610 - very difficult to open cylinder....

[Kenneth07ex]

My suggestion would be that after a good internal cleaning & inspection. If this produces no results, I'd have to send it back for S&W to fix. It's running about six weeks, and it's a free ride both ways. Why mess around in there yourself when trained people are standing by.

I always remove any special parts, or accessories, since one time a ruger revolver was replaced, and they had to find & return my custom grips. You'd think that they would've just included them in the box with the new firearm.

 

[sjmjax]

Final update and resolution:

First, I’d like to thank everyone for responding to my thread and your thoughtful and helpful suggestions.

I’d especially like to thank Rich Richardson for the Chuck idea for cylinder disassembly. Reminded my that I have a small lathe. Locking the spindle and gripping the ejector shaft, works beautifully for disassembling cylinders without risk of damage.

Compared the springs in a 624 with the 610. The springs look identical. But the 610 spring was slightly stiffer. Installed it in the 624. You can feel a slight difference but works normally.

I’d like to thank Armorer951 for leading me to the real problem. Yoke alignment. The 610 yoke had small burrs that contacted the underlug and part of the frame. Yoke wasn’t closing completely. The amount was small. But once the burrs were filed off, cylinder now opens and closes as S&W intended. Happy 10mm shooter again!

Thanks again to all of you. Hope you learned something useful as well.

 

[robertrwalsh]

I love happy endings.

 

[WR Moore]

I have a model 60 whose bolt wasn't machined properly from the factory. The center pin wouldn't be pressed clear of the breech face. It felt like I filed on that bolt for ages before I got the end of it flush (or a tad proud) of the breech face.

I'll also note that ejector rods generally don't have the outside concentric with the inner bore and some can have ferocious bends. This can set up some surprising drag on the center pin.