racoonbeast
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- Jul 28, 2014
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I will echo that it would be very difficult to tell if a revolver has had three shots through it from the factory, or three plus six from the owner firing his new gun. Checking the area from the top of the barrel to the bottom of the top strap, as has been mentioned, is my first place to look. Fronts of cylinders can be cleaned off. That area is a little harder to get to and it does not take much firing to start flame scorching it a little and leaving a mark that can not be removed.
The thing that concerns me more than whether or not a gun has been fired is how much it has been played with. I have run into a number of guns that were advertised as "unfired" or "as new" that actually were fired very little, if at all. But, they were all but worn out from the cylinder being flopped open and slammed shut and/or ten million dry fires. I always check the back face of the recoil shield to see how much and what kind of wear there is there. I do a careful check of all functions to see if they are crisp and tight. I cock the hammer and see if I can "push it off". I drag my finger on the cylinder while I rotate it to lock up to make sure that it will without a push. Of course you want to check for cylinder end-shake (there should be none) or side to side cylinder wiggle (there will probably be a little, but not much) The "drag line" on the cylinder will give you a hint as well. They all have one. Well used ones have very pronounced ones. Actual new guns have little or no drag line.
I consider a new gun one that has just come from the distributor and is facing its first sale at the LGS. Someone might have a gun that he has bought from the LGS and put in his safe. But, that ain't a "new" gun anymore. I could consider it "like new" if everything else adds up. "New" commands listed retail price. "Like New" commands something less. It is up to you and the seller to figure out how much less that is.
The thing that concerns me more than whether or not a gun has been fired is how much it has been played with. I have run into a number of guns that were advertised as "unfired" or "as new" that actually were fired very little, if at all. But, they were all but worn out from the cylinder being flopped open and slammed shut and/or ten million dry fires. I always check the back face of the recoil shield to see how much and what kind of wear there is there. I do a careful check of all functions to see if they are crisp and tight. I cock the hammer and see if I can "push it off". I drag my finger on the cylinder while I rotate it to lock up to make sure that it will without a push. Of course you want to check for cylinder end-shake (there should be none) or side to side cylinder wiggle (there will probably be a little, but not much) The "drag line" on the cylinder will give you a hint as well. They all have one. Well used ones have very pronounced ones. Actual new guns have little or no drag line.
I consider a new gun one that has just come from the distributor and is facing its first sale at the LGS. Someone might have a gun that he has bought from the LGS and put in his safe. But, that ain't a "new" gun anymore. I could consider it "like new" if everything else adds up. "New" commands listed retail price. "Like New" commands something less. It is up to you and the seller to figure out how much less that is.
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