A First Handgun

[newkidintown]

A few months ago, I posted a thread in the semi auto forum about buying a first handgun. I received many good suggestions, and have narrowed my choices down. However, just in the last several weeks, I had a good conversation with a close family friend about the virtues of the revolver. Now, I would also like to add a few different revolvers to my list of options, and then test them vs the semi autos and figure out what works best for me. However, before I had never considered a revolver, and as a result, don't know too much about them. So here are my requirements:


Caliber: .357, .41, .44 mag
Capacity: Hopefully 6 or more, but if I really like the gun I could do 5.
Price: Below $600
Barrel Length: This is the one category where I have no clue. Some say that with too short of a barrel, the revolver is inaccurate, but I also don't have any interest in lugging around some monster when in most situations I won't be shooting anything more than 10yds out. Any advice in this respect would be great.
Use- General Shooting and Carry. Self Defense.
Don't care is weapon is new or used, it just has to be relatively modern (last 5-10 years at most)

I have plenty of weapons experience and have shot many handguns before, just haven't used revolvers very much. However, S&W has always been highly recommended by many people. I have just recently gained interest in purchasing a handgun, and since I am in school, I have don't have a lot of money to spend. I looked on the S&W website, but the format isn't that great and I'm not finding a lot of usable info. I also know that the prices on the website are often much higher than they would be at the local dealers. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Clarification: Barrel Length and Price are most important factors. While this gun will be for general use since I don't have a lot cash laying around, I do plan on carrying it. However, it's not as if I will be carrying it everywhere, everyday(Not possible, not practical). Like I said before, barrel length is a category I am not experienced with, and any info or insight you have is great.

 

[azgunz]

Though I havent bought mine yet, Smith Wesson 686

.357 so you can shoot .38spl, .38spl+P, .38spl+P+, and of course .357s
6 or 7 shot. Price <$600
barrel length.. 4" seems perfect for you. 6" is the next step up which I think you wont like.

my first handgun was a 1911

 

[Frailer]

I personally don't like to carry anything larger than a J frame, so my vote goes to the Model 60. If you're truly serious about carrying regularly, check out the weight of any model you consider. Wearing a 2-3 pound gun on my hip isn't my idea if fun, and I'd be likely to leave it in a drawer.

 

[murphydog]

Hi, and welcome to the revolver side

You listed several criteria in which you will have to rank in order of importance. For example, a revolver that you will want to carry on a regular basis may not be the easiest to shoot, and vice versa. However, you will not find a recent production .41 or .44 Magnum that will be easy to carry and under $600, and ammunition for these will blow a big hole (no pun intended) in a student's budget.

So, my recommendation would be to find a good, used 6-shot blue model 19 or stainless model 66 .357. A 2.5" barrel if carrying is important, and a 4" if it will be used more for target practice and home defense. A 4" can be carried, but not as easily as the 2.5". They were made in large numbers and a nice one will be well under your budget number. There are 3" model 66s which are a good compromise length for both uses, but they are hard to find and will likely exceed $600.

Either barrel length is more (intrinsically) accurate than you or I can hold them, but the 4" with the longer sight radius has better practical accuracy, meaning easier to shoot by humans. They can use .38 Specials for cheaper practice, and occasionally put some .357s through them to remind yourself why you mostly use .38s

Hope this is helpful in your decision.

 

[azgunz]

I personally don't like to carry anything larger than a J frame, so my vote goes to the Model 60. If you're truly serious about carrying regularly, check out the weight of any model you consider. Wearing a 2-3 pound gun on my hip isn't my idea if fun, and I'd be likely to leave it in a drawer.

I dont think he is thinking strictly carrying. I mean a first handgun is something fun that he'll be taking to the range all the time. J-frame is not the sharpest shooter with a 2" barrel.

 

[HOGSTR]

If you ever plan to hunt with the gun, make sure there isn't a barrel length requirement in your state. Most places are 4" or more. If this is not a consideration, I would go no more that 4". .357 is really the only choice here as you will tire of pounding away on the larger bores, and will have overpenetration concerns in self defense situations. I second the earlier comments about training with .38s. You will be very happy that you can do this, both phyiscally and financially.

Find a 2, 3, or 4 inch Model 686 or 66 for stainless, 586 or 19 for blue. Only the 686 is current production in that group.

A nice J frame snubby could work here too, if you want deeper concealment. The model 60 has several barrel lengths, or a 640 might do the trick. Try doing a Gun Genie search at www.galleryofguns.com for all of the 38/357 options.

 

[Frailer]

I dont think he is thinking strictly carrying. I mean a first handgun is something fun that he'll be taking to the range all the time. J-frame is not the sharpest shooter with a 2" barrel.

Who said anything about a 2" barrel?

FWIW, I'm very firmly of the opinion that everyone's first handgun should be a .22, but that didn't fit the criteria specified.

 

[scooter123]

Since your a student, and most likely on a limited budget, I would suggest that you do a bit more due dilligance.

One problem with todays revolvers is that the ammunition is rather expensive. Locally, 38 spl. range ammunition is about 21 dollars per box of 50, 9mm for a semi auto is in comparison about 10 dollars per box of 50. There was a time when Walmart had Winchester range ammo for the 38 spl. at a fairly reasonable price, however in the past year and a half I have not seen one single box. It gets worse once you step up the power level, 357 Magnum range ammo is 28 dollars per box of 50 and I have no idea about what 44 Magnums run because I can't tolerate that much recoil. However, I expect that practice ammo for a 44 Magnum will probably run 0.80 to 1.25 per round. Unfortunately, revolvers have become niche guns and as a result there just isn't enough demand for the ammunition to result in low cost practice ammunition. It's one reason why those who enjoy shooting revolvers tend to start reloading their own ammunition. Unfortunately, a "proper" reloading setup will cost you at least 800 dollars just for the equipment.

In all honesty, you would probably be better served looking for a used 9mm semi auto such as a Sig Sauer P225, P6, or P228, which are available as police turn-ins well within your price range. For us wheelgun junkies, there are also occasional batches of the 4 inch models 66 (357) and 67 (38 spl) available as police turn-ins in your price range but I see fewer and fewer every year.

Finally, S&W has just released the SD series of semi auto's that are well within your budget and available in either 9mm or 40 caliber. While they use a purely Double Action trigger, which will require as much time to master as shooting a revolver in Double Action, they will force you to develop a good trigger technique.

Point is, there are many options available to you and I think that you should probably spend some more time doing some basic research. I would also suggest that you try and narrow your chooice down to 3 or 4 final choices and then try and find a range that offers something similar, or the same model, for rental. While a newer model 686 isn't identical in weight to an older model 66, they are similar enough that you can get a very good idea of how a model 66 would shoot for you.

Finally, if you happen to have a father or uncle who is a re-loader, you won't have the concerns that I've expressed in regards to the cost of ammunition. Just make sure you never shoot re-loads that don't come from a source you have absolute confidence in, because a bad re-load will blow a revolver into pieces. In this case, you may want to up your budget to the 700 to 750 dollar price range. If you can do that, the one gun that I would recomend brand new is the 3 inch version of the model 686, in either 6 or 7 shot version. You just can't beat it for having the optimum balance between handling, practical accuracy, and concealability.

 

[FirebirdV8]

I would suggest practicing with .38 spl a lot before you start shooting a lot of .357 magnum. If you start with .357 magnum not only will spend more money on practice then required but you could develop a flinch fairly easily with all magnum or .38 +P rounds. A nice Mod 19, 66, or 686 should be easy to find and in your price range. The 2 1/2 inch would be an ideal barrel length for what you want to do with it. If you were not planning on carrying a lot I would suggest a Mod 28 in 4 inch, as N frames are just great revolvers all of the way around, but would be heavy to carry all day. J frames are nice, but the larger grip of a K frame (19/66) or L frame (686) is more comfortable and the N frame grip feels just right, for me anyway.

Enjoy your hunt for your first hand gun.

 

[azgunz]

FWIW, I'm very firmly of the opinion that everyone's first handgun should be a .22, but that didn't fit the criteria specified.

I somewhat agree. Though I'm happy I didn't.
I did start with a couple .22 rifles

 

[Combat_Diver]

Another great option would be a Smith K frame 13/65 in blue or stainless, .357 3" barrel (for full length extraction), Round butt. This is a great carry/combat handgun, you have to hunt for these as they are discontuined.

You could start reloading for only $30 or so with a Lee Handloader kit. I used to sit in my barracks at night or in the field tapping out rounds. There a also starter kits with a O frame press for just over $100 as I order on for my son last Christmas (Midway).

CD

 

[azgunz]

You could start reloading for only $30 or so with a Lee Handloader kit. I used to sit in my barracks at night or in the field tapping out rounds. There a also starter kits with a O frame press for just over $100 as I order on for my son last Christmas (Midway).

CD

I found the first one but links to the second one?

 

[scooter123]

Guy's, lets not start a discussion on the cheapest possible methods available for re-loading. It's an activity where just one mistake can lead to a blown up gun at best and has the potential for far worse consequences. I also do NOT think it's something that anyone attending college should take part in. There are too many distractions and distractions lead to mistakes.

 

[tbury]

Midway has a Lee single stage kit for $91 (the $104 kit has a more complete setup) add another $26 for dies and you have a good safe start to reloading. (JMHO) Also, 38/357 is a great caliber to start with and I always use carbide dies with pistol rounds. When I was in college I mounted my press on a 2"x6" board and "C"-clamped it to any table or desk to make a portable reloading setup.

 

[Combat_Diver]

Scooter123,

Why do you think it takes $800 to start reloading? No matter what equipment you use it all takes attention to detail. Same with shooting or driving. Your making assumptions that you know how and where he lives. I'm just showning that it doesn't require that amount. You can reload from $20-$800 up. A compete person will research, follow instructions or get someone to teach them the ropes, same if the've never shot before.

Shooting Supplies, Reloading, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Ammunition, Gun Parts & Rifle Scopes — MidwayUSA
or try Natchez Shooters Supply
http://www.natchezss.com/

CD

 

[cp1969]

Get a quality 4" .22 such as an M18. It will teach you everything you need to know about revolver shooting, except how to handle recoil. At this stage of the game, you don't need to have recoil management forming bad habits. .22 ammo is cheap. Centerfire is not.

No one I know of has ever outgrown his .22 revolver, if it is a good one. You will use it for the rest of your life. When the time comes, you will move up to centerfire when you can better afford the ammo and have learned the basics of sighting and trigger control.

 

[jwk]

A sleeper in the deck that you haven't thought of would be one of S&W's M10, 13, 64 or 65 revolvers. They are medium size frames (K frames) with either 3 or 4 inch barrels. The Ms10/64 are 38 Specials. The Ms13/65 are .357s which will also shoot .38s. The 10/13 are blued, the 64/65 are stainless. All are fixed sight revolvers which have advantages and disadvantages. Advantages are you find the load that hits to the sights and you are good to go and have a set of sights that isn't going to get knocked out of kilter and which are low profile for carry. Disadvantage is that you can't change loads a lot and have the revolver hit exactly to point of aim (although it should be close).

The big advantage of these revolvers is that they are a mature design, they work very well and due to the fact that there are a zillion of them out there (for years the police gun of choice) they are inexpensive. An inexpensive starter lets you buy more ammo, spend a few more bucks out of your budget for a good holster and belt and maybe a set of grips or stocks that you find fit your hand better.

Along the same line there are also a lot of M15s out there. The M15 is in .38 Special also built on the same K frame as the revolvers above. The difference is adjustable sights. These are very nice revolvers and the only drawback to them for a do everything you mention is that they are in 38 Special only. I say that, and it also applies to the .38 Special revolvers above is that a .38 Special doesn't have the same oomph as a .357 in a defensive carry gun. Again these revolvers can be bought at relative bargains due to the fact that there are a lot of them that were carried a lot in police holsters without being fired much.
I recently rediscovered the M15 and how much fun they are to shoot and how accurate that they can be with target loads. Amazing how much fun they are to shoot all day and not leave the range with sore hands from shooting too many .44 Mags.

On your issue of manufacture date, revolver designs have been mature for a long time. A 15 year old S&W revolver that has been well maintained probably can be handed down to your grandchildren if you take care of it. It may need a trip to the gun smith for cleaning and re-lubrication of the internal lockwork but that isn't a big deal. I have a lot of S&W revolvers from the late 70s and early 80s that other than carry wear (or holster wear) are still in as good condition as when I got them. That type wear does not affect usability. Of course like any tool, it helps to maintain them properly and occasionally have a gun mechanic (gunsmith) take the side plate off, make sure the springs are still in good condition and re-lubricate everything. Think of it like an oil change for your car except nearly as often.

On the issue of carry, all of these revolvers are small enough to carry well using a good belt and holster. If you don't use a good belt and holster nothing carries comfortably for too long. That is another subject though.

Finally another choice not really mentioned although a photo is shown above is one of the J frame .38s or .357s with a 3 inch barrel and adjustable sights. Those are really sweet revolvers. (I have and carry one) They are not as easy for me to shoot because they are smaller guns but mine shoots well enough that I often open carry it at the deer lease when season is out and nothing bigger than a pest is on the shooting menu. Depending on your hand size that might or might not be an issue for you. Bigger hands make a small revolver harder to shoot well. Smaller hands make small revolvers easier to shoot. For instance my wife's hands are so small she can't shoot anything bigger than a J frame because she can't properly grip the revolver and reach the trigger. Bigger hands make it a bit harder to shoot a small revolver but it is certainly doable. FYI my hands are large enough that on a good day I can palm a B-ball. With standard grips I can still work a J frame pretty well although I like the larger N frame guns for most purposes.

Shop around and you can find a good revolver in your price range. What I have thrown into the mix isn't all inclusive, it just covered some things that other folks haven't added. For instance it is hard to beat a good 686 with a 4 inch barrel as a general, one revolver does it all for you duty. A bit big for everyday carry but it can be done, a bit on the light side for hunting deer but with the right ammo you can do it, they work very well, wide supply of grips to fit almost everyone and probably more accessory choices in holsters, gripes, speedloaders and every thing else you can imagine than any other size S&W.

 

[H Richard]

As stated above, a medium frame size, the "K" frame will serve you best with your criteria. A 2" mod 10, 15, 64, 65, 19, 66 etc. make the carry part easier, and the 4" is a little easier to shoot as the longer sight radius makes sighting more accurate. There is literally no difference in the accuracy between the 2" and the 4", the the longer sight radius makes for less sighting error.

These are group's shot by Mod. 15's at 10 yards. I shot half single action and half double action with each gun.

The stainless versions are easier to care for and keep clean and show wear less, but do not shoot any different than their blued counter part.

 

[Black Knight]

If your shooting distance is 30 ft. (10 yards) any barrel length should be fine. I would choose a K-frame 38 Special or 357 Magnum with a barrel length of 2 - 4 inches. If you can find a good used one with a 3 inch barrel I believe you would be pleased. The 3 inch combines advantages from the 2 and 4 inch barrels. It is short enough that the barrel won't get in the way and long enough to have a full length ejector rod. Alot of folks who carry a K-frame 357 shoot 38 Special +P in them. It saves on the wear and tear. K-frame 38s include the models 10, 15, 64, and 67. the K-frame 357s include the models 13, 19, 65, and 66. The next step up in frame size is the L-frame. This frame size includes the models 581, 586, 681, 686, and 620. A 4" barrel or less will do well at 10 yards. Check for police trade ins, you may be able to get a good one cheap.

 

[GyMac]

A few months ago, I posted a thread in the semi auto forum about buying a first handgun. I received many good suggestions, and have narrowed my choices down. However, just in the last several weeks, I had a good conversation with a close family friend about the virtues of the revolver. Now, I would also like to add a few different revolvers to my list of options, and then test them vs the semi autos and figure out what works best for me. However, before I had never considered a revolver, and as a result, don't know too much about them. So here are my requirements:


Caliber: .357, .41, .44 mag
Capacity: Hopefully 6 or more, but if I really like the gun I could do 5.
Price: Below $600
Barrel Length: This is the one category where I have no clue. Some say that with too short of a barrel, the revolver is inaccurate, but I also don't have any interest in lugging around some monster when in most situations I won't be shooting anything more than 10yds out. Any advice in this respect would be great.
Use- General Shooting and Carry. Self Defense.
Don't care is weapon is new or used, it just has to be relatively modern (last 5-10 years at most)

I have plenty of weapons experience and have shot many handguns before, just haven't used revolvers very much. However, S&W has always been highly recommended by many people. I have just recently gained interest in purchasing a handgun, and since I am in school, I have don't have a lot of money to spend. I looked on the S&W website, but the format isn't that great and I'm not finding a lot of usable info. I also know that the prices on the website are often much higher than they would be at the local dealers. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Clarification: Barrel Length and Price are most important factors. While this gun will be for general use since I don't have a lot cash laying around, I do plan on carrying it. However, it's not as if I will be carrying it everywhere, everyday(Not possible, not practical). Like I said before, barrel length is a category I am not experienced with, and any info or insight you have is great.

I think the .357 with a four inch barrel is your best bet. Buy used, but be careful. A .22 of course, would be ideal to start out with, but I understand how that works. I started out with a Ruger Blackhawk in .357 and then went to a Model 19 Combat Magnum (wish I still had it). When I finally figured out that I couldn't afford to shoot those guns, I bought a Colt New Frontier in .22 and learned how to shoot.
Good Luck.