686-6 Plus issue

[Fast-Eddie]

I was shooting my 686-6 it's a plus with a 6" barrel. I was shooting it in double action and the trigger started sticking, not every time, but a few times. I would press the trigger and it would move the hammer back less than 1/16" and the trigger would just lock. I would release the trigger and press again and it would clear lockup and fire. I noticed that when I shot it left handed, no issue at all. When I got home, I put some snap caps in and noticed that when I pressed the trigger with my right hand, it moved the trigger slightly to the right and caused the cylinder to try and rotate but it wasn't clearing the tab that the cylinder notch locks on. I also noticed there was some burring on the flat edge of the cylinder notches. The gun is bone stock and had about 750-1,000 Trouble free rounds through it. It is very well maintained meticulously cleaned and lubed after each trip to the range. I imagine if I clean up the burrs the issue will disappear, but it bothers me that there is metal coming off of those nice clean edges on the cylinder notches . It seemed to improve as I sat and dry fired it in double action but it makes me wonder if all is well with my nice revolver.

My question is, should I send it back to S&W? Is this a timing issue that is going to continue to damage the cylinder?
Or...
Is this gun just getting broken in? should I clean it up and see if the issue resolves on its own with further use?

 

[alec.mc]

sounds like your cylinder stop isnt coming down far enough to clean the notch, could be an easy fix by replacing the cylinder stop and spring, or adjusting the " timing " of the cylinder stop.

the metal issues around the cylinder stop notches is called " peening " and is common with stainless cylinders that get used.

 

[Protocall_Design]

That sounds like it might be a broken trigger pivot pin. It's hard to diagnose some things from this far away. These can break off at any time for any reason or no reason.I have built my own custom S&W revos for 35 years. A broken hammer or trigger pivot is one of the few things I will send a gun back to the factory for.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

You could try lightly stoning the burrs off the cylinder notches to see if that helped but I don't know why that would make a difference which hand you used to pull the trigger with if that was the only trouble.

.

 

[Protocall_Design]

You are better off to peen the burrs on the cylinder notches back where it came from rather than to file or stone it off. This can easily be done with a flat ended punch and small hammer.