625-6 timing problem?

[akjaeger]

I've got a 625-6 Mountain Gun in .45 ACP with what I believe is a timing problem
The cylinder stop bolt doesn't seem to be dropping out of the cylinder stop notch before the cylinder starts to turn. This cause a hard spot or hesitation on the beginning of the double action trigger pull.
The gun has the MIM internals. When it was new it had an excellent DA trigger. Now it has about 1000 rounds thru it.
Where should I send it for repair?
Will the MIM parts stand up to a lot of shooting?
Thanks,
Brent

 

[K-22]

I've got a 625-6 Mountain Gun in .45 ACP with what I believe is a timing problem
The cylinder stop bolt doesn't seem to be dropping out of the cylinder stop notch before the cylinder starts to turn. This cause a hard spot or hesitation on the beginning of the double action trigger pull.
The gun has the MIM internals. When it was new it had an excellent DA trigger. Now it has about 1000 rounds thru it.
Where should I send it for repair?
Will the MIM parts stand up to a lot of shooting?
Thanks,
Brent

Brent,
Call S&W for a shipping label. They should repair it under warranty.
Best,
Gary

 

[bountyhunter]

That sounds like a problem with the stop bolt itself. Those are fitted to drop right when the trigger starts to pull, so you should never have the hangup at the initial pull. Should be an easy fix. I believe the MIM parts are as durable as the older forged parts, at least I have not seen any evidence they are inferior in service. They are definitely ugly, but they do seem to work OK.

 

[tomcatt51]

I've got a 625-6 Mountain Gun in .45 ACP with what I believe is a timing problem
The cylinder stop bolt doesn't seem to be dropping out of the cylinder stop notch before the cylinder starts to turn. This cause a hard spot or hesitation on the beginning of the double action trigger pull.
The gun has the MIM internals. When it was new it had an excellent DA trigger. Now it has about 1000 rounds thru it.
Where should I send it for repair?
Will the MIM parts stand up to a lot of shooting?
Thanks,
Brent

Kind of an odd problem. Usually this isn't an issue unless the trigger or cylinder stop have been stoned excessively during a "trigger job". On an MIM trigger/cyl stop it doesn't take much to screw up the cylinder stop timing. More common with the cylinder tieing up is reloads that won't go in the chambers quite far enough and drag on the recoil shield. Slightly high primers contribute too.

Replacement MIM cylinder stops are "drop ins".

The MIM parts have NO durability problems.

 

[akjaeger]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies.
This is a great place for info.
I bought the gun used last winter, but I didn't think it had been fired much.
It doesn't appear to have had any work done on the internals.
It hangs up whether loaded or dry firing.
There is a very small burr starting to form on the cylinder stop notches. I haven't had the bolt out of the gun, maybe I'll take it out and clean it up. See if anything is obviously amiss.
I bought the gun specifically to shoot double action and it has been working great. When I first got it I thought the DA pull was the best of my stock N frames.
Andy Cannon had reworked a 629-2 Mountain Revolver years ago and it has been my favorite. This DA pull was a little different but equally easy to hit with.
So I'm kinda bummed out.

 

[bountyhunter]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies.
This is a great place for info.
I bought the gun used last winter, but I didn't think it had been fired much.
It doesn't appear to have had any work done on the internals.
It hangs up whether loaded or dry firing.
There is a very small burr starting to form on the cylinder stop notches. I haven't had the bolt out of the gun, maybe I'll take it out and clean it up. See if anything is obviously amiss.
I bought the gun specifically to shoot double action and it has been working great. When I first got it I thought the DA pull was the best of my stock N frames.
Andy Cannon had reworked a 629-2 Mountain Revolver years ago and it has been my favorite. This DA pull was a little different but equally easy to hit with.
So I'm kinda bummed out.

Call SW, they might send you a stop (they are pretty cheap). If not, Numrich has them. They are easy to fit, just measure how far the top of the stop drops at it's lowest point and make sure it doesn't go under the inner edge of the frame because it might hang up. You may not have to fit it, but it's easy if you do. Just shave a tiny bit off the tip that engages the trigger nose.

If the "burrs" on the cylinder notches are on the side away from the descending ramp, that could be normal peening from where the cylinder stop blocks the rotating cylinder. You see peening on all SW cylinders after they are used a while.

 

[akjaeger]

Thanks Bounty hunter, I'll check it out.

 

[tomcatt51]

Brownell's carries the cylinder stops also. Replace the stop spring too. The stops normally drop in. The stop notches get peened if you shoot DA alot. The only "fix" for that is a Titanium cylinder.

 

[akjaeger]

I sprayed some crud cutter into the slot for the cylinder stop. It seemed to help.
So I took the whole thing apart again, this time taking out the cylinder stop also. Gave it a real good scrubbing. Couldn't see anything that would have hung it up.
When I put it all back together it works fine. I'll shoot it some more and see what happens.
Thanks for all the info,
Brent

 

[Crazy K38]

that's what I was wondering, I know buildup can affect a lot of parts, hope it worked!