686 question

686 no dash & 686-1 had recall for firing pin bushing. 686-M indicates recall performed.
I believe lock started with -6. Others will post up if that's incorrect.
So if you want a non-lock, -2 thru -5.
There's nothing wrong with waiting till you find the one you'd be happy with.

What state are you in ?
 
686 no dash & 686-1 had recall for firing pin bushing. 686-M indicates recall performed.
I believe lock started with -6. Others will post up if that's incorrect.
So if you want a non-lock, -2 thru -5.
There's nothing wrong with waiting till you find the one you'd be happy with.

What state are you in ?


New Hampshire
 
We each want what we want but I have three 686+s and two have the lock and the 3" is my "nightstand" gun. I don't worry about the lock but YMMV.

Why do you not want a 7 shot? There's scarcely any difference....to me, anyway. Another YMMV moment. ;)

Welcome to the campfire.............


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ISCS Yoda, I'm a knucklehead...kinda old fashioned about stuff. To me a revolver is 6 shots. Just like pickup trucks should only have 2 doors, everything else is a car!
 
ISCS Yoda, I'm a knucklehead...kinda old fashioned about stuff. To me a revolver is 6 shots. Just like pickup trucks should only have 2 doors, everything else is a car!

ROTFLMAO!!!! Quite literally - that's the funniest thing I've read on this Forum in quite awhile and there are often some funny remarks. WELL DONE CAPTAIN!!! That made my day!!!! :D
 
OK, I'm all set. I found a 686-5 4" barrel in mint condition on Gunbroker. It's ordered so now all I have to do is wait for it to get to my FFL. Thanks for everyone's input I appreciate it. I have learned several things, the lock is not an issue, the MIM parts are not an issue - in fact from what I've read several people claim they shoot smoother - we'll see, and as Smith is only using MIM parts from here on, if I need replacement parts they'll be available. I'm looking forward to getting back into a revolver. My 45 year old model 19 is going to be jealous. One additional question though, is it safe to dry fire with the floating hammer? I actually dry fired my 19 years ago so much that I pushed the bushing out of the frame and had to make an emergency run to S&W in Springfield for repairs. I don't want to do the same thing to the 686.
 
I have several guns with the lock, and many that don't. And they have all been equally reliable. Even my 340PD and 329PD. I have bought dozens of guns on line with no problems. Just scrutinize the sellers record and pics. Ask questions and when in doubt don't buy it.
 
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Dry firing on empty chambers puts stress on the firing pin or hammer nose, and eventually it will break. With the hammer nose, they are no longer made by S&W and will get scarcer as time goes by.
Use snap caps, the revolver be better off.
 
I have one gun with the lock, a Model 629-6, and have had no problems with it, of course I removed all the lock parts, installed the stainless piece to fill the hole, and then epoxied over it, and threw the lock parts in the trash where they belonged.:D:eek::rolleyes:

If you need to send your gun in during your lifetime warranty, you will pay a hefty charge to put that lock back in before S&W will send it back to you.

Keep parts just in case.
 
The current guns are likely the best every made... CNC machinery and all that. However, the purists want the pre-lock, pinned and collectible guns. Some scream about the liability of deactivating the lock but if you take it out and plug the hole, the liability (hole) no longer exists so nobody locks something that has no lock guts.
 
If you need to send your gun in during your lifetime warranty, you will pay a hefty charge to put that lock back in before S&W will send it back to you.

Keep parts just in case.


I have no intention of sending the gun back to S&W. I can do any & all maintenance on it myself. I was an Armorer and have most of the tools needed.
 
If you need to send your gun in during your lifetime warranty, you will pay a hefty charge to put that lock back in before S&W will send it back to you.

Keep parts just in case.

They did not charge me jack. They just put new lock parts in it.
 
I have a 7 shot 686 with the lock. I removed the lock. After several range trips the cylinder hand start to fail. It went back to S&W. They replaced the hand and the rest of the MIM parts. They also replaced the lock.
They had it back to me in 5 business days. No charge. I left the lock in this time. It has been good in a couple thousand rounds. John!
 
I have four S/W revolvers and all have locks. Lots of rounds through them with no lock problems. Stop wasting time and grab yourself s 686or 686+ with or without the lock and get to the range. If you don't like it you can sell it here on the forum in a heartbeat. You won't regret it.
 
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