686 snub nose 2 1/2"

[SBU11]

Hi All,

I am looking at purchasing a 686 snub nose 2 ½” and in doing research on it I have come across some conflicting information. My Standard Catalog states that the 2 ½” barrel was introduced in 1990 which would put it in the -3 engineering time frame. However, I keep seeing guns with the 2 ½” barrel selling on the internet that have -1 engineering change and are dated in the 1980’s. Can anyone shed some light on this inconsistency? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Ashlander]

At page 271 of the 3rd Edition the authors list a special run for Lew Horton in 1984 (product code 104212). They also list a product code, 104231, for a 2.5" model made from 1987 to 2001.

 

[iPac]

At page 271 of the 3rd Edition the authors list a special run for Lew Horton in 1984 (product code 104212). They also list a product code, 104231, for a 2.5" model made from 1987 to 2001.

When I was in the market for a snub nose 357mag, the only two choices that met my standards was a 686 or a Python. I like high quality.

I found a nice 2.5" 686-2 IIRC for a great price. I started researching it and was confused too as to when the 2.5" barrel started. I have the 3rd edition and found the same info Ashlander gives above. However, the -2 I was looking at seemed to be an '86 production. I never did learn the facts about when the 2.5" was available.

Never did get that 686.

 

[SBU11]

I to look for high quality, and since I am new to revolvers I have to do alot of research before I will buy. I have seen to many friends see something they like at a gun show just to find out when they got home it was not exactly what they wanted. Thanks for the info.

 

[CH4]

I just snagged a beautiful 2.5" 686-3 at a recent show. BFU3371. Not sure, but I think it was shipped circa '88.

 

[StakeOut]

I consider the 2.5" 686-4 made in 1994 and 1995 with the hammer mounted firing pin to be the best of the 686 versions.

I like the 6 shot ones.

The one pictured below was recently at the range and in need of a wipe down

 

[revolver686]

Some consider the -4 revision to be the high point for the 686 model. My 686-4 was manufactured in 1993 and has the flash-chromed trigger and hammer.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Zipdog]

I have a 686 no DASH with the 2 1/2" and sold another that I had just like it. Both are round butt. Must have started with them from the beginning.

 

[BB57]

I have a 7 shot 686+ dash 5 model shipped in 1999.

I'd prefer a -4 but I have no real beef with the -5's MIM trigger.

A 2 1/2" 686 is a very sweet concealed carry .357. I added Pachmayr Compact grips to mine as I like them more than the Uncle Mikes on a Kor L frame, and I added night sights as I regard them as an asset on a self defense handgun.

 

[targetchief]

I have a 686-1 2 1/2in with an ANR serial number. Best shooting .357 I own.

 

[guskody]

I have a 7 shot 686+ dash 5 model shipped in 1999.

I'd prefer a -4 but I have no real beef with the -5's MIM trigger.

A 2 1/2" 686 is a very sweet concealed carry .357. I added Pachmayr Compact grips to mine as I like them more than the Uncle Mikes on a Kor L frame, and I added night sights as I regard them as an asset on a self defense handgun.

hello BB57,

nice home defense/carry revolver.

do you recall what brand of NS you had installed or perhaps you know the part number?

thanks in advance.

 

[BB57]

They are Meprolite front and rear sights and I believe the rear sight is the same part number of the K L and N frame revolvers.

The front sights come in two flavors depending on whether your front sight blade is fixed, or pinned and removable.

The removable front sight model is upon my revolver and involves tapping the pin out, inserting the new sight and then drilling the hole for the pin. You have some attitude in for and aft placement with the sight, and I elected to set it flush with the end. Clamp the sight in place and then drill the hole half way through from one side and half way through from the other side, keeping the drill bit as perpendicular to the sight base as possible. Then remove the front sight from the base and through drill it with the same bit to clean up the hole and ensure it goes straight through.

The model for the non removable front sight replaces the orange insert in the front blade. It works and it's easier to install, but it gives it an odd front sight profile.

The rear sight installation is a bit involved as you will probably have to drill out the locking collar on the left side of the rear sight. The windage adjustment screw is usually staked in place very securely (and needs to be), so drilling the windage screw out of the center of the collar is the safest was to remove it without risking slipping and marring the finish on the revolver. Once the collar is off you can remove the sight blade and windage adjustment screw.

The sight should ship with it's own detent ball and spring. Mine did not. The S&W spring fit fine but the S&W detent ball is too large to fit in the Meprolite sight, so I had to upsize the hole slightly in order to re-use the S&W detent ball.

In any case, a numbered drill bit set is handy to have, but it can be done without a drill press etc. I have a drill press with a milling vice, but the set up for drilling the hole in the new front sight is so involved that's it just easier to drill it half way from both sides.