686 Trigger Return

j357p

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Happy New Year first of all! Hope you all had a great Christmas!
Got a 686-6 that I bought new back in 2005 (I think). It has developed a hickup on the trigger return. Sometimes it's smooth, sometimes the trigger hangs up about half way. Very inconsistant.
I have taken it apart, polished the rebound slide, cleaned, lubed, checked, etc.
Before I put the side plate back on, checked for smoothness. It's very smooth. After all buttoned up I do a function check and it still is inconsistant in return.
The left side of the trigger itself (inside the gun) may have been a little rough. Is there a washer at say .002" or so that might center up the trigger better. I think that may be where it's coming from.
I'm no expert so any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
 
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Happy New Year first of all! Hope you all had a great Christmas!
Got a 686-6 that I bought new back in 2005 (I think). It has developed a hickup on the trigger return. Sometimes it's smooth, sometimes the trigger hangs up about half way. Very inconsistant.
I have taken it apart, polished the rebound slide, cleaned, lubed, checked, etc.
Before I put the side plate back on, checked for smoothness. It's very smooth. After all buttoned up I do a function check and it still is inconsistant in return.
The left side of the trigger itself (inside the gun) may have been a little rough. Is there a washer at say .002" or so that might center up the trigger better. I think that may be where it's coming from.
I'm no expert so any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
 
SW CQB 45,
I thought I'd seen those somewhere before. Just couldn't recall where.
Thanks for the link.
 
j357P,

you say inconsistent trigger return.

is the rebound spring an aftermarket lighter one or could it be damaged or lost its tension?
 
SW CQB 45,
I did have a lighter aftermarket spring in there for a while but changed it back to the original. I've checked for burrs on the spring and the rebound slide. It's all good.
There is a lot of side to side play in the trigger itself and therein lies the problem.
I'm reasonably certain that the shims will resolve this. Order has been placed with Brownell's and I'll keep you updated. I need to get it done because I'll be taking this gun javelina hunting in a few weeks. It's a great shooter aside from this.
 
j357 are you right or left handed (I don't care myself) which ever pull the trigger with the other hand and see if it hangs.... If it doesn't then you are right, when you get the shims then you need to stone the two ruff areas of the trigger and frame.
 
John,
I've done that and it does make a difference. I'm right handed but do practice weak hand (probably not as much as I should) as well. I know the idea is to pull straight back but sometimes it just don't happen.
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Parts are MIM. How do they deal with stoning?
Obviously steel parts take to it much better, but I wonder how much impact stoning would have on the MIM parts?
Thanks for the advice.
 
The frame you can use some 600 or finer paper and knock off the sharp edge on the trigger. Get a shim for the trigger and the hammer, you will be happy with the finish product
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Originally posted by j357p:
SW CQB 45,
I did have a lighter aftermarket spring in there for a while but changed it back to the original. I've checked for burrs on the spring and the rebound slide. It's all good.
.
I've seen a funky cylinder stop hang the trigger. Can you tell exactly where evrything is when it hangs up?
 
Originally posted by j357p:

Parts are MIM. How do they deal with stoning?
Obviously steel parts take to it much better, but I wonder how much impact stoning would have on the MIM parts?
Thanks for the advice.

The MIM triggers and hammers are steel, and they are also surface hardened about .006" deep so they are very hard. Avoid stoning any load bearing surfaces, but the sides of the hammer and trigger are OK to polish as much as you want.

The only MIM part I found to be ridiculously soft was a rebound slide on a newer gun, maybe it was just a bad one?
 
bountyhunter,
I can't tell exactly where it is that it hangs up, but like I said in my OP, with the sideplate off, everything is very smooth. I've slicked up the rebound slide with 600, per the Kuhnhausen manual. It's after the sideplate is on and buttoned up that it starts having problems.
 
does your side plate on the inside of your frame have any drag or gouge marks from a high pin or rough machining?

I have seen some internal flats on the sideplate and frame, where a high pin was gouging into the flat.

if so, square up the pin, or stone down.
 
I'll have to take it apart again and check. Went shooting yesterday and took my 15-3 that I got at the last SAR show here in Phoenix.
It was a security company piece and has seen it's fair share of abuse but still shoots great and has a beautiful action. And the price was right!
I'll let you know what I find when i get time to open the 686 up again.
 
Originally posted by j357p:
I'll have to take it apart again and check. Went shooting yesterday and took my 15-3 that I got at the last SAR show here in Phoenix.
It was a security company piece and has seen it's fair share of abuse but still shoots great and has a beautiful action. And the price was right!
I'll let you know what I find when i get time to open the 686 up again.

j357
I am looking for a model 15 for police duty revovler comp, but I want a ruffy with excellant mechanics and accuracy potential.

what did you pay for yours?
 
Sometimes the top of the hammer block will contact the hammer face and cause an erratic sticking point in the return. If you haven't done so already, you might try to bevel the top edges of the hammer block and see if that helps.
 
SW CQB 45,

I paid $275 OTD. The sideplate is all scratched around the screws and the screws themselves are buggered. It had a lot of crud and rust. Plenty of finish wear especially on the trigger guard.
But, it locks up good and like I said, the action is VERY smooth. It came with a Pachmayer grip. I prefer the looks of S&W wood with the addition of a Tyler T on the K frames, but have to admit the rubber grip while oogly is very comfortable and fits my hand well.
I think for the price and adjustable sights it was a good deal. It's a great shooter and for what you intend to do it would work great. I load my own with 4.4 grains of W231 under a 158 SWC. Don't know if it would make "power factor" but is an accurate load for me in several diferent guns. Good luck both in your search and your competing.

Randy Lee,
I'm waiting for the trigger shims to show up and will install them and see how that works. If it still has issues I'll give your suggestion a try.

Thanks

Jim
 
j357

do you know if there is anymore at that price and the dealer contact info?

you got a very good price

I bought a broken model 65 4" for $125 that I use for my competition. I fixed for less than 20 bucks and it shoots smooth but had too much endshake that I moved away from the barrel with shims.

I can almost shoot with the top contenders in my league with more expensive tuned guns, so its a debate to keep my el cheapo and hope trigger time will tighten my group up, or go for a adjustable sighted model.

I have a 4" 66 that is in excellant condition, it needs a trigger job and I hate the red ramp front. It was suggested to me to just paint the front. I might do that and do my own trigger smoothing.

let me know about any extra model 15s.

thanks in advance
 
Hey All,
Just an update. Got the shims from Brownell's.
Two on each side of the trigger took care of the problem. It's not the smoothest action in the world, and I'm no expert, but I have 5 Smith's and what I've found is, the older they are, the better they are made, and the smoother the action.
My oldest is the 15-3 from 1969. The rest fall in between up to 2006. Big difference in all.
My Holy Grails consist of a 25-2 and a K-22. No cash for either right now, so I'll have to be happy with what I've got.
SW CQB 45,
Any luck with your quest yet?
 
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