629 explodes

[Gun 4 Fun]

This is the last picture I have. Is there a view that some of you who know what you are talking about would like to see? I could probably post that next week sometime. I will not have access to a computer that can send pictures this weekend.
I plan on replacing my revolver with another stainless 6" barrel .44 mag. I am torn between the Ruger Redhawk 5.5 inch and another 629 6 inch. I am not sure about which generation I should be looking at. While researching this forum there seem to be some that love the old ones and some that love the new ones. I don't think I am worried about a lock. I will iunlock it and leave it unlocked forever. Is that possible?

You can totally remove the lock. There's a board member here who makes a filler plug for the hole left in the side of the frame after removing the lock. I'd avoid the two piece barrel models though.

I would like to see a shot down the inside of the bore if that is possible for you to do.

I clicked on your picture, then clicked again which opens it in a new window, then clicked yet again and scrolled after that to really enlarge it. There does seem to be some sort of discoloration at the start of the tear where the frame let loose over the barrel shank. Most of the tear is a dark grey, but the start of the tear on either side is a sort of yellowish color. That's kind of strange. It could just be the picture, but I find it odd that it is in the same place on either side, and then yellowish color runs about the same distance towards the front on each side as well.

If there were a problem with the frame, that still would have nothing to do with the cylinder letting loose.....unless there was a metallurgical problem with the entire gun.


I'm still going with bad reload.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

A bet I'll make

Oh, for the record, since I'm a gambler (poker player) I'll wager 8 to 5 it's an overcharge and not metallurgical. Any takers?

***GRJ***

 

[Gunhacker]

I've heard it and read it many times about the downside of where the bolt notches in a S&W cylinder are cut, at the thinnest part, and not offset like Ruger... but my god, I never imagined it was THAT thin... clearly illustrated in the pics.

I'm sure there are all sort of engineering considerations that makes it ok, and they are at a location on cartridge brass walls where it's the thickest, but visually it looks amazing to me.

I for one appreciate the OP taking the time and effort to stick with the posting... the pics serve as a stark reminder to both newcomers and grizzled old fart veterans (of which I'm a card carrying member) that with reloading, never let yourself become complacent from experience or let your guard down.

After an experience with my cousin (also an experienced shooter/reloader) and I cranking out a few hundred rounds of .45 Colt during one of our weekend "bulk" reloading sessions... and discovering at the range that he got distracted by our jabbering and seated some bullets in primed only cases... I made it a cardinal rule that reloading is not a "group/spectator sport".

Distractions are eliminated as much as possible, including no radio/TV/iPod while at the reloading bench. No reloading while tired or when my mind/heart isn't in it... better off shelling out the bucks for expensive factory ammo, and cheaper than a gun or fingers, eyes, etc...

 

[johnbeaver]

So, why did the topstrap tear off so raggedy over the barrel and so smoothly at the rear sight?
Don't think it had anything to do with the failure, just looks strange.

 

[BJoe]

If you don't see a hole in the target just keep pulling the trigger.

 

[BJoe]

I call BS on this one....

I agree 100%. Guy joins, wait's SIX MONTHS TO POST, blows up an expensive gun just for attention. What else could it be?

 

[*chris*]

That is just an astounding failure, look how the top strap just ripped! What powder were these loaded with so I can stay away from it? I use 296 now and it more or less fills the case.

I will bring my 5" 629 to the range tomorrow and fire it in memory if yours!

Chris

 

[viceunit]

I once had a squib in a model 29-2, with the bullet jammed right in the barrel to cylinder gap, rendering the gun unable to fire the next shot. Good thing the bullet did not make it further down the bore because that squib round did not fully get my attention. I would have likely squeezed off another shot had the cylinder been able to rotate. Being a newbie (with a 44 magnum, of all things) it could have been a disaster. At the least, the gun would have likely been seriously damaged. This was about 35 years ago. I still remember that the squib did cause the gun to recoil, so I thought nothing of it until the cylinder would not open. They were my reloads, and I obviously made a powder charging mistake. I got lucky that the bullet stopped where it did. I was much more cautious after that near disaster.

I wonder if the OP had a bullet stuck in the forcing cone past the cylinder gap since he said there was no hole in the target, but no bulge in the barrel? Certainly a round fired on top of that could have caused this explosion, without it being a double or over charge?

 

[Gunhacker]

If you don't see a hole in the target just keep pulling the trigger.

Awww heck... just cut that 'ol barrel off flush right before the last stuck bullet... then it will be one fine "sheriff's model" and without all of that extra barrel, squibs will no longer be a problem, will it??

Wow... that just boggles my mind that someone would manage to fill their barrel like that.

 

[thardgrave]

When I first started re-loading, in my early 20'a, around 1963, I clearly remember being taught to always use a flashlight to look closely into each case, to be sure there is not an obvious over or double charge. Another rule was to always load alone, and with no distractions of any kind...no tv, etc.
Is there any way you could ask the person who loaded those "trusted" re-loads just what powder he normally used? Like others have suggested, it must have been one of those types that only partially fill the case......

 

[Nevada Ed]

He did say he shoots a "Friends" reloads..........

Yea or Nay........still hate to see a quality weapon "Die".

Hard to hear those "Bloopers" with ear muffs or plugs........
Still nice to know that the design and safety features work to keep most shooters from major harm !!

 

[cal50]

Looks like a classic double charge of fast powder.

I shoot robust loads ( magnum) in my wheel guns and the slow powders used can generally fill a case (hard if not impossible to double charge and seat a bullet). ANYTIME a low loading density powder is used and a case can be double charged extra attention to detail when loading should be used. A lot of people try to use hotter powder to save money ( more rounds per pound) or fire light loads but it also comes with bad consequences if a mistake is made.

Its easier to replace ANY revolver than a missing eye or fingers.
Glad no one was injured.

 

[Edmo]

OP, keep us posted on what S&W says. I'm expecting them to not replace the gun, but sometimes companies do thing in the interest of customer relations. Maybe they'll give you a deal on a replacement. Regardless, to echo everyone else - it is good to hear you didn't get hurt.

Reference Shooting Reloads: Years ago while shooting reloads through one of my 1911s, one round in the string of fire only replied with a "click" instead of the expected bang.

I racked the slide and anticipated a full dud round with a dented primer fall to the ground, however an empty case came out! Additionally, the next round chambered when I let the slide go.

I cleared the weapon and upon inspection I found the bullet was stuck in the barrel just deep enough to allow the next round to chamber. If I had pulled the trigger on that next round it would have been quite interesting.

Moral? I learned to pay more attention both when reloading and shooting. Attention to detail in all steps of the reloading process is essential. I added additional steps to my reloading process to catch incorrect powder loads. Additionally, If the gun doesn't go bang when it should... STOP! Inspect it for problems before you get back on target.

OBTW, I guess the OP really wasn't a troll. Fancy that!!

Edmo

 

[PA Guns & Ammo]

I do not reload but for those who do, maybe you can answer my question. Is it possible to reload one round without the powder and the next round to load it with to shots of powder?

James

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

I do not reload but for those who do, maybe you can answer my question. Is it possible to reload one round without the powder and the next round to load it with to shots of powder?

James

On a single stage press, not likely. On a progressive press, it's a very real possibility if you don't pay attention.

 

[cbr600f3]

That's scary looking, glad you were not hurt. I reload for my .300 rum, .223 and as soon as i get the dies i will reload for my .500. This thread will make me pay much more attention to reloading and i already take it extremely seriously. I had bought some reloads for my beretta m9 at the lgs, a friend was firing the weapon when it decided not to accept any more rounds, turned out a bullet had stopped just after entering barrel not allowing next round in. I no longer buy reloads, would never shoot one that i did not personally reload either.

 

[Roadtrash]

I love to reload but I never buy reloads and never reload for someone else although I have been asked to do so many times. It would be hard to handle if one of my reloads blew up someones gun and they lost an eye or something.

 

[RoGrrr]

Having loaded many, MANY shotshells, I understand squibs, which is how I describe a shell with no powder. This invariably lodges the wad in the barrel. Also, it will not cycle the bolt in an autoloader. The shot simply flops out of the barrel and you can see it as it goes less than 30 yards.

What I fail to understand in a pistol squib is how the load can operate the slide. To me, that would be indicative of a shell with only a partial charge and (I believe) the projectile would be pushed out of the barrel.

What am I missing ?

When someone mentions that they are considering buying a progressive (GAWD, I hate that liberal word) loader, my recommendation is not the Dillon 550 but one like a Dillon 650 that AUTOMATICALLY advances the shell plate. This way, there is little chance of a double charge of powder. Especially, newbies get distracted (information overload and confusion) and invariably forget to do something (like advance the shell plate) and can get a double charge. Some people claim that a 650 is TOO COMPLEX for the noob but having lots of mileage on shotshells, I understand that, too but consider both sides of the learning curve and prefer to err on the side of less for the operator to do if the machine can do it instead.

Granted, reloading parties get distractive, allowing for errors to birth. The closest I come to reloading parties is when a friend comes over to load his components on my loader. This is my way of reducing the liability of someone not shooting MY reloads in their gun. I have him look up the load in my Lyman Manual and weigh out the charge on a digital scale to set it up. Even someone who has never loaded a shell can turn out quality loads while I'm standing there watching their every move and explaining things to them and asking why they did "that" before they pull the handle again.

GRJ/Yoda
Am I thinking along the correct legal lines, allowing them to load on my machine, when it comes to avoiding liabilities ?

RoGrrr/Ree

 

[gizamo]

Was H 110 or W296 the powder used in these reloads...?

 

[DR505]

Was H 110 or W296 the powder used in these reloads...?

According to my Nosler #7 Reloading Guide, the starting recommended loads for both H110 and W296 both nearly fill the case, using a Nosler 240 grain JHP or JSP. It would be hard to double that as the powder would have spilled all over.

Now if it was filled with less than a recommended starting charge, that can cause pressure problems as well. Reloading your own has some nuances that must be appreciated.