686-6 with Surface Scratches

PRPark

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Hi All,
Just joined the forum and thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I just purchased a 686-6 4" and there are some surface scratches from wear as a service revolver.
Can you provide some insight into best way to polish/buff out the scratches and the process?
Thanks,
Philip
 

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Welcome to the forum Philip........

IMO, this is one of the nice things about stainless. Depending on the extent of the damage, glass beading, 3m pads, and buffing are all possibilities. The factory (and other vendors) also provide at least couple of "re-finish" options, which include, I believe both polishing and glass beading. (matte finish)

Be sure if you farm this out to someone, that you establish that they know what they are doing before they touch your revolver.

Last time I looked, the glass beading at the factory is around $170. Not sure about turn around time.
 
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Thank you for the reply and I will pursue those options.
Philip

And is Flitz an option or too aggressive?
In the past I have also used 0000 steel wool with a liberal amount of oil.
 
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My suggestion would be to FIRST use Flitz and an old T Shirt. Check work often unless you want a super bright mirror like finish - but check to see results vs scratches along the way.

If Flitz isn't aggressive enough, you could try Scotch-brite pads and they do come in many different "grits". I'd start with a relatively fine one and work down until you get the least abrasive pad that will achieve desired results. then go finer and finer until you are happy with the results.

If you have really deep scratches, you could even use Emory Cloth to start off with, but then you would have to continue with finer and finer abrasives to "pretty it up" for the final finish. Finish up with Flitz and a T shirt.

You could also sand or bead blast it if you like that sort of finish - if someone you know owns one. You can also send it back to S&W but then it's a question of how much they will charge and how much you are willing to spend - plus shipping both ways and of course wait time!

Personally I'd try it myself first. If you deem it a fail, then you can always send it back. Many do home refinishing and are completely satisfied with the results. Stainless is easy to work with and very forgiving. Be careful around logo and roll marks as you do not want to fade them out. Work in one direction. Try to apply even pressure and I'd suggest NOT using a Dremel Moto-tool as it works very quickly - too quickly in many cases.

I'd also recommend completely disassembling the gun so no grit gets caught inside where it shouldn't be when you are done. Clean thoroughly and lightly lube - then reassemble.
 
I've used Flitz and Mother's, Mother's seems a touch more aggressive.

If it gets too shiny, a white or grey 3m pad helps knock it back a touch.

Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
 
Used a little ballistol and light work with a grey 3M, wit lead remover cloth on the cylinder face. Looks better, still some more work to do.
Thanks again!
Philip
 

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I've used Flitz and Mother's, Mother's seems a touch more aggressive.

If it gets too shiny, a white or grey 3m pad helps knock it back a touch.

Good luck, and welcome to the forum.

Yep; Mothers Mag or Flitz has worked well for many of us on the forum.:)
 
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