A Good Safety Lesson

I never fully trust a Electronic Scale I do have & use one but verify charge weight on a Old style mechanical Scale that I’ve used since the mid 1980’s & has never lied to Me,You may want to pick a mechanical scale up to use for verification


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Have my original RCBS beam scale mfg by Ohaus back in 70’s, sent it back couple years ago for check up , recalibration , and bought a New Ohaus beam scale last year. Old habit, set up scales in house in gun room on wooden table, no drafts, stable temps. Have 2 RCBS drum powder measures used for different styles of powder. Sometimes a long process but set scales at weight, adjust powder measures to throw correct weight and compare actual throw weights on Both scales in gun room. When all ok powder measure goes to garage loading bench. BTW, I always throw 3 dumps with powder measure between adjustments to make sure correct. Better safe than sorry.
 
I have had a Lyman DPS [Digital Powder System] for almost 20 years. I need the 30 minute warm up for accuracy when throwing powder. When weighing bullets or cases a 2 minute warm up seems to do just fine. I let the DPS come to the charge and settle then toss it onto the balance beam scale the first three times. Following that verification I only check weights every 10th time. I cannot keep a cell phone on my person without having to re-calibrate often. The fluorescent light gets unplugged. I am ok listening to audio files with the phone 6 feet away but not nearer.
 
Reloading

To be safe, I took all of the rounds apart by pulling the bullets and dumping the powder.

Sir, congrats! You learned THE most important lesson of reloading! When in doubt, pull it apart! You have lost NOTHING but time! And, you are still here and able to shoot your reloads!
Well done! jcelect
 
Buy the low-end Lyman check weight set. And consider ditching that old AC powered scale - you can get better speed and accuracy from a $35 MTM 750gr AAA-powered scale.
 
I have been using the same RCBS beam scale since I started reloading 50yrs ago. I keep 3 Lyman 55 dumps set & marked with my frequently used loads. When I begin, I dump & weigh 3 loads on the RCBS. I also check every 10th dump on the RCBS during loading. I use loading blocks & a flashlight to check for uniformity in charged cases. Never have had a surprise or unpleasant experience. I don't trust electronic scales or progressive loaders. Have friends that had some very unpleasant experiences using progressives. At my age I don't get in a hurry and see no reason to change. YMMV
 
I would think you would notice by looking a difference of 7 grains. I also like others use a balance and a digital to check against each other. My Hornady powder throwers will stay pretty accurate once set but I will check them every few loads. Also once I have the right load it is pretty easy to notice any change over a few grains by looking.
 
Buy the low-end Lyman check weight set. And consider ditching that old AC powered scale - you can get better speed and accuracy from a $35 MTM 750gr AAA-powered scale.

Good suggestion I hadn't thought of. I bought a set of the Lyman check weights at least thirty-five years ago and continue to use them on occasion to check my balance beam Redding and RCBS 10-10, both of which I've had a long time. Fortunately, the scales have always been right on.
 
I have tried 3 different digital scales and all have the same problems. I have turned off all the flourescent lighting, cell phone and stereo in my shop. I have no fans and don't breathe/blow on the digitals and place them on the same spot on my bench every use.I have warmed the scales under a incandecent desk lamp, kept them on for several minutes and still got "zero" variations and nearly impossible trickling up (going very slow readout can and usually does, jump .2 gr heavy. ). My solution is to calibrate before any use, "tare" frequently, and double check against one of my beam scales. When setting up powder charges I use my beam scales (Lyman/Ohaus D5 and RCBS 5-10 which are checked for zero every session.). I get the target weight and put it on my digital. Quite often the weights will differ slightly but since the digital is a bit faster, I'll used the weight shown on the digital as the "target" for the digital. Often double checking with a beam scale. For a load workup I weigh every charge and keep charges (hand gun cartridges) to .1 grain and this is the best method for my using of digital scales...

Consistent powder charges isn't merely a safety issue, but an intrigal part of reloading; "double check everything". Having been reloading for about 40 years using my "Go slow, double check everything and most important, have fun" philosophy I have had one squib (1971) and no Kabooms...
 
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I have had a Lyman DPS [Digital Powder System] for almost 20 years. I need the 30 minute warm up for accuracy when throwing powder. When weighing bullets or cases a 2 minute warm up seems to do just fine. I let the DPS come to the charge and settle then toss it onto the balance beam scale the first three times. Following that verification I only check weights every 10th time. I cannot keep a cell phone on my person without having to re-calibrate often. The fluorescent light gets unplugged. I am ok listening to audio files with the phone 6 feet away but not nearer.

Pretty close to my Lyman DPS procedure. I set the powder charge weight, and use a Lee dipper to throw a slightly smaller charge into the pan, then let the Lyman dripper take it to full weight. I do a weight check on the Lyman DPS around every 10th load using my beam balance. I have never yet had a reason to not trust the Lyman's accuracy. I normally do not use the DPS for handgun loads, only rifle loads. Too slow. I just use the Lyman 55 powder measure for handgun loads.

I also do a visual powder level inspection using a flashlight of all charged cases before bullet seating, no matter whether I use the DPS or the Lyman 55 measure.
 
I use an electronic scale to calibrate then periodically recheck drops from my powder measure. My scale is simple, just the pan, the measures are RCBS, ‘Uniflow & ‘Little Dandy’. If doing just a handful, I weigh every charge.

I often use a light bullet to check my scale. I still have my balance beam scale, mostly backup now.
 
A few months back I had a new handloader with a new electronic scale that defaulted to gram instead of grain ask for help. Due to a 9mm load converting a glock 43 to a paperweight, he asked me to look over his setup.

As I was looking at his scales, powder, etc, I heard him use the term gram. I said you mean grain? It's a miracle things weren't catastrophic.

He was seating 147gr bullets into cases well overcharged with HP38.

.325 reading on his scale is 5+ grains. He read this as being a suggested 3.25 grain/gram charge.

I shook my head in disbelief.

Inexperience, an inexpensive jewelers scale, a lack of understanding all g's aren't the same, and the decimals place is quite important cost this fellow a pistol.
 
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I can see several possible problems in what you are doing. First off is that brass of the same lot and manufacturer is not that precise on weights so weighing loaded cases to establish charge accuracy is not an good way to check powder charge accuracy.
I got to ask what cartridge are you loading and what powder are you using?
I have never found a need to trickle up charges except for extruded stick powder.
I have been loading for 55 years and have never blown up a gun and only one blown primer due to an idiot mistake of bullet seating depth with 223 many years ago. I think my safety record if pretty good.
I use a balance beam scale because that is what I have and back in my working days I used electronic scales quite a lot and had problems with them often. I was always buying a new scale due to problems. Never developed the trust in them that would make me comfortable using them with pressures of 30 -65,000 psi. I am sure very good ones are out there but I have not encountered them yet.
I used RCBS equipment for the most part. Uniflow powder measure and a balance beam scale that is close to 50 years old. I always use loading blocks. I use a single stage press. Sold my progressive as I got tired of fixing malfunctions and not trusting the thing but I digress. Mostly I don't need one these days. After charging the cases I am loading. I normally load in 50 or 100 round batches. I visually check all cases to verify consistent charge levels. I also check my measure every 10 rounds with ball powder. I always trickle up rifle round using stick powder such as the IMR powders. For smooth metering ball or small flake powder in handgun I do not trickle powder same for ball powder in rifle as I found it to be unnecessary if checking thrown weights often. I am not a benchrester so I do not weigh cases except occasionally as a matter of personal curiosity.
When you weigh loaded cartridges for charge accuracy there are to many possible variables for this to be an acceptable procedure unless every component is weighed and selected for batch accuracy prior to assembly. Way to much trouble for me.
 
Yep, I'm keeping my trusty old Lyman 1000 beam scale. It seems to be accurate, it is consistent, it requires no batteries, and it still works when the power goes out.
 
I worked in an analytical lab that used several high end electronic scales. They were very accurate. They either had a breeze shield or required to be placed in one. They had EM shielding. They required calibration checks on a weekly basis. They also cost $5000 or more and this was 15 years ago.

An electronic scale costing only a few hundred dollars I would trust no further than I can throw it. Certainly would not trust it to consistently measure charges to the tenth of a gram.

Nothing wrong with a good beam scale. If you need to have an electronic version you should still have a beam scale to regularly check weights.

I'm using the Redding single beam scale my father used over 50 years ago and it is still as accurate as the day he bought it. And by the sound of many of the posts here, it is not really that much slower than the latest and greatest. What was it that P.T. Barnum said about customers?

John, living big in the dark ages.
 
I worked in an analytical lab that used several high end electronic scales. They were very accurate. They either had a breeze shield or required to be placed in one. They had EM shielding. They required calibration checks on a weekly basis. They also cost $5000 or more and this was 15 years ago.

An electronic scale costing only a few hundred dollars I would trust no further than I can throw it. Certainly would not trust it to consistently measure charges to the tenth of a gram.

Nothing wrong with a good beam scale. If you need to have an electronic version you should still have a beam scale to regularly check weights.

I'm using the Redding single beam scale my father used over 50 years ago and it is still as accurate as the day he bought it. And by the sound of many of the posts here, it is not really that much slower than the latest and greatest. What was it that P.T. Barnum said about customers?

John, living big in the dark ages.

Perhaps the best post in this thread so far that says it all.
 
My Lee Safety Powder scale (a balance beam scale) arrived just before the weekend. I made sure to read and review the instructions multiple times, as well as play with the scale to learn calibration and setting for desired charge weights, prior to using it. Part of the calibration included using a Lee dipper and the dipper chart in Lee's Modern Reloading book to verify the accuracy of the scale with my powder.

I am happy to report that the scale is simple to use once you learn how to properly use it. I was able to load up 50 rounds this weekend and the scale performed very well! I am very happy with my Lee balance beam scale, and my reloading efforts are back on track!
 
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Glad you are back in business. Personally, I think a good balance beam is just as fast and easy to use as most electronic scales.
 
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