Advice on front sight change

[rdykmans]

I've got a 586 with a pinned front sight and I'm attempting to change it myself since there are no smiths around here that aren't 6 weeks plus turnaround. I've got the new blade, a .055 drill bit and a cupped tip punch (round head pin) coming.

Can anyone relate their experience is swapping one of these out? Should the pin drive out easily? I was planning on inserting the new blade and marking thru the existing hole in the mount and then drilling the blade independent of the gun. Is this the correct way to do it? I keep reading these need to be "fitted" and I don't want to assume this is a simple process.

thanks for any tips including a "don't do it" if you think it's too complicated.

 

[epj]

I've been trying to get this done on my 686 for more than 6 months. The 686 has a roll pin which refuses to come out. If your 586 has a round head pin and you have the correct punch, it shouldn't be too difficult. I have done this sort of swap on a Ruger with a pinned sight. Actually used a broken 1/16th drill bit to knock the old pin out.

When installing the new sight, I clamped the new sight into the groove and then used the sight hole as a guide to drill the new sight. You could mark the sight and then drill out of the gun, but be sure the hole is perpendicular to the mark. On the Ruger, it took me about ten minutes to complete the change. The 686 is still waiting.

 

[dfariswheel]

The "usual" is to drill the sight while its OUT of the barrel.
Doing it in the barrel risks a drifting drill bit and a ruined barrel, or the pin hole enlarged to the point the pin won't stay put.

The trick is to drill the hole in the blade slightly undersized, then use a needle file or a broach to enlarge the hole, "bumping" the hole toward the top of the sight blade.
The idea is to have the hole in the blade VERY, very slightly off-center toward the top.
This is so when the pin is installed, the blade is pulled down into its seat in the barrel with no looseness.

If this seems to be a little too much work, drill the hole on target, and use some Loctite to help hold it solidly in place.

To remove the pin, the trick here is, as always with pins, get the barrel in a well supported, no bounce-no move setup. If the barrel moves when struck, the pin will have a tendency to distort and lock in place tighter.
Second trick is to cut off a punch to about 1/2" to 3/4" working length to make a "Starter punch".
This shorter length prevents the punch from bending or flexing and directs all the force to the pin.
Once its moving out, switch to a standard punch.

 

[rdykmans]

Thanks guys!

 

[frankw]

I did my own a year or so ago.
I ordered the correct size drill bit and punch from Brownells along with a couple of extra pins just to be safe.

I punched out the old pin. I inserted the new undrilled sight in place. I drilled from one side just enough to start the hole. I then drilled from the other side the same amount. I then removed the sight and completed drilling the hole.

Installed my new Fiber Optic sight and installed the pin. It has been fine ever since.
Actually the sight fits so tight, it would probably stay forever with a drop of locktite and no pin!

 

[*Klutch*]

use a brass hammer PLEASE, otherwise you will mark the finish of your gun like I did to my SP101 and even though I smoothed most of it out I still know it's there...

 

[robotoid]

I've done several and always drilled the sight with it in place in the barrel. You just need to be slow and steady. I used a dremel tool, as the wire gauge drill bit was too small for anything else. If you are off even the slightest it will be nearly impossible to get the pin back in. The pin holes in the barrel act as a guide for me. A cup tip punch is a MUST. I ruined alot of pins trying to do it with homemade punches (broken drill bits, nails, brads). I was ordering pins from S&W 6 at a time for 1 job. I'm currently looking at changing out my 640-1 to either s XS standard dot or a fiber optic.

 

[imashooter2]

When I put the SDM sight on my 686 I punched out the roll pin with a filed flat brad, then drilled the sight through with a hand drill. Drill about half way through, then flip the gun and finish the hole from the other side. It was an easy job.

 

[rdykmans]

I just gave it a try. Pin came right out using a specialty Brownell's cupped head punch. New blade was a nice tight fit and I drilled it in place from both sides using a .055 bit. Seemed like I got decent alignment with the new hole. Pin went in about halfway before it hung up and disfigured the pin head at that point. Anyhow I stopped there and have ordered a couple of more pins. I think I'll lightly ream the hole out a bit and try again with a new pin. No harm to the sight base or blade only the pin so I'm satisfied I'll get it done right with a new pin and a bit more careful alignment. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[308]

I made a custom blade for my 65-3, a partridge, and I drilled part way from both sides and finished up out of the gun, just don't get in a hurry and it will go fine.

Another trick is if the sight is a little loose in the slot or the pin holes seem a little big for the pin (loose fit), you can put a slight and I mean slight bend in the pin and when it goes in the bend will hole everything tight. 308

 

[n4zov]

This is all a lot easier if you use a drill press rather than a hand drill!