627-0 Model of 1989 Question for a S&W Expert

Hushko

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
8
Reaction score
2
Greetings all. I have a technical question for anyone who has an expertise on the internals of S&W revolvers, especially the N-Frame and more specifically, the 627-0 Model of 1989 which is a special production N-Frame .357 with the un-fluted cylinder. I've worked on Smiths over the years, but have never seen this situation before. Any input would be greatly appreciated. On this particular revolver, I've noticed upon disassembly that the hand which slides onto the trigger assembly is separate from the pivot pin. Ordinarily, the hand has a pivot pin that is integral (attached), and it would be inserted into the trigger while the small pin passes through the slot in the trigger and is spring loaded. The hand in my situation is separate from the pivot pin and is instead attached to the trigger, with a single punch indent on the opposite side of the trigger that stakes the pin to the trigger. The opposite end of the pin that the hand slips onto is peened flat, creating a larger diameter overhang (like the hammer end of a punch that's been peened over) to provide a ledge for the hand to keep it in place during assembly. Of course, since the peened end of the pin creates a larger outside diameter, the hole in the hand is also larger so that it can pass over the peened surface to its final resting place on the pivot pin. Needless to say, since the pivot pin outside diameter is smaller than the inside diameter of the hole in the hand, it creates an awfully sloppy fit. When the revolver is fully assembled, the setup works perfectly fine. However, in the back of my mind it just doesn't seem right. Therefore, does anyone know if this is typical of this model, or if somewhere along the way the pivot pin has been broken off of the hand? Thanks in advance for your input. I've included a couple of pics. The first pic is from Midway's website of a typical N-Frame hand with an integral pin. The second pic is of my parts.
hand2.jpg

trigger1.jpg
 
Register to hide this ad
That is the dreadfull "floating hand". Sometimes they work ok, sometimes they drive you nuts. Good thing is you can drift the pivot pin out of the trigger and use a normal hand.
 
That is the dreadfull "floating hand". Sometimes they work ok, sometimes they drive you nuts. Good thing is you can drift the pivot pin out of the trigger and use a normal hand.
That explains it! Thanks for clearing that up - your expertise is much appreciated. Is there any benefit to using one over the other? Or, is it a matter of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"? Thanks and Happy New Year.
 
I replace them as soon as I find them. They seem to create a hitch in the double action pull about halfway through. I shoot all double action, so it makes a big difference to me. if you have the capacity and the parts, it is easy to do. If not, just shoot it until it becomes a problem to you.
 
It was an idea to fix up the sing on the revolver and it didn't work. As the internals get dirty the floating hand stops floating and locks in 1 position, the result is a gun that doesn't carry up. I think the floating hands lasted only 1 year, maybe 2 tops before being dropped.
 
Thanks for all the info on the floating hand. This was a real education on this design. I'll probably swap it out for a hand with an integral pivot pin. I see that Brownell's offers both a standard and an oversized hand for the N-frame. Typically, is the standard part a true drop-in item or is there usually some fitting required? Happy New Year to all!
 
Hushko, when you need a few thousandths added to the corner of that new hand, ( that somehow mysteriously got stoned away in shipping ) or on one or more of the extractor star ratchets....let me know, the laser is waiting!
 
Back
Top