tomcatt51
Member
That sounds sooo familiar. See post #76.
625PC Hammer weight Adjusting
- Thread starter Bearbait in NM
- Start date
That sounds sooo familiar. See post #76.
Pdxrealtor
Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Messages
- 492
- Reaction score
- 178
Wanted to give an update - I got the Wolf reduced weight mainspring in, and the 12# rebound spring. Used a hardened 8-32 set screw with a self made notch for reference.
As shown above I've removed a good amount of hammer spur.
Went to the range last night and had immediate failures in the low to mid 7 lb range.
Gave the mainspring screw a 1/4 turn and continued through 50 Freedom Munitions, 14 WWB, 14 Buffalo Bore, and 14 Barnes bullets. I had one failure to fire on a Buffalo Bore. I'm chalking that up to a random until I can get another one to fail. I won't be carrying the BB anyways as I prefer the Barnes all copper bullet and better ignition it's known for having
The pull weight in DA is 7 lb 12 oz - 7 lb 14-oz. SA pull weight is 2 lbs 5 oz every single time.
I thought about the 11lb rebound spring, but I'm not sure about the safety issues mentioned earlier in this thread. I'll likely leave the 12 lb spring in unless I can be convinced otherwise.
I did some rapid fire and the trigger keeps up no problem. A side from that I don't know how to balance the pull / rebound a side from feel. It feels OK to me. Better than my worked over CZ handguns as a matter of fact.
One last thing I did was go over the top of the trigger hook, and down around the radius, with some 1500 grit, and also lightly on the DA piece connected to the hammer that rides on that surface.
I had a slight 'bump' or 'increased pull weight' in the last portion of the DA pull that was either a result of the main spring geometry or the lack of polishing above mentioned parts. Likely the latter....
In any event the pull is simply fantastic now. No variation from beginning to end, and very predictable break with no added weight just prior to the break.
I'm open to any suggestions on going to the 11# spring or staying where I am now.
Also open to suggestions on some factory ammo known for tough primers.
This thread has been an excellent source of information. I hope my additions combined with others will help the next guy do this correctly. It is so very worth it!
As shown above I've removed a good amount of hammer spur.
Went to the range last night and had immediate failures in the low to mid 7 lb range.
Gave the mainspring screw a 1/4 turn and continued through 50 Freedom Munitions, 14 WWB, 14 Buffalo Bore, and 14 Barnes bullets. I had one failure to fire on a Buffalo Bore. I'm chalking that up to a random until I can get another one to fail. I won't be carrying the BB anyways as I prefer the Barnes all copper bullet and better ignition it's known for having
The pull weight in DA is 7 lb 12 oz - 7 lb 14-oz. SA pull weight is 2 lbs 5 oz every single time.
I thought about the 11lb rebound spring, but I'm not sure about the safety issues mentioned earlier in this thread. I'll likely leave the 12 lb spring in unless I can be convinced otherwise.
I did some rapid fire and the trigger keeps up no problem. A side from that I don't know how to balance the pull / rebound a side from feel. It feels OK to me. Better than my worked over CZ handguns as a matter of fact.
One last thing I did was go over the top of the trigger hook, and down around the radius, with some 1500 grit, and also lightly on the DA piece connected to the hammer that rides on that surface.
I had a slight 'bump' or 'increased pull weight' in the last portion of the DA pull that was either a result of the main spring geometry or the lack of polishing above mentioned parts. Likely the latter....
In any event the pull is simply fantastic now. No variation from beginning to end, and very predictable break with no added weight just prior to the break.
I'm open to any suggestions on going to the 11# spring or staying where I am now.
Also open to suggestions on some factory ammo known for tough primers.
This thread has been an excellent source of information. I hope my additions combined with others will help the next guy do this correctly. It is so very worth it!
Last edited:
tomcatt51
Member
Try one. See how it feels. If it doesn't work with what you've done go back to the 12 lb spring and you'll have learned something and lost nothing.
My 7 1/2 lb "fires everything" guns use 12 lb rebound springs. My lighter, 5 1/2 lb guns run 11 lb springs with coils clipped. My 617 (rimfire) at 7 - 8 lbs runs a clipped 11 lb rebound spring.
Pdxrealtor
Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Messages
- 492
- Reaction score
- 178
I'm more concerned about the safety issues RE: the rebound slide that were mentioned earlier in this thread.
If I understand correctly, the 11 lb may work fine now, may not. Or, it may work fine now but after some wear cause safety issues.
Only thing that would help with this is a lightened hammer. But how do I know if my hammer has been lightened enough?
Am I understanding correctly?
tomcatt51
Member
If the trigger resets, the hammer is back and is on its' "hump" on the rebound slide and the hammer block is in position. To get really light DA pulls we devote considerable effort to ensure the trigger resets with light rebound springs. The gun can't be fired again until it does reset.
Fact is, after firing the gun you have a fired case under the firing pin until you cock the hammer or pull the trigger again. The only "trigger reset issue" is that you can't fire the gun again until it does...
Of course there are those who insist the sky will fall... there are also many who insist replacing the original strain screw or not having it "fully tightened" will also cause the sky to fall...
Your gun, you decide.
Not trying to play "Chicken Little" here, and it is "your gun", but it seems a rather reckless course of action to pursue conditioning and reconfiguring of internal parts and springs to the point that can only be catagorized as "experimental", particularly on a revolver that will be used as a "carry gun".....if I read the earlier post correctly, something about you wanting to preserve the hammer spur so that you could shoot SA in a hypothetical scenario in which you were "in the back of a movie theater, cornered"?? (#86)
Sounds like a prescription for a possible accident in the making....owner produced internal modifications including a 12 pound (or perhaps 11 pound) rebound spring and a sub 2.5 pound single action trigger pull in a carry gun?
In an all DA range gun? Perhaps.
Safe, reliable and suitable to be utilized as a carry gun?
Yikes
Sounds like a prescription for a possible accident in the making....owner produced internal modifications including a 12 pound (or perhaps 11 pound) rebound spring and a sub 2.5 pound single action trigger pull in a carry gun?
In an all DA range gun? Perhaps.
Safe, reliable and suitable to be utilized as a carry gun?
Yikes
Last edited:
tomcatt51
Member
Have to say I agree about the SA pull on a carry gun. The light SA is a by product of a light DA pull. I'm not convinced a nice crisp 4+ lb SA pull with no take up is good in high stress situations either. I "fix" this by bobbing hammers and making them DAO. Makes them much harder to make a mistake with...
Last edited:
Pdxrealtor
Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Messages
- 492
- Reaction score
- 178
CZ has shops that sell complete kits for carry guns. They place the DA/SA pull at mid 7 and mid 2 lb range. Maybe that's abnormal..... I don't know.
That's a semi-auto - shoot it once and it defaults to SA mode. A revolver has to be cocked.
Just saying....
That's a semi-auto - shoot it once and it defaults to SA mode. A revolver has to be cocked.
Just saying....
Pdxrealtor
Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Messages
- 492
- Reaction score
- 178
I need more range time with different kinds of ammo as well.
tomcatt51
Member
A SA semi-auto trigger has some take up before engaging the sear unlike a revolver which (after you make the mistake of cocking it) has none and any trigger movement is a bang. It's very unforgiving under stress unlike a semi-autos trigger with take up before break or the relatively long pull of striker fired guns.
OP
Bearbait in NM
Member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2014
- Messages
- 159
- Reaction score
- 41
Well, I was not planning a 2 year update necessarily, but my gun had other ideas. Exactly as Tom had noted earlier on, my factory stainless strain screw has caused me some problems.
The last couple of years, shooting several thousands rounds, have been perfect. Recently, I started to see an occasional light primer strike. I also seemed to feel that the gun was getting smoother. Turns out the nose of the strain screw has gotten a little flattened. And, the sides of the ribs on my hammer spring are a little deformed at the point where the screw bears. Not smoother, but certainly lighter.
I installed a wider target trigger on the gun a few months after I started this thread, so I do not an exact before poundage number, but if my notes are correct, it seems I have lost about half to 3/4's of a pound on my DA trigger pull weight.
Off to the sack of 8-32 screws I picked up at Tom's suggestion, way back when, that I neglected to fit.....way back when.
Craig
The last couple of years, shooting several thousands rounds, have been perfect. Recently, I started to see an occasional light primer strike. I also seemed to feel that the gun was getting smoother. Turns out the nose of the strain screw has gotten a little flattened. And, the sides of the ribs on my hammer spring are a little deformed at the point where the screw bears. Not smoother, but certainly lighter.
I installed a wider target trigger on the gun a few months after I started this thread, so I do not an exact before poundage number, but if my notes are correct, it seems I have lost about half to 3/4's of a pound on my DA trigger pull weight.
Off to the sack of 8-32 screws I picked up at Tom's suggestion, way back when, that I neglected to fit.....way back when.
Craig
