625PC Hammer weight Adjusting

[Pdxrealtor]

Hammer trimmed. I completely forgot to weigh it before and after, but I took a good amount off. Then polished it.

Hoping I get some benefits from this, but if not I planned to do it anyways for carry purposes.

 

[andyo5]

Yes, that is reasonable and is the way I do it. Also the way Jerry Miculek does it (I saw a video on his website). Be aware that double action will be the first mode to fail if you go too far in shortening the screw length. Also be aware that CCI primers are among the hardest available. Use Federal primers if you want to get a light trigger pull. They are softer.
I have found 13 pound rebound springs to be right for most of my guns. A 12 pound spring might make the trigger too slow to return. The trigger should follow your finger in fast double action shooting. You should not have to wait for the trigger to return to start position.

 

[tomcatt51]

Quote:
"In any event it seems you're saying that with the reduced power main spring and longer strain screw in the end you'll end up with better geometry than the standard weight spring and a bit shorter strain screw."

Correct.

You need the reduced power spring for its' static arch, or you can bend the arch into a stock spring. A longer strain screw you may or may not need but a longer strain screw can be backed out or shortened. In any case it will give you a range of adjustment while setting your hammer fall for reliable ignition. That is where you start.

Rebound will be based on how much mainspring you have.

FWIW the difference between a Wolff standard and reduced power mainspring is just the amount of arch.

 

[Pdxrealtor]

Yes, that is reasonable and is the way I do it. Also the way Jerry Miculek does it (I saw a video on his website). Be aware that double action will be the first mode to fail if you go too far in shortening the screw length. Also be aware that CCI primers are among the hardest available. Use Federal primers if you want to get a light trigger pull. They are softer.
I have found 13 pound rebound springs to be right for most of my guns. A 12 pound spring might make the trigger too slow to return. The trigger should follow your finger in fast double action shooting. You should not have to wait for the trigger to return to start position.

lol.... Tomcatt does light spring and tighter screw. Gets my mind made up, then you come along and completely spin my OCD brain. Awesome...



I ordered all the possibilities so I'll get it one way or the other. I'm tempted to go with the standard length and back the screw out a tad (a set screw not the OEM screw). But who knows. Right now I'm going to wait for the stuff to arrive from Wolff, and tune my gun with the OEM main, and a new set screw with a 13# rebound spring.

 

[tomcatt51]

Hammer trimmed...Hoping I get some benefits from this...

Any weight you remove is a benefit. More is better. Mine are all DAO.

 

[Pdxrealtor]

Any weight you remove is a benefit. More is better. Mine are all DAO.

Carry gun. I want the option to get in SA mode should I be in the back of a movie theater, cornered, and have the opportunity to potentially save mine and others butts from a distance. Or a like situation.

My j-frame is a 649, with the bobbed but cockable hammer. It's next on the tune up list. I'm really having fun with these revolvers!

 

[tomcatt51]

I ordered all the possibilities so I'll get it one way or the other. I'm tempted to go with the standard length and back the screw out a tad (a set screw not the OEM screw). But who knows.

Reread post #78. Have fun playing. It's how you learn.

 

[andyo5]

lol.... Tomcatt does light spring and tighter screw. Gets my mind made up, then you come along and completely spin my OCD brain. Awesome...



I ordered all the possibilities so I'll get it one way or the other. I'm tempted to go with the standard length and back the screw out a tad (a set screw not the OEM screw). But who knows. Right now I'm going to wait for the stuff to arrive from Wolff, and tune my gun with the OEM main, and a new set screw with a 13# rebound spring.

I never had any luck with the Wolff power rib mainspring. It gave me light strikes. All my own work was with the factory mainspring and reduced strain screw length plus Wolff 13 or 14 lb rebound spring. You may want to grind one or both ends of the rebound spring flat. The factory spring is flat on both ends. It makes it much easier to install.

 

[Pdxrealtor]

Reread post #78. Have fun playing. It's how you learn.

 

[Pdxrealtor]

I never had any luck with the Wolff power rib mainspring. It gave me light strikes. All my own work was with the factory mainspring and reduced strain screw length plus Wolff 13 or 14 lb rebound spring. You may want to grind one or both ends of the rebound spring flat. The factory spring is flat on both ends. It makes it much easier to install.

Reduced weight or standard weight?

 

[tomcatt51]

I never had any luck with the Wolff power rib mainspring. It gave me light strikes.

That sounds sooo familiar. See post #76.

 

[Pdxrealtor]

Wanted to give an update - I got the Wolf reduced weight mainspring in, and the 12# rebound spring. Used a hardened 8-32 set screw with a self made notch for reference.

As shown above I've removed a good amount of hammer spur.

Went to the range last night and had immediate failures in the low to mid 7 lb range.

Gave the mainspring screw a 1/4 turn and continued through 50 Freedom Munitions, 14 WWB, 14 Buffalo Bore, and 14 Barnes bullets. I had one failure to fire on a Buffalo Bore. I'm chalking that up to a random until I can get another one to fail. I won't be carrying the BB anyways as I prefer the Barnes all copper bullet and better ignition it's known for having

The pull weight in DA is 7 lb 12 oz - 7 lb 14-oz. SA pull weight is 2 lbs 5 oz every single time.

I thought about the 11lb rebound spring, but I'm not sure about the safety issues mentioned earlier in this thread. I'll likely leave the 12 lb spring in unless I can be convinced otherwise.

I did some rapid fire and the trigger keeps up no problem. A side from that I don't know how to balance the pull / rebound a side from feel. It feels OK to me. Better than my worked over CZ handguns as a matter of fact.

One last thing I did was go over the top of the trigger hook, and down around the radius, with some 1500 grit, and also lightly on the DA piece connected to the hammer that rides on that surface.

I had a slight 'bump' or 'increased pull weight' in the last portion of the DA pull that was either a result of the main spring geometry or the lack of polishing above mentioned parts. Likely the latter....

In any event the pull is simply fantastic now. No variation from beginning to end, and very predictable break with no added weight just prior to the break.

I'm open to any suggestions on going to the 11# spring or staying where I am now.

Also open to suggestions on some factory ammo known for tough primers.

This thread has been an excellent source of information. I hope my additions combined with others will help the next guy do this correctly. It is so very worth it!

 

[tomcatt51]

I'm open to any suggestions on going to the 11# spring or staying where I am now.

Try one. See how it feels. If it doesn't work with what you've done go back to the 12 lb spring and you'll have learned something and lost nothing.

My 7 1/2 lb "fires everything" guns use 12 lb rebound springs. My lighter, 5 1/2 lb guns run 11 lb springs with coils clipped. My 617 (rimfire) at 7 - 8 lbs runs a clipped 11 lb rebound spring.

 

[Pdxrealtor]

Try one. See how it feels. If it doesn't work with what you've done go back to the 12 lb spring and you'll have learned something and lost nothing.

My 7 1/2 lb "fires everything" guns use 12 lb rebound springs. My lighter, 5 1/2 lb guns run 11 lb springs with coils clipped. My 617 (rimfire) at 7 - 8 lbs runs a clipped 11 lb rebound spring.

I'm more concerned about the safety issues RE: the rebound slide that were mentioned earlier in this thread.

If I understand correctly, the 11 lb may work fine now, may not. Or, it may work fine now but after some wear cause safety issues.

Only thing that would help with this is a lightened hammer. But how do I know if my hammer has been lightened enough?

Am I understanding correctly?

 

[tomcatt51]

I'm more concerned about the safety issues RE: the rebound slide that were mentioned earlier in this thread.

If the trigger resets, the hammer is back and is on its' "hump" on the rebound slide and the hammer block is in position. To get really light DA pulls we devote considerable effort to ensure the trigger resets with light rebound springs. The gun can't be fired again until it does reset.

Fact is, after firing the gun you have a fired case under the firing pin until you cock the hammer or pull the trigger again. The only "trigger reset issue" is that you can't fire the gun again until it does...

Of course there are those who insist the sky will fall... there are also many who insist replacing the original strain screw or not having it "fully tightened" will also cause the sky to fall...

Your gun, you decide.

 

[armorer951]

Not trying to play "Chicken Little" here, and it is "your gun", but it seems a rather reckless course of action to pursue conditioning and reconfiguring of internal parts and springs to the point that can only be catagorized as "experimental", particularly on a revolver that will be used as a "carry gun".....if I read the earlier post correctly, something about you wanting to preserve the hammer spur so that you could shoot SA in a hypothetical scenario in which you were "in the back of a movie theater, cornered"?? (#86)

Sounds like a prescription for a possible accident in the making....owner produced internal modifications including a 12 pound (or perhaps 11 pound) rebound spring and a sub 2.5 pound single action trigger pull in a carry gun?

In an all DA range gun? Perhaps.

Safe, reliable and suitable to be utilized as a carry gun?

Yikes

 

[tomcatt51]

Sounds like a prescription for possible accident in the making....a 12 pound rebound spring and a sub 2.5 pound single action trigger pull?
Safe, reliable and suitable to be utilized as a carry gun?

Have to say I agree about the SA pull on a carry gun. The light SA is a by product of a light DA pull. I'm not convinced a nice crisp 4+ lb SA pull with no take up is good in high stress situations either. I "fix" this by bobbing hammers and making them DAO. Makes them much harder to make a mistake with...

 

[Pdxrealtor]

CZ has shops that sell complete kits for carry guns. They place the DA/SA pull at mid 7 and mid 2 lb range. Maybe that's abnormal..... I don't know.

That's a semi-auto - shoot it once and it defaults to SA mode. A revolver has to be cocked.

Just saying....

 

[Pdxrealtor]

If the trigger resets, the hammer is back and is on its' "hump" on the rebound slide and the hammer block is in position. To get really light DA pulls we devote considerable effort to ensure the trigger resets with light rebound springs. The gun can't be fired again until it does reset.

Fact is, after firing the gun you have a fired case under the firing pin until you cock the hammer or pull the trigger again. The only "trigger reset issue" is that you can't fire the gun again until it does...

Of course there are those who insist the sky will fall... there are also many who insist replacing the original strain screw or not having it "fully tightened" will also cause the sky to fall...

Your gun, you decide.

I need more range time with different kinds of ammo as well.

 

[tomcatt51]

That's a semi-auto - shoot it once and it defaults to SA mode. A revolver has to be cocked.

Just saying....

A SA semi-auto trigger has some take up before engaging the sear unlike a revolver which (after you make the mistake of cocking it) has none and any trigger movement is a bang. It's very unforgiving under stress unlike a semi-autos trigger with take up before break or the relatively long pull of striker fired guns.