9mm taper crimp and bullet seating die ??

[Ultimate407]

Does anybody have a recipe for 158gr 9mm with oal


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[Ultimate407]

Does anybody have a recipe for 158 grain 9 mm projector with Oal


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[jimbo728]

I have no problem with 9mm crimp. I use RCBS 3 die set in my Dillon 550. The way I set the seat/crimp die is set the crimp by using a sized and expanded case (without any bullet) then adjust my die until I have a .003 less than full OD case measurement on the empty case mouth, (.377"). Then set the OAL to what you want.

In all the discussion Im glad H Richard mentioned the correct case mouth dimension, .377. Kudos.
9mm is quite simple. No roll crimp of any kind. Set desired OAL. Adjust taper crimp to .377 at case mouth. It doesnt take much to achieve this.
Jim

 

[WR Moore]

Loading in the same Federal casings. What I'm finding is every bullet after seating has a full ring indent in the middle of the bullet 3/16" from the end.

OK, are you talking about a ring at the tip of the bulllet? Kinda like a ring around the tip? If so, it's probably the edges of the bullet seating punch. OR, if further down, could be contact with the taper crimp die. If it's that, either you have a bad die or you''re over crimping. Come to think of it, if you're way over length, that might do it.

Contrary to the folks who don't crimp reloads, a proper crimp prevents bullet setback, possible misfeeds and promotes more even powder burn. Really good idea with all semi-auto ammo.

Suggestion: put a factory round in the press and run the ram all the way up. Back off the bullet seating stem and die lock ring. Now, run the die body down to firm contact with the round. Run the lock ring down and lock it. Then, run the seating stem down to contact with the bullet and lightly lock it.

The above gives you a starting point for die adjustments. You may need to do slight changes in crimp and seating depth, but you're in the ball park. Give it a try.

 

[scooter123]

WR Moore, I am Jealous. That procedure of yours for setting up a Seat/Crimp die is about the most efficient and simplest method I've ever seen put forward. If I wasn't totally fed up with trying to use this combined operation I would steal that procedure from you. Consider this a big thumbs up.

 

[DIYguy]

WR More: Part of the mystery solved, its the Hornady bullet seating stem. I took the die apart and fit the cartridge with the bullet with ring around it and the ring matched up with the end of the stem. OD of the seating stem measures.3545 and ID measures.214. The edge of the stem is pressing a ring into the soft Berrys bullets. This is using the American Series die.

 

[LAA]

WR More: Part of the mystery solved, its the Hornady bullet seating stem. I took the die apart and fit the cartridge with the bullet with ring around it and the ring matched up with the end of the stem. OD of the seating stem measures.3545 and ID measures.214. The edge of the stem is pressing a ring into the soft Berrys bullets. This is using the American Series die.

I don't know if that particular Hornady die offers more than one stem or not. But, many dies do, and some have two reversible ends, or a completely different stem included in the box. Just find one, that doesn't put a ring on the bullet. I went through the same process, once.

edit: I also use lots of Berry's bullets. There will be stems that work great, even if the shape doesn't look like it will.

 

[Hasbeen1945]

I crimp in a separate step. I've found the Lee carbide crimp die works real well. It sizes the case and crimps the case. The way it adjusts it is repeatable from session to session.

 

[LostintheOzone]

I don't know much about your die set, but I am a firm believer in doing the taper crimp separate from bullet seating in 9 MM. You can pick up a Lee Factory Crimp die for around $18 plus shipping from Midway right now. And Amazon has it for the same price and free shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member.

LFCD. That's what I use on 9 mm, 45 ACP and 357. Never have liked seating and crimping with the same die. I know, it's an extra step, but I can get those crimps just exactly the way I want them. Before I found out about the lee die I just backed my seater plug out and crimped without it. I just got tired of adjusting it so moved on to the LFCD.

 

[flyrobb]

I have no problem with 9mm crimp. I use RCBS 3 die set in my Dillon 550. The way I set the seat/crimp die is set the crimp by using a sized and expanded case (without any bullet) then adjust my die until I have a .003 less than full OD case measurement on the empty case mouth, (.377"). Then set the OAL to what you want.

Ok, so this confused me a bit, but I'm from S. IL so that might explain that, anyway I digress.

Wouldn't you want to set the crimp and/or take measurements after the bullet is seated because that would change the dimension on the case, just below the case mouth, depending on the size of the bullet and brass thickness?

The RCBS die instructions say to TC to .001-.002 less than the measurement below the case mouth. Per their instructions I set the COL first, back the seating stem out, set the TC, then screw the seating stem back down till it touch's the bullet. (I am working on a SS press)

Bullet dimensions. You mention .377, my reloads (Xtreme 115 RN-HP) measure .375 and a Federal 115 FMJ factory load measures the same. My Bayou 125 SWC coated measure .376. So wouldn't the crimp be set, (.001-.003 depending on what works for you) relative to the case measurement after the bullet is seated?

I may be splitting hairs here and you guys have been at this way longer than me so I'm just trying to understand a new method.

 

[jimbo728]

For 9mm taper crimp I take my measurement after seating the bullet.
The .377 at the case mouth is on the loaded cartridge.
I have had very good luck with this.
Start on a test cartridge with the taper crimp die backed out and adjust it downward until you get in spec.
I am assuming you have a dedicated taper crimp die.
Jim

 

[WR Moore]

About crimping separately.......I've done that for decades. But, this year I discovered that for some reason in .45 ACP, plated bullets will set back during the feed cycle. Changing to starting the bullet in the initial seating die (leaving it about 0.060 in from final OAL) and finishing the seating in the taper crimp die produced a deeper crimp with a slight ledge preventing bullet setback. [Yes, I tried different depths of neck expansion and other options to prevent bullet setback without success.]

Berry bullets don't cut through the plating with this process and both function and accuracy is very good. The only thing I can think of is that the copper plate has less co-efficient of friction that plan lead and/or possibly gilding metal jackets.

 

[LostintheOzone]

The only thing I can think of is that the copper plate has less co-efficient of friction that plan lead and/or possibly gilding metal jackets.

Plated bullets are very slippery. They slide around a lot in the seating process. Never had a problem with coated lead. I've gone over to coated for this reason. About the same price as plated with a few other benefits. If you have problems with plated try coated bullets.

 

[flyrobb]

For 9mm taper crimp I take my measurement after seating the bullet.
The .377 at the case mouth is on the loaded cartridge.
I have had very good luck with this.
Start on a test cartridge with the taper crimp die backed out and adjust it downward until you get in spec.
I am assuming you have a dedicated taper crimp die.
Jim

Yes I do have a dedicated TC die. I guess what I'm thinking is the case mouth measurement would vary depending on the bullet diameter used and the brass thickness. On my reloads I am getting measurements of .375 instead of .377 so to crimp .002-.003 less would give a crimp measurement of .373-.372.