Accuracy Expectations

Although a progressive reloader is nice, you can crank a lot of ammo out of a regular single stage press. I have a couple of RCBS JR pressses I am going to be putting up in the for sale section soon. That a set of dies, shell holder, a scale (you can by small digital scales cheap now) a powder measure and your good to go.

If you spend say $200 for the basic equipment and dies, a pound of powder is around $30 and 1000 primers the same. Bullets lead say $60 for 500or $80 for plated Using your brass and keeping the loads down say 500 rounds for a lb of powder means about $300-400 for your first 500 rounds, then the equipment has paid for itself and the next 500 will be about $125 up depending on the powder and the bullets.
 
This could sound like a really stupid question, but are you (OP) wearing ear protection when you shoot? I think you're flinching. You can do a lot better. With some practice you might even amaze yourself. Assuming the gun is screwed together right you can get some really excellent results from one of those.
 
I shoot a lot and still have trouble flinching with a .44 mag. With my Model 14 shooting 148gr wadcutters at 15 yards you could probably cover a 12 shot group with a silver dollar. Pick up my Model 29 with 8 3/8" barrel and you would need a paper plate to cover the 15 yard 12 shot group. If I really take my time and focus on control I can get much better, but it's hard not to flinch with a .44.
 
What do you guys think about aiming with both eyes open - or aiming with your dominant eye? I was clueless about this whole issue and last night tested my eyes. My left eye is clearly dominant over my right and I also do not have astigmatism in my left eye. I do in the right.

Also where do you all recommend trying to hold the target? 6 o'clock hold? Dead center?
 
I've got this 629 the barrel is heavy but it sits on target real nice and pounds a target at 50 yards plus..
 

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As noted above, .44 Special rounds till you are comfortable with the gun, then move up to some .44 Mag 220 grain slugs then the 240 grain rounds.
 
What do you guys think about aiming with both eyes open - or aiming with your dominant eye? I was clueless about this whole issue and last night tested my eyes. My left eye is clearly dominant over my right and I also do not have astigmatism in my left eye. I do in the right.

Also where do you all recommend trying to hold the target? 6 o'clock hold? Dead center?

Aim with your dominant eye, and keep both eyes open. Closing one eye effects your depth of field plus keeping your other eye open allows your peripheral vision in that eye to see anything approaching (in your case) your right side.

Hold depends on the target. For bullseye targets, I recommend 6 o'clock with the black center resting on top of the front sight. I was taught that in bullseye, it's too hard to judge properly when the front sight is centered as opposed to seeing the black center on top of the sight post, so that's the way I shoot. However for silhouette targets, I recommend aiming for center of the target. To help your eye find that, you can get some cheap stick on round dots used for pricing things, at Staples or Office Max and stick them in the center of the silhouette. You can get them in orange or white.

If you are an older shooter and find it difficult to focus on both sights and the target, there are a couple of tricks you can use. One is to experiment with a piece of cardboard with a real small hole drilled in it. Start small, and keep increasing until you can see both sights and the target focused when looking through the hole. Then either put a piece of tape with the same size hole on your shooting glasses or you can actually buy a contraption that clips on your glasses with a dial of various size holes. A second trick is to focus primarily on the front and rear sight. Your eye will tend to find the center of the target on it's own, even if it's not in focus. I've proven this to folks by turning targets backwards and shooting the center out. The last trick is IMHO the hardest to use, which is getting bifocal glasses and alternating between the two lenses when focusing, but I don't recommend this, as I believe it adds eyestrain and really not needed in the first place if you use one of the first two methods.

Also, although you never asked, I'll throw in some info on holding the firearm. Don't try to strangle it, but hold it firmly. One of the keys to good groups is being able to repeat the same grip each time, as grip affects the effects of recoil, which in turn has an affect on the movement of the gun as the bullet is leaving the barrel. It's impossible to keep the gun from moving when recoiling, so the next best thing is to have move the same each time, and your grip will impact this more than many people realize. To aid in this, practice dry firing, watching the front sight. If the sight remains stationary, your doing it right. If it moves at all, you aren't. Practicing dry firing can get boring, so turn on a good western and practice shooting the bad guys, cows, whatever.

And once again, someone's asked me what time it is and I've told them how to build a clock. I do get verbose from time to time. :o
 
Without going into great detail I have another thread discussing the functional problems I had with the gun when first used. The ammunition on hand right now is 240g@1180. I don't have anything else to test with and need to re-test this weekend. So I am using what I have until it's gone. Afterwards I will switch over to specials until I get more practiced and have the basics down.

While testing tomorrow my plan is to experiment with the sight picture and the target with the gun unloaded first. With my hands resting on a bag. When ready I will slowly peel off 3-4 shots single action. See where they hit. Then go from there.

Will try with my eyes open, six o'clock hold, and using my dominant eye to aim per the suggestion above.

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I found this article to be informative. I'm sure it is all common knowledge around here.
Proper Sight Alignment and the Keys to Accuracy - USA Carry
 
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Just practice the basics: stance, grip, trigger pull and don't worry about the groupings.

THIS IS SOUND ADVICE. DON'T GET DISCOURAGED. EVERYONE STARTS SHOOTING AT THE SAME POINT. SOME OF US PROGRESS, BY MASTERING THE BASICS......
 
Shot it again today to test if the fail to fire issue from the previous experience was fixed. So far so good.

I had a friend of mine and the range master both shoot the gun and they were much better than I was. 10 yards out and either right on target or very close. Even off a rest I was shooting low and left every time.

Obviously I have a long way to go towards fixing the flinch. The difficulty is the sub conscious nature of the problem. Trying to relax, pulling the trigger slow, just didn't seem to do the trick for me today. I still had fun though!

I really don't see dry firing helping me much in and of itself. If I know the cylinder is empty then I'm not going to flinch. I need to be at the range with a mix of live ammunition and snap caps in the cylinder. But even if I catch myself doing it using this method - what is the magic fix to solving the problem? Sure going to .44 special might help a bit but what else?
 
I know you have a supply of full power 240gr ammo remaining on hand. Stop shooting, set it aside for "later" . Obtain .44spl, or .44mag loaded to Cowboy Action (SASS) specs. Continuing to shoot what you have with an unresolved flinching problem will only worsen your problem , and make fixing it harder. If the as suitable ammo is not stocked at your local gunstore/ range, it is available from several sources on line.

The linked article gives a decent take on the basics of sighting. But with all due respect to the process of sighting, that is NOT your current area in need of greatest attention.

Trigger pull, trigger pull, trigger pull - Just like location, location, location in real estate. Break out your snap caps, and dry fire, SA and DA. Yes, start parallel practice of DA from the start, don't wait to perfect SA first.
 
Havent read the other entries, BUT groups are relevant.
If your shooting slow deliberate for accuracy 4-5 inches at 5-7 yards is not very good, for what ever reason, might be the gun/ammo/trigger control,etc. Take that out to 25 yards and it could miss the target. If its not the weapon then all is need is a bit of practice and those groups will tighten up pretty fast. Dry firing and watching the sights. With a 44 mag there is a bit of flinch factor to overcome , and it would be alot easier with a less pounding round. At least to practice.
If you shooting for speed,unsighted, or flash sighted, type defensive shooting and that group is within the desired area then thats pretty good.
Most all decent handguns even cheap ones will shoot one to two inch groups at 15 feet.
 
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Shot it again today to test if the fail to fire issue from the previous experience was fixed. So far so good.

I had a friend of mine and the range master both shoot the gun and they were much better than I was. 10 yards out and either right on target or very close. Even off a rest I was shooting low and left every time.

Obviously I have a long way to go towards fixing the flinch. The difficulty is the sub conscious nature of the problem. Trying to relax, pulling the trigger slow, just didn't seem to do the trick for me today. I still had fun though!

I really don't see dry firing helping me much in and of itself. If I know the cylinder is empty then I'm not going to flinch. I need to be at the range with a mix of live ammunition and snap caps in the cylinder. But even if I catch myself doing it using this method - what is the magic fix to solving the problem? Sure going to .44 special might help a bit but what else?

Let me apologize up front if you take this the wrong way, as I don't mean any disrespect in any way.

Since you stated you planned on using this for home defense and plinking, I strongly suggest you use for the latter and not the former. Relying on a handgun for self defense, at home or anywhere, requires a lot of practice, far more than you are going to be willing to do with a 44 magnum. I have more than a couple 44's and they stay in the safe. I use a 1911 variant, because I have been shooting them for 40 years. For home defense, I would instead recommend you buy a 12 gauge shotgun designed for that purpose. The reasons are very compelling. Learning to fire it is cheap. Unlike the 44, close counts, and it's also far easier to master. It has the additional benefit of being easy to teach others to use, like a spouse or older child. Defense shotguns are relatively cheap, new or used. And there are few scarier sounds at night that someone in the dark racking a shell into the chamber - a sound that is universally recognized.

So have fun plinking with your 44, but get a shotgun for self defense at home. ;)
 
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Shotgun is on the wish list just haven't gotten round to picking one up. A friend had a Mossberg 590 which I liked. May get one. In the short term I can hit a dinner plate out to 15-20 feet with the .44 which is what I need minimum for self defense at the house. I don't disagree the shotgun may be superior.

I appreciate the advise from everyone here. I am leaving to visit my father in law at their cabin on Friday and while there I want to show off the new Smith. I may not have time to obtain Specials.

So here is my plan. Take the snap caps and practice trigger pulls. Will have plenty of time for it. Mix in 1-2 live cartridges randomly. Practice. If this ends up being counter productive then stop. When I return from the vacation - will switch over to Specials exclusively until this is sorted out.

Sound reasonable?
 
"The trigger puller is the weakest link in the accuracy of any firearm"
Author unknown
 
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