625JM problems - cylinder binding?

[ShrinkMD]

I was shooting my loads today, using Starline 45 auto rim brass, as well as some 45 acp in Rimz polymer clips. I had great difficulty shooting in double action most of the time, as the revolver was getting stuck. Then on some rounds I needed to thumb the hammer back and move the cylinder manually to advance it. After the rounds were all fired this got better, but not always. Some rounds were smooth and no problem, but most were not.

I know this is not normal. Is this because of my loads (maybe primers not deep enough?) or the brass? It's weird, I had similar problems in the past shooting Wolf 45acp in the Rimz clips.

Meanwhile, I have a set of 6 snap caps in a metal moonclip and the gun works fine. This gun was bought new, and has a couple hundred rounds through it so far.

Is this likely an ammo/reloading problem, or does it need to go back to S&W for some tlc?

 

[photoman]

Highly likely you have unburned powder under the ejector star.

 

[David Sinko]

Clean it up and then take it out and shoot it again WITHOUT the Rimz. It could be fouling under the star, but I never experience this problem unless I'm using a really chunky powder. I avoid the plastic moonclips; I believe they are a bit thicker.

Dave Sinko

 

[ShrinkMD]

Yeah, but this problem was happening with nice new Starline auto rim brass! I will check under the extractor star, but I'm usually on the overcleaning side and I doubt I missed a spot. The gun had this problem even the first time it was shot, but I figured the rimz were no good.

 

[Geroge Rodgers]

Also check to make sure that the ejector rod is not comming unscrewed.

 

[deanodog]

I had one that got carbon in the firing pin channel and it would not let the firing pin retract all the way and the ammo was dragging on the end of the firing pin as it went around. Cleaned and installed new firing pin and spring. Problem solved. Easily checked.

 

[batmann]

My 626 Mountain Gun did the same thing, turned out to be a rather large chunk of grit (powder) under the extraction star.

 

[surveyor47]

Check the FRONT end of the cylinder and barrel for lead deposits. I recently experienced binding due to that problem with a batch of bullets from a different manufacturer than I have previously used. There was extreme leading on my 642 with taget loads of 38 Special, bound up the gun in 50 rounds.

 

[tbury]

It sounds like high primers to me, since fired cases did not have the binding problem. I have had similar problems with either tight primer pockets or pockets which had powder build up. Either situation can cause different seating depth with the same arm pressure on the press while seating the primer. Most of my priming is done with a hand primer now since it is easy to feel the seating and check each case as I prime.

 

[Stainz]

I had a tiny thread wrapped round the ejector rod/star junction once - that was all it took to yield ftfs andodd dragging. Also, I assume you make your ammo. Do you have that fourth hole Lee 'factory' crimper/resizer die? If not, it is well worth the cost. My Dillon 550 - with a single seater/crimper - produced many odd rounds that were, in some cases, responsible for dragging at least, and some prevented the cylinder's closure at worst. It did this to ACP & AR cases - and all I use are Starline. That single crimper/carbide resizer did the trick.

Another possibility - too much b/c gap - the cylinder lacks proper headspace. The S&W allowable range for b/c gap is .004-.010" check it with a set of feeler gauges. It should be very consistent. Too much b/c gap sets the cylinder back - lessening the headspace - causing drag. My much used, actually, my SPC revolver, first 4" 625-8 literally closed down on the fc - it's b/c gap was 0-.002+" - it was canted, too. S&W fixed it gratis. Good luck!

Stainz

 

[ShrinkMD]

Well, it came back from S&W the other day. The printout form showed that they repaired the yoke to deal with endshake, and they also replaced the chromed hammer with another one (since some of the chrome plating was wearing off) All on their dime both ways. Left on a Monday, came back Friday the next week.

So I am quite pleased with the service, but now I need to get to the range and see how she performs.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Just make sure when you eject your cases, you point the muzzle up. You don't want any unburnt power flakes getting underneth the extractor. That is a sure fire way of causing what you describe. Also, check your moon clips to insure that they are all flat and in good condition.

 

[whelenshooter]

The centerfire revolvers I shoot the most use moon clips, either the 6-shot for the .45 ACP revolvers, or 8-shot with .38 Special or .357 Magnum for my Model 627. It is amazing how small of a grain of powder (or other crud) under the ejector star will tie up the gun! The other things that can tie it up are high primers, a bent moon clip, a case with an out-of-specification rim thickness, and an ejector rod that has unscrewed itself. If you don't find one of these things, it is time to talk to Smith & Wesson or someone with more experience than me.

Good luck!

 

[vmtz]

I had the same problem when I first got my 625. Turns out that the torsion hand spring with the long end in the trigger. It ended up bending the spring, replaced the spring and no problems since.

Vince

 

[ShrinkMD]

After the last range trip, I've been dry firing it, and I notice that on 2 of the cylinders there is a noticeable "catch" when firing double action. If you are staging the trigger, you can feel it really stop, and require some additional effort for the trigger to break. On the other 4 cylinders it is nice and smooth.

Should I bother sending this gun back to S&W again? What would I ask them to fix? I'm not expecting an action job for free, but clearly 2 of the cylinders are not the same as the others. I have other revolvers from them and they do not exhibit this problem.

I hate to say it, but so far this 625JM has been sort of a lemon.

 

[2hawk]

After the last range trip, I've been dry firing it, and I notice that on 2 of the cylinders there is a noticeable "catch" when firing double action. If you are staging the trigger, you can feel it really stop, and require some additional effort for the trigger to break. On the other 4 cylinders it is nice and smooth.

Should I bother sending this gun back to S&W again? What would I ask them to fix? I'm not expecting an action job for free, but clearly 2 of the cylinders are not the same as the others. I have other revolvers from them and they do not exhibit this problem.

I hate to say it, but so far this 625JM has been sort of a lemon.

Yes, send it back. Call for a shipping tag, explain the situation, and let them have a chance to make it right (I know, they already had a chance, but...)

It's dissappointing and frustrating to have a gun that starts to look like a shuttlecock, but once the factory has had their mitts on it, the best bet is to have them make right, and make sure they know (in a nice, non-aggressive way) that you will not accept less than that.

Good Luck, and I'm sure you'll like your JM once its squared away ;D

 

[ShrinkMD]

I sent it back. The tech on the phone suggested either a "long ratchets" problem or a burr in the cylinder notches. Either way he said they could make it right, and to also note in the letter that it was the second time around. Here's hoping they get it right. I'm really looking forward to shooting this pistol once it is fixed.

It is so cool to be reloading. To think I originally bought this thinking I could shoot crummy Wolf 45 acp for less than the price of brass factory 38 special.

 

[K1500]

I sent it back. The tech on the phone suggested either a "long ratchets" problem or a burr in the cylinder notches. Either way he said they could make it right, and to also note in the letter that it was the second time around. Here's hoping they get it right. I'm really looking forward to shooting this pistol once it is fixed.

It is so cool to be reloading. To think I originally bought this thinking I could shoot crummy Wolf 45 acp for less than the price of brass factory 38 special.

Good luck with the repair, and keep sending it back until they fix it. My 329pd has been back 3 times. I hope it doesn't have to go back again, the thing is racking up some serious frequent flier miles. It does appear they have fixed it this time, but I will see this weekend.

 

[minconrevo]

I sent it back. The tech on the phone suggested either a "long ratchets" problem or a burr in the cylinder notches. . . .

It very well could be once the sloppy yoke fit problem was corrected the ratchet fit issue appeared, as it was there all along, just not apparent. The hand carry up to each ratchet has to be just right for the action to stage correctly, as well as to not have the "hard" feel.

Check the cylinder for end shake back and forth. Insert empty cases in the cylinder, close cylinder into frame and then check for fore and aft shake of cylinder. .001" or less is desired.

If the metal coating on the side of the hammer or trigger is being scraped off, that's a common problem. It is caused by a tad of side to side slop in either/both. If they aren't centered up in the frame slots, the scrapping will commence. It can be fixed with Powers bushings available direct from Power Custom or from Brownells. Sometimes it only takes 1 or 2 bushings.

 

[scott625b]

For David Sinko, Have you measured the RIMZ clips in the area of the head-spacing section? I think you will be surprised at the inaccuracy of your post. A standard moonclip is supposed to be 1mm (.039") thick. The head-spacing section of the RIMZ clip is .037-.038" thick. What is thicker is the section of the RIMZ that basically floats in the space that is normally unused.