A Little Rattle Can

[Triggs75]

Wanted a little change with my 15-22 so i figured I would change the color. I used Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote color from brownells.

I stripped it down, blue taped the holes, hung and sprayed away.

The next morning I removed the blue tape very carefully. I also put the mags back together carefully.

My plan was to put a spikes 12" BAR Rail on it but that did not work. I guess not all rails will work on this rifle. I got the adapter from tractical22 but the way the BAR rail works, it left about a 1/4" gap in between the rail and the upper receiver. So I guess I will keep the BAR rail for my next AR15 build.

More pics to come when the paint finishes curing, so probably next weekend I will put her back together.

Before:

After:

And with it's Cousin the Sig 226 Scorpion:

Chad

 

[Shooterjgs]

Can't wait to see it after its back together... I think there's threads on fixing that gap problem... Good luck.

 

[w0ady]

+1, cant wait for assembled pics.

 

[Majorlk]

Likewise ...

 

[stimr2]

+1 I really digg the color.

Jelly Bean

 

[Triggs75]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna do my best to hold off until next weekend to let the paint dry all the way. But if I know myself it will probably be sooner.

Chad

 

[alexwolf1216]

I am digging the painting method. I never would have thought of that.

 

[Argonnakid]

Looks good, surpising how much a little bit of spray paint can change the looks.

 

[Beuford T. Rimfire]

I have several rattle-canned rifles. All have held up really well. I think the mistake most people make, as you mentioned, is handling and assembling the components too soon. Yes, the can may say it's dry to handle in 15 minutes, but "Dry" and "Set" are two different qualities. I try to wait about 7 days before handling much or assembling. Then I give everything a solid two weeks from that point before putting it into use. So far I've had great results.

I love that color. Best of luck with your build. Run a search about the gap issue you had on the handguard. Someone else had the same issue when trying to install a Troy handguard. Tacticool22 helped him out with that issue if my memory serves correctly.

 

[Triggs75]

I am digging the painting method. I never would have thought of that.

Thanks. To me its easier to take apart and paint then to try and paint when its assembled.

Chad

 

[Triggs75]

I have several rattle-canned rifles. All have held up really well. I think the mistake most people make, as you mentioned, is handling and assembling the components too soon. Yes, the can may say it's dry to handle in 15 minutes, but "Dry" and "Set" are two different qualities. I try to wait about 7 days before handling much or assembling. Then I give everything a solid two weeks from that point before putting it into use. So far I've had great results.

I love that color. Best of luck with your build. Run a search about the gap issue you had on the handguard. Someone else had the same issue when trying to install a Troy handguard. Tacticool22 helped him out with that issue if my memory serves correctly.

Thanks and yeah it's tough during the waiting period but its worth it. I had the parts out in the sun yesterday sun bathing to help with the curing process.

And I saw the gap issue resolution with the troy handguard, unfortunately not the same with the BAR rail. No biggy though because I have a couple extra AR lowers so now I have a rail for one.

 

[Gunzilla]

Thanks and yeah it's tough during the waiting period but its worth it. I had the parts out in the sun yesterday sun bathing to help with the curing process.

And I saw the gap issue resolution with the troy handguard, unfortunately not the same with the BAR rail. No biggy though because I have a couple extra AR lowers so now I have a rail for one.

Saw a youtube video that showed a guy installing the Troy Vtac hand guard, he had a gap issue and had to trim some material off the lower pivot pin housing to close the gap....it apparently worked out based on the final assembly results.

 

[Triggs75]

Well I put her all together today and have to say I am pretty happy with the looks of it. Also the rattle can paint cured pretty well and seems to be holding strong. The Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote color is a good match to the Magpul FDE color. I will not be able to take it out for 2 more weeks but this will give it more time to cure so I am ok with it.

I added the Battle Arms Ambi safety, thanks simple! If you do decide to get one definitely go through simple weapon solutions as he is very fast with shipping and is helping us out.


I also added the KNS pins as well.

Before:

After:

And here she is with her Cousin the Sig 226 Scorpion

 

[Majorlk]

Nicely Done.

Now add an enlarged mag release button and Speed Bolt Release from NDZ for the final touches.

Magazine Release Button
SBR Speed Bolt Release

 

[Gunzilla]

Looks great, but you forgot the barrel shroud and the scope.

 

[strobro32]

That is very nice. Good job.

But, I thing desert tan would have camouflaged better with the shag carpet.

 

[Triggs75]

Nicely Done.

Now add an enlarged mag release button and Speed Bolt Release from NDZ for the final touches.

Magazine Release Button
SBR Speed Bolt Release

Thanks. I am thinking about the SBR and the anodized Charging Handle from them.

Looks great, but you forgot the barrel shroud and the scope.

Thanks, I was thinking about rattle canning the Scope Mount but not the scope.

That is very nice. Good job.

But, I thing desert tan would have camouflaged better with the shag carpet.

Gotta love the shag

 

[Majorlk]

Don't pass up the enlarged mag release button. It's one of my favorite additions.

 

[BP_Z28]

That looks awesome. Great work! How did you remove the quad rail and the barrel?

 

[Triggs75]

Don't pass up the enlarged mag release button. It's one of my favorite additions.

I'll take a look at it

That looks awesome. Great work! How did you remove the quad rail and the barrel?

Thanks! YOu get a Barrel nut wrench from this Tacticool22 guy.

http://www.tacticool22.com


It's pretty easy to do. Just make sure when you are unscrewing the nut, you have the barrel pointing down. This is because the barrel comes out the back of the upper and you do not want to damage the ejector that is hanging off of the back of the barrel.

Chad