625

[ombesb]

HI,
Somewhat new here, a few posts, bought a couple of guns, read a lot. I have a 625 that binds up to varying degrees on 3 cylinders. One is especially tight. Looking at the works with the side plate off it is the hand not sliding smoothly off of its 'nub' on the back of the cylinder. It rides higher then pops off. The others ride up smoothly and slide off in good order as the cylinder reaches position. I can not detect an obvious difference in the driving lugs on the cylinder. Any thoughts or experience??

Eric

 

[tennexplorer]

Are the three chambers next to each other? If so look for a bent ejector rod. It's binding in the yoke. Can also cause the ejector star to not seat correctly.

 

[ombesb]

Yes they are next to each other however I can not detect any bend at all in the rod and the star sits perfectly flat with no apparent binding.

 

[TSQUARED]

The simplest method for checking if the ejector rod is bent is to open the cylinder and give the cylinder a quick spin so that it spins freely - any bent can be seen as slight wobble.

 

[Muley Gil]

Also check for dirt under the ejector star. A fellow police officer brought me a M19 that was doing the same as your M625. There was just enough unburned powder under the star to make it bind.

 

[Forrest r]

Check for end shake in your cylinder. Excessive end shake can & will cause exactly what your describing. I just fixed (power custom end shake bearings) an old 4-screw k-22 that was starting to bind on 2 of the holes in the cylinders. I knew it was getting sloppy/loose from years of use & it finely started binding on 2 holes that were side by side. I used a feeler gage & found that the gap between the bbl/cylinder was 8/1000’s. I put 6/1000’s worth of shims in to stop the end shake & the cylinder doesn’t bind any more.

I’ve put the end shake bearings in a lot of different revolvers. It’s the quickest, easiest & cheapest way to improve the trigger on a revolver, IE= cheap trigger job. Checking for excessive end shake is easy to do. Simply hold the revolver & try to push the cylinder straight back towards the hammer. It should not move at all, if it does you have excessive play in the cylinder that can lead to it binding when the ratchet arm tries to move/push it. You should only have 2/1000’s gap between the bbl & cylinder. If you have some play/movement in your cylinder, measure that movement with a feeler gage (automotive for spark plugs). That will tell you how much end shake you have (the feeler gage measurement minus 2/1000). A couple thousands of end shake is acceptable but I’ve found that anything over an extra 2/1000’s (4/1000’s total measurement) in end shake movement causes the cylinder to start to bind & the trigger to get stiffer/heavier in general.

It costs you nothing & will take 30 seconds of your time to check your pistol for excessive end shake. It’s worth looking into.

 

[ombesb]

Forrest r,

I knew this was a seldom shot gun when I got it and tight too. When I took hard measurements I got a snug .0015 b/c gap with cylinder relaxed. And a snug .005 pulling the cylinder back firmly. The cylinder does not wobble at all giving it a spin. I actually made a little progress with this problem by lightly polishing the 'lugs' on the extractor for the cylinders in question here. And, no, the cylinder does not drag on the forcing cone. Light black coating on the face, this is a shooter, not a show piece. I am getting the impression that .0035 would not be enough to cause a problem , but still good to learn and know things to watch for. Thanks all.