9mm Model 929 info.

Joined
Mar 31, 2004
Messages
1,754
Reaction score
1,478
Location
Rural, CT
I did a search but got no results.

Anyone have or shoot a Jerry Michlek (sp) signature model 929 PC? I have the chance to get one NIB cheap. It seems like a gun without a purpose. Walls of steel maybe.
 
Register to hide this ad
Steel / ICORE / USPSA. Cheap ammo, low recoil. How much purpose do you need?

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
I have one and may buy a second. But you are definitely right. Some people think guns don't have a purpose.

;)

Edit myself

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 
I have one and just posted my experience. The plus is that it is light recoiling, accurate, and has a very good trigger. The minus is the ammunition.

I just got off the phone with Federal. One of the unfired cartridges separated while inside the cylinder. (I had fired six of eight shots and was going to adjust the sights. No point in firing the last two.)

When I opened the cylinder, a bullet fell out and a load of powder. One of the cartridges had separated.

I called Federal and was advised this was a fairly common occurrence when shooting semiauto cartridges in a revolver. The bullets creep under the recoil and Ruger even makes mention of this in their manuals.

I advised that the 929 weighs 44 oz, has a 6" barrel, also has a compensator, and a titanium cylinder so everything is weighted to the front and it has a very light recoil.

Federal advised that I should switch ammo and find one that would not creep. They advised to shot a cylinder full less that last one and check the if the bullet had creeped by comparing it to one that had not been fired or in the gun. (FYI, the remaining cartridge showed no creep at all)

I was shooting the super cheap Federal 9mm aluminum case and I believe the aluminum case does not crimp as well as a brass case would.

After my discovery I wanted to continue shooting. I found I could not close the cylinder without great effort. After much futzing around, I eventually found one flake of power underneath the extractor. Even though the extractor appeared to be flush to my eye.

One thing does bother me about Federal's explanation. I'm sure the forces experienced by a cartridge in a light semiauto (G42, 938, Shield) both in recoil and then by being taken from the magazine and slammed into the chamber far exceeds the forces experienced in a 929 or even a small frame revolver. It makes me wonder whether I should consider to continue using aluminum cased ammo.

In any event, the 929 is an excellent revolver and make a great stablemate to my 686+Pro and my 627Pro.
 
Last edited:
Another thing you can do is run all your ammo through a crimp die. Moat all factory ammo (9mm) isn't crimped at all. I'm a firm believer it needs to be crimped at least .003", and do crimp all my loads to that. I have fired a considerable # in my 940 J frame revolver and have never had a round dislodge from original seating depth.
 
I have one and love it and so does just about everyone who has shot mine. Since I have 9mm full autos and semi-autos I figured why not have the revolver too.
 
In an automatic, 9mm rounds mainly have to resist being shortened by feeding. Any peak recoil force that may tend to cause bullet creep are far less in an automatic since recoil force is spread out over time compared to a revolver.

That leaves 9mm revolver fans to either try different ammo or reloaders to pay close attention to bullet tension.
 
One super easy way to check for bullet creep, whether in a cylinder or magazine, is to simply put a sharpie line or even a big dot on the loaded cartridge intersection between the bullet & case. Fire off a few rounds, then check the remaining cartridges for a gap in the line or dot. It kinda stands out.
 
The 929 I had was accurate , low recoil, & fun to shoot. The 8 shots are a real game changer in USPSA. Also great for Steel Challenge, or local steel matches.

With my normal 9mm reloads I did notice a bit of bullet creep. I started putting .001 - .002 more crimp on the rounds for the 929.

A friend really wanted a 929 and couldn't find one, so I sold him mine. And I purchased a 8 shot 627.. I didn't care for the false muzzle on the 929 , and preferred the balance of the shorter 4" barrel on the 627.
There were a couple things I didn't care for on the 929 , like the false muzzle, the 6 1/2" barrel, & the lack of quality and attention to detail from a Performance Center gun.
So, If you purchase one, really check it out.
But after a little smoothing up it's a pretty good firearm.

( edit: you might want to check this forum for articiles on the 929,, there have been several )
 
Last edited:
The 929 I had was accurate , low recoil, & fun to shoot. The 8 shots are a real game changer in USPSA. Also great for Steel Challenge, or local steel matches.

With my normal 9mm reloads I did notice a bit of bullet creep. I started putting .001 - .002 more crimp on the rounds for the 929.

A friend really wanted a 929 and couldn't find one, so I sold him mine. And I purchased a 8 shot 627.. I didn't care for the false muzzle on the 929 , and preferred the balance of the shorter 4" barrel on the 627.
There were a couple things I didn't care for on the 929 , like the false muzzle, the 6 1/2" barrel, & the lack of quality and attention to detail from a Performance Center gun.
So, If you purchase one, really check it out.
But after a little smoothing up it's a pretty good firearm.
I have a 627 and the longer cartridge length of the 38/357 slows down reloads a bit. Then I found 38's cost almost as much as 45's now.
 
Revolver Roll Crimp!

Above is a term that all revolvers shooters should adhere to! Bullet pull is a common problem in revolvers, especially those revolvers with a heavy recoil! I have seen the cylinder of a 44 mag tied up because the bullet pulled far enough to extend beyond the front of the cylinder! I shoot 10mm, 40S&W, 9mm, 38super, and 45ACP from revolvers. The 10mm and 45 ACP are used in bowling pin matches and are HOT! In the 10mm I try to find 38-40 bullets which have a crimping groove. In all of the calibers mentioned the bullets usually do not have a crimping groove which means you seat the bullet a little deeper and crimp on the ogive of the bullet. Be careful if you are loading a max load as this will increase chamber pressure! One rule on my reloading bench, revolver ammo=roll crimp & auto ammo=taper crimp! If your using store bought ammo, run it through a press and crimp it!
jcelect
 
I have a 627 and the longer cartridge length of the 38/357 slows down reloads a bit. Then I found 38's cost almost as much as 45's now.

Personally I think the cost of most, if not all, factory ammo is quite high. 99% of my handgun and rifle ammo are reloads. I probably couldn't afford to shoot if I was buying factory ammo.

For USPSA matches / quick reloads, some folks are going to the 38 Short Colt in the 627. It's the same length as the 9mm cartridge. For Steel Challenge / local steel matches where quick reloads are not usually required ,, the 38spl. / .357 cartridge isn't a problem..

I haven't been shooting many USPSA matches lately,, so I haven't started playing with the 38 short colt round ,,, yet..
 
Last edited:
For USPSA matches / quick reloads, some folks are going to the 38 Short Colt in the 627. It's the same length as the 9mm cartridge.

The .38 Long Colt is also a viable round for competition use in the 627, and easier to reload. The Long Colt can be reloaded using the .357/.38 Spl dies. The Short Colt requires the use of a 9 mm seating/crimping die as it is too short for the .38 Spl. Of course if you already load for both calibers, then it's no hassle at all.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
The Short Colt requires the use of a 9 mm seating/crimping die as it is too short for the .38 Spl. Of course if you already load for both calibers, then it's no hassle at all.

Adios,

Pizza Bob[/QUOTE]

Hey Bob,

It is not necessary to load 38 shorts with the 9mm crimp die. My lee carbide dies came 38 spl-sizer, 38 s&w -expander/powder, and a 38 s&w seater/crimp.

I've loaded thousands every year in 9mm, .38 in .355,.356 and .357 diameters.

I've heard that you can use a taper crimp 9mm die- but I use a .38 roll crimp hard on a 9mm bullet (that tapers and with an ogive) and have never had them come loose on 8 on the wheel. Let alone an auto.

And I wouldn't use a taper crimp die on a roll crimp bullet. Thats just me
The nines noses are pointy. But vice a versa I would do.

d7c457f6e8b3fc468219149b16a97127.jpg


Image here - the one in the middle are my 9mms for my 929 using a taper crimp 9mm die. The one on the left is a 9mm/38 short colt case ,roll crimped with a .38 s&w die. And on the right- a 125gr. FP roll crimp die with a .357 dia. Short colt case

9c75a5db3185c7811cd4bd4f7b5d1925.jpg


1.123" OAL on the 9mm/short
1.124" 9mm Winchester cases only! Will work on the 9mm 929.

And my shorty is the 125gr. @ 1.050"





Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
I should have taken more time in the original post. I have 3 moon clipped 45s, a 25-2 6.5 inch I use for bowling pin matches, a 625-3 4" I shoot IDPA with and a 625-10 2" that I carry occasionally and also play with.







I also have a 627 8 shot with 2.625 barrel. My favorite 357 ever. The 627 is not near as fast to reload as the 45s.






I get the 929 would have shorter brass and probably be easier to get them in and out. There are not many icore matches around here or walls of steel. Not enough power for bowling pins so I think I will stick to what I have.
 
I love the 929 as I do not have to run after my brass to reload. I like this gun for load development. The only real issue is the false muzzle cap. On is a compensator and the other plain. I was not thinking and shot some lead bullets through the comp. What a leading mess. If you shoot lead use the plain cap. Other than this the gun is extremely accurate.
 
Back
Top