harder than the .40, so for the same "buck" you get more bang!


I have to agree. When you look on paper the two are basically interchangeable in terms of terminal effect ME etc but when you consider the real world use of the rounds in stressful situations then the 10mm starts to pull away. You do save money on the 357 when it comes to reloading costs but its very small. Tech the 10mm will also do better in shorter barrels as its powder vol by bore cross sectional area is smaller as in more vol for the powder to expand in. The larger the bore for the same power volume the faster the powder used and the shorter barrel needed for complete burn.

But beyond all the factual data, there is just something cool about the 10mm period. Be it revolver or auto. As an example, I hate Glocks but was willing to own a 20 and 40 for the 10mm. I looked up and down to convert one of my full size 45M&Ps to 10mm and think I could do it if not for wanting to spend the time when the glock is ready to go.

I only wish they could have found a way to do a 7 shot to take advantage or lose the disadvantage of using the large N frame. 10mm x 6 in an L Frame would have been like reaching the center of the tootsie roll pop; but that has not happened yet so...

While I do agree, the 10mm can offer a one to one advantage over the 357. That swings the other way when we are speaking of being limited to the N frame as I can pack 8 rds of equally potent 357 in the exact same size package that can only take 6 of 10mm. A bit faster reload being the only advantage does not balance a 25% increase in ammo on tap. Its huge in terms of a tactical situation. As can be seen in the rules of most all the competitions which will only allow 6 rds regardless.

Not to mention I can have it in a 327 2.5" and 5" that have the weight of L frame and even less all the time with super accuracy. Not to mention I have the choice of Ti or SS cyl so I can really cut weight even more or choose something more durable.


All that said......... I am about as happy as I can be we are getting a 10mm again. I am fine with Ruger but there is just something that feels like a step down compared to SW even if its not practically true. SW has always been seen as top tier vs Ruger deserved all the time or not its the perception.

Now I need to go check a gunbroker bid I had on my answer to wanting a 686 half lug which means a "mountain" edition but not willing to pay the stupid scalpers mark up prices of over $1500+ for a used gun. Hope my plan works out. Will know in about 15 mins.

Cheers
 
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In stock?

Anyone know the latest on the new 610? I got an email from GaG saying they were in stock, but when I went to their website, they showed out of stock. Have they actually started shipping yet? Anyone have one?
 
I have a new 6.5" on layaway at my LGS. April was a rough month on my wallet and I might not be able to pick it up for another month or so.

Anyways it came in on Tuesday and I went down to look at it. Honestly it looked like any other new S&W revolver. Fit was good, finish was a little off on the left side of the barrel, like it didn't get it's final polish. Maybe it was just the lighting in the store but it looked dull, I think I can fix it though. There were a couple metal shavings sticking out from around the barrel to frame junction, I picked them off.


Timing was good, trigger pull was good, chamber to barrel alignment was good, cylinder gap was good, barrel alignment to the frame was good. Functionally it checked out fine, the aesthetics would have kept me from buying it if it was anything else besides a 610. I've wanted one for a while.
 
Anybody know if the new releases will still be the 610-3?

Also, the "short" dash 3 is listed as 3 7/8 inch and the new release is advertised as 4 inches.

I have a new 6.5" on layaway at my LGS. ...I went down to look at it. Honestly it looked like any other new S&W revolver. Fit was good, finish was a little off on the left side of the barrel, like it didn't get it's final polish.

Put my name on a couple waiting lists at the LGS & got a call this morning from one that they got a couple in today. They said they couldn't get any 6.5" but I had already told them I wanted a 4". Off to the LGS to grab one.

They are stamped as 610-3 models. SKU#12463 is listed everywhere as a 4" barrel but is actually 3-7/8" (3.875").

The frame & cylinder's finish are fairly shiney & uniform but the barrel was noticeably duller. The face of the cylinder usually has burn marks from the (3) fired test rounds but mine was prefectly clean, so someone took the time to do an excellant job cleaning on it.

One thing they're obviously skipping now though was cleaning inside, under the sideplate. The whole inside was coated in a reddish dark brown residue that didn't smell very good.

The innards were well lubed but this residue colored the oil & any that dripped out. I'm guessing that residue was from when they heat treated the frame (?) & they're not taking the time to remove it inside now, as I've never seen anything to this degree before. I removed the majority of it.

Cylinder lock-up is good, the SA trigger was typical S&W good are about 4-1/2# with a touch of roughness.

Did may usual trigger job (Wolff 14# rebound slide spring with 1/2 coil cut-off & a little polishing) on it & now it's SA pull is 2.75# & smooth.

Chamfered the muzzle to give the rifling a better presentation & improved appearance.

The cylinder's throats are right at .400" using my pin gage. The bore was right at .390" but had a very slight constriction at the barrel-frame union, which I hand lapped out with some 600 grit abrasive compound.

While I was in there I cleaned & smoothed out the forcing cone's roughness to my likeness.

I replaced the all black interchangeable front sight (.249" tall) with a red ramp of the same height I had on-hand. The rear sight blade is white outlined. In the past it's white outline is very thin & barely visible. This one is tons better, wider & brighter than I've seen in years.

It appears as though S&W is using a different style firing pin now; it's body is hollow. Not something I've seen on any of my other new purchases. Maybe making it lighter for some reason?

Lastly, polished it up & swapped out the factory rubber grips for my favorite range grips, some Hogues. Off to the range to try it out.

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Argh! Not available yet, here in the people's republic of Kalifornia .
Eagerly awaiting its inception into our beloved roster....
[emoji35][emoji3060]
 
Saw a review on youtube where a Ruger GP100 10 mm misfires half the time with SW 40. And it's said that is a common experience with owners. Ruger moonclips not stout enough to hold the rounds in place?
It gave me pause about being an early adopter of a 610.
 
Saw a review on youtube where a Ruger GP100 10 mm misfires half the time with SW 40. And it's said that is a common experience with owners. Ruger moonclips not stout enough to hold the rounds in place?
It gave me pause about being an early adopter of a 610.


I have to ask, what does your last sentence mean?

The 610s have been around for about 3 decades now. My oldest is about 25 years old at the moment

None of my early guns had any issues, nor do I recall any issues back then

What was wrong with your early 610?
 
For those who own/ shot and have experiences with both the 610 and the GP100 10mm, can you describe the recoil? I have a 686, 627and GP100 as well as a 24 and 625, along with 1911s in 45. Am curious if the team here can help illuminate me on the felt recoil impulse. I understand we all don't respond the same way to recoil, but wanted to get a sense, as I'm interested in getting a 10mm revolver.
 
Range results: didn't have to chase after 10mm brass this time

Saw a review on youtube where a Ruger GP100 10 mm misfires half the time with SW 40. And it's said that is a common experience with owners.

For those who own/ shot and have experiences with both the 610 and the GP100 10mm, can you describe the recoil?

Got to the range & test fired the 610-3. Didn't get the time to load up some incremental loads beforehand, to see if it would like one load more than the other, so I just took a couple loads that my 3rd Gen 10mm's group well with: Zero 165gr JHP w/9.5gr @ Power Pistol, and HDY 180gr HAP w/10.0gr @ Blue Dot, CCI-300, & 1.258" COAL.

Took a few rounds to get it sighted in. Added a fair amount of vertical elevation to raise it up to the 6 o'clock hold I like. Also had to crank in a little windage to the right. (Didn't notice it before I bought it :o but the barrel's shoulder at the frame "looks" like it had some cant to it so I was happy it only needed a bit of windage adjustment.)

I initially used the factory moon-clips to establish it's shooting functionality & reliability. (This style moon-clips, with the split between each round's gripping arms, is easy to load by hand unlike the one's that are solid in-between.) I just ordered a pack of the polymer EZ RIMZ 610 moon-clips to have available also.

I'd be first in-line for some Auto Rim style 10mm cases but I just sent that suggest (again) to Starline & they replied they don't have any plan to make them at this time. Maybe if enough people request them they might start making them? Just go to "Starline Brass - Contact Us Online", click on the Subject box & pick "New Cartridge Suggestion" if you'd like to see them. Contact Starline Brass | Rifle, Handgun and Pistol Reloading Brass. Can't hurt. ;)

The bulk of the (100) rounds I fired were WITHOUT moon-clip though & I had no misfires like this. It's frequently mentioned with 625 revolvers & 45ACP ammo but like with my 325/625s the 610-3 has good chamber shoulders for the mouth of the case to headspace on. My handloads usually have about .002-.003" taper crimp at the case mouth. I did not fire any 40 S&W rounds in it though, which of course would require moon-clips.

The 165gr loads consistently grouped the best of the two I took. I usually shoot (10) rounds groups to checking grouping but the first (5) of this group was by far the best. (Don't expect me to do that everytime. :p)

Recoil is a tad more than I was thinking, since I've only fired 10mms in my autos before, but definitely nothing much. (9.5gr@P-P is just below my 10.0gr max.)

As you'd figure, recoil is right between a 158gr .357 Magnum & a 210gr .41 Magnum, both of which I shoot in 4" N-frames too. So I'd say if you're good shooting 230gr (+P) in your 625 this isn't far from it. And I see no reason for me to add the cushier Pachmayr Diamond Pro grips I need on some of mine, if that tells you anything, the Hogues with the bare backstrap worked fine for me.

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Return of S&W Model 610 10mm

Thank you cometpx4 for bringing this new production
S&W 610 10mm to our attention.

BlueDot37 thank you for the very in-depth Reports on
this Revolver.

As I always say about S&W Revolvers with the "Lock"
it will just be the next Phase of collecting S&Ws.

With the Crazy Prices of the Original 610's and gambling
on what the prior Owner did to it, these New 610's are
just as good and have a price that is reasonable.

On several Sites I see that the Orig. 610's are not selling
to fast and prices will be dropping when Shooters figure
out there are New Production Models in 6" and 4" Barrels
to be had.

I'm on the fence on getting one because I'm holding out
on something 41Rem Mag or 45 Long Colt. The 610 10mm
is interesting though!

Any way Thank You cometpx4 and BlueDot37.
 

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I am.disappointed with myself for not checking them out while at NRA. I walk passed and through the Smith booth countless times during the
3-day event. I moonlight as a booth-babe and was busy working.
 
That rare gun is not being reproduced, sad to say. New ones will have the lock , frame mounted firing pin, etc.
 
Groo here
I looked at the first S&W 10mm's.
Even the Nightguard was just too big a frame.
I finally found a ruger GP100 WC in 10mm.
3 in,6 shot, moon clips , starts with a 4, takes the hot stuff,AND
L frame sized.
S&W was just too big and late to the party...
The WC has been my field CCW for some 3 months now...
 
And they are available already! Just put an order on 4" online. Whoo-hoo
 
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