642 Question

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S&W web site has this.

Features
• Lightweight alloy frame for easy carry
• Stainless steel barrel and cylinder
• Snag-Free enclosed hammer
• Rated for continuous +P Use
• NO INTERNAL LOCK

I can pick up a new one for $399 and have a lot of Remington UMC white box 125 grain +P 38 Special ammo. Are they really good for mass rounds of factory +P?

I'd like to make this my carry weapon if I buy it.
 
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642

The word continuous may have to be diagnosed. I have one with a CT Laser that has well over 500 rds std +P downrange and it still shoots to point of aim at 15 yds.

I'm not sure if I want to shoot more than 50 or so at a time she's a little snappy. But I have no doubt it would handle it fine.

Long term I have no doubt it will stay together.

Dan :)
 
You may find that it'll take a while to shoot up a case of +p ammo: the limiting factor will be your tolerance for snappy recoil.

You'll wear out before the gun.

You may find 158 gr standard pressure loads shoot more to point of aim.
 
I have Crimson Trace LG-350 grips on my M&P 340 and my wife's 642. Shooting .38 +p is very comfortable with those grips.

However, I would not want to shoot an entire box of anything with either of those revolvers if it had the stock grips.

Of course YMMV
 
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The 642 is a good carry gun. I have a 637 with the hammer spur bobbed that is my daily bug and my sometime carry depending on the situation. It weighs the same as the 642 and when I go to the range I usually shoot a hundred rounds or more through it.

However, these are my reloads and not +p ammo. I would advise getting some standard pressure ammo and mixed your +p rated ammo in with that at the range. Otherwise, the +p ammo might wear you out over a range day.
 
You ask a good Q and this is the best place to get the answers. I carry +P in all my light J frame guns but practice w/standard pressure. Then I'll run a cylinder or two of +P down range just to ensure I keep in practice but I've done this for years and the guns still fun fine.
 
If you end up purchasing the 642, I would pay close attention to the finish on the aluminum frame, in terms of regular maintenance.....especially in the area under the grips. The clear coat finish is not very resistant to de-lamination and damage. The 442 would hold up better in terms of the finish. (caution-this is only my opinion)

Also, in view of some recent, well documented quality control issues on these particular j-frames, I would carefully check a new gun for action issues, like long ratchets, and for an improperly aligned barrel. Apparently some noticeable over/under clocking, or misalignment is now acceptable. As always, be sure to give the new gun the once-over, and try to rule out any obvious defects before purchasing.
 
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Great choice. I own two and it's my go-to EDC most of the time. I also own an old beater 442 that I use for most of my training. I carry +P(corbon DPX), but primarily train with cheaper standard pressure ammo although I do run a fair amount of +P through it and it has held up fine.
 
They make two versions of the 642. The dash 1 (642-1), and a dash 2 (642-2). I cant remember which is which but the only difference I believe is one is with and the other with OUT the internal lock.

If buying on line I woild print out the ad and all indicating the no lock cersion in the event they send you the wrong model WITH lock. At least then you habe proof to back your argument of the bait and switch. It would be an easy mistake for someone to grab the wrong model by mistake.

Grab a fun the other day was advertising a 642 for I think $305. But I am Not sure if it was a no lock version.
 
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They make two versions of the 642. The dash 1 (642-1), and a dash 2 (642-2). I cant remember which is which but the only difference I believe is one is with and the other with OUT the internal lock.

If buying on line I woild print out the ad and all indicating the no lock cersion in the event they send you the wrong model WITH lock. At least then you habe proof to back your argument of the bait and switch. It would be an easy mistake for someone to grab the wrong model by mistake.

The 642-1 is the no-lock version, the 642-2 is the lock version. If you want to be sure, you can go to S&W's website and get the specific model number (I don't know what it is offhand) and make sure you're ordering the one you want from the dealer.
 
They make two versions of the 642. The dash 1 (642-1), and a dash 2 (642-2). I cant remember which is which but the only difference I believe is one is with and the other with OUT the internal lock.

If buying on line I woild print out the ad and all indicating the no lock cersion in the event they send you the wrong model WITH lock. At least then you habe proof to back your argument of the bait and switch. It would be an easy mistake for someone to grab the wrong model by mistake.

Grab a fun the other day was advertising a 642 for I think $305. But I am Not sure if it was a no lock version.


I ordered it over the phone to make positive sure it was a no lock as advertised. The dude looked up the SKU number on the ad, and checked to make sure. Plus I did a screen shot of the page.

If it has a lock, I'll have my LGS send it back.

Just checked the part number from their site with S&W... 642 NO LOCK.
 
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Continuous means continuous. You'll wear out your hand and wrist long before you wear out the gun. And if something does go wrong somehow, Smith will make it right. As for the lock, other than aesthetics, I've never had a problem and wouldn't hesitate to buy one with a lock today if I were in the market. But, your preference is your preference, and you're right to double check. Enjoy your new gun.
 
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