686-1 M stamped frame hammer bushing

[tony wb]

I am new here, and appreciate any advise. I have the
686-1 M stamped , but I notice the hammer frame bushing was seated slightly turned. The firing pin, doesn't come in contact with it, but I can see the notched bevel in the frame bushing is not all the way vertical. I'm concerned the hammer frame bushing could possibly rotate over time, and obstruct the firing pin, or is it secure, and will never give any problems. The gun functions great, and I don't want to take a chance on a repair that's not really needed. Thank you for any advise.

 

[armorer951]

Depends how far out of spec the bushing is in terms of how far it's off of vertical. To me, this would be a concern in terms of the hammer nose integrity, as the nose may be striking the bushing outside of the cutaway in the bushing.

A photo of the back of the bushing might help judge the level of concern.

Carter

 

[tony wb]

Alright, I'll see if I can figure out how to post a picture. Are thoseframe hammer bushings seated pretty secure? Thank you.

 

[tony wb]

Here is a picture

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Iffen it ain't broke.....Don't fix it.....By your words "it shoots fine".......So forget about it.

 

[tony wb]

The primer strikes are really nice, and centered also.

 

[tony wb]

Also I don't see any evidence of scraping on the hammer nose, or the bushing, but realize they are very hard steel. I suppose the armorer either didn't notice, or felt it was acceptable. I have the M stamped before the model, and above it .

 

[armorer951]

The bushings are staked in place. If you look at the breechface, you'll see a a circular ring around the bushing itself made by the staking tool.
They are very secure if staked correctly.

If you are not carrying the gun, I see no reason to do any more than just keep an eye on it.

If it's a carry gun, I would consider sending your photo to S&W for a second opinion. They may think remove and replace would be best in that case.


S&W bushing seating and staking tools:




S&W hammer nose bushing removal tool:






Carter

 

[tony wb]

I really appreciate your advice, it's not a carry since it's a 6" model. I see the ring on the breech face around the bushing and it's very even, and flush. I probably wouldn't have noticed it, but I've been researching the modification/refit, and you have the best explanation I've read.

 

[tony wb]

I just saw the pics you posted, very cool. I feel a little better seeing how the bushing is tapered, even besides the cutout notch. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[.455_Hunter]

My 6" 28-2 had a bushing that was out of spec (too "short") and would allow primers to back out on Magnum loads. This probably why it was essentially NIB in 1997 when it was an early '70s gun. Local gunsmith was able to replace it and no problems since.

 

[tony wb]

My 686-1 M also has the factory trigger stop which from what I've read, many LE armorers would remove from these models.

 

[tony wb]

It does shoot fine. Thanks

 

[tony wb]

The bushings are staked in place. If you look at the breechface, you'll see a a circular ring around the bushing itself made by the staking tool.
They are very secure if staked correctly.

If you are not carrying the gun, I see no reason to do any more than just keep an eye on it.

If it's a carry gun, I would consider sending your photo to S&W for a second opinion. They may think remove and replace would be best in that case.


S&W bushing seating and staking tools:




S&W hammer nose bushing removal tool:






Carter

I was cleaning my 686-1 and noticed the hammer frame bushing has spun to where I can't see the side notch like in the picture.I lightly tapped the breech face of the bushing, and it's super loose. Rats!!!!! I suppose I should try to contact SW. I wonder if calling around town for an experienced armored would be better. What a bummer.

 

[armorer951]

Typical S&W trained armorers will be familiar with the recall, but will not have the proper tools or the parts to remove/stake a new replacement bushing.

If the hammer nose bushing is moving around in the breechface, I would send it back for the re-fit.

There's no cost involved. If the gun has any other issues, they can deal with those problems while it's there. Be sure to mention any issues in writing when the revolver is returned, and remove aftermarket or valuable grips. And.....don't send the gun back in the original factory box if you have it. You may not get the box back.


Carter

 

[tony wb]

Ok, should I inquire about insuring the pistol, since they pay for Fed-ex ? I was wondering how that works.Man I really appreciate your advice.I was going to send it in the blue box.

 

[tony wb]

Maybe it's not Fed -ex , thought I read that somewhere.

 

[tony wb]

I contacted SW, was told to wait until after hunting season, that it would have to go to Performance Center for repair. Also, if I send it now it'll be about 7 month wait. Wow

 

[tony wb]

I thought about calling back to speak to someone else, but he seemed knowledgeable.

 

[BigMuddy]

I contacted SW, was told to wait until after hunting season, that it would have to go to Performance Center for repair. Also, if I send it now it'll be about 7 month wait. Wow

It's May, what "hunting season" are you supposed to wait to be over??? I think talking to someone else might be a good idea.

Dan

 

[armorer951]

Seems like a lengthy wait time for a 30 minute job.


Carter

 

[Protocall_Design]

I would turn it straight up with a small blade screwdriver, then put some LocTite 290 wicking grade around the stake so it sucks in around the perimeter. Let it sit for a day with the barrel pointing up, and you're good to go. Mop up any excess with a Q tip once it starts to come out the back.

The proper way to fix this is to send it back to the factory for a new bushing. This is a way to make the gun usable until snipe hunting season is over and the factory has time to work on it.

 

[tony wb]

I appreciate all the responses, I thought the same thing when he said "hunting season " and mentioned "since my gun is so old" as reasons why it would take too long. I'll probably call back again for a second conversation with SW.
As far as the glue, would it be better to take the side plate off first to catch any excess? Thanks guys

 

[Protocall_Design]

As far as the glue, would it be better to take the side plate off first to catch any excess? Thanks guys

That would be a good idea.

 

[tony wb]

Spoke to a lady who's been at SW for two years "very nice" said it's first come, first serve" no guarantee things will slow down in the future. Said there's only three or four experienced armorers in the Performance Center, and they are extremely busy with mods, engravings, old gun repairs, etc…and it could take a few months.
Any ideas why my bushing is so loose? I was wondering if they use the same bushing again with a different sleeve around it, or does it require a new bushing?
Hope I'm not boreing you guys.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Since that bushing is loose, they would probably use a new one.

 

[tony wb]

I can literally tap the gun against my hand and make the bushing rotate. I've been reading reviews on the 290 Loctite. I suppose it would void the warranty, but it looks like some good stuff. I tried to get the side plate off to see if I can catch the excess properly , but she's on there good.

 

[tony wb]

Well, after much research, and observations on my gun, It seems the hammer nose has been beating the bushing to death. If the hammer nose is all the way through the bushing, it's tight—no movement.Looks like it will need some filing on the nose to provide a little wiggle room when the hammer is against the frame, and forward through the bushing. Guess I'll try to explain all this to SW , and hope I can communicate the issues. Whoever did the mod, must not have checked for proper clearance of the hammer nose through the bushing. ��

 

[armorer951]

The refit hammer nose bushings provide just enough clearance for the newly installed hammer nose. In fact, the new hammer nose essentially makes it's own clearance at the breechface opening during test firing after installation.

If you look closely at the bottom of the bushing (new, uninstalled) in the attached image, you can see a small "curtain" of material that has been left at the breechface side of the bushing cavity. (this can be seen in the photo of the new bushing in post 8)

The new L-frame refit bushing is, in fact, actually not bored all the way through. The cavity is approx. .065" diameter down to the bottom, and there is a "curtain" of material that is approx. .010" smaller left at the bottom. (breechface side of the cavity)

When the new bushing and hammer nose are installed, and the new hammer nose, which measures approx. .065", hits the bushing, it penetrates through this restricted opening, or curtain. This results in essentially a "press fit" clearance between the new bushing, and the end of the new hammer nose. This insures that there is no opportunity for the primer to be compromised because there is virtually no gauge between the diameter at the end of the hammer nose, and the opening it created in the bushing by impact. Any burrs created on the breechface side of the hammer nose bushing are cleaned up with a file or stone.

Another overlooked and minuscule design detail in the refit parts.






Carter

 

[tony wb]

That's very informative, and interesting. Explains why I can wiggle the hammer nose bushing from the breech side with the hammer nose protruding partially through the breech face, but it's tight when the hammer meets the frame. What's your opinion on the 290 Loctite?