Advice on Shopping for a 27

Retired W4 - thank you for your wisdom -- strange to think few SW collectors in Atlanta, I'm in Texas and am still trying to learn what the market is like. I'm also going to have to learn how buying from the forum works --but that's for another day
Hawg Rider - you're absolutely right, I think the -2s are excellent and still meet my base criteria of "pinned & recessed" and its not so much about my obsession with "pinned and recessed" or even dashes its more about me using the dashes and no-dashes as proxies for date of birth. Prior to finding this great forum I was more concentrated on old SAA Colts, Browning HPs and 45s and my obsession with the 45s that I was chasing was all about a phenomenon that was common in the early S&W guns but now seems "boutique" in the world of 45s: The idea that a master gunmaker literally hand fitted your gun. So, in the world of 45s I was chasing Nighthawks and Wilson Combats all over the notion that they are building their guns via the "old school hand fitted by a master" concept. In today's world that process means "high dollar" pistols but back when I was 5 years old that was simply the way most all Smiths and Colts were made: They weren't "assembled" they were "fitted". So when my attention turned to revolvers the first thing I looked at was Korth (hand fitted and big dollars). But then I thought: "wait, isn't that kinda the way all reputable pistols were made back in the day, before the world of CNC and "assemblers". So, to me that is the major draw for me in old Smiths--- the older they are, the more likely they were made by a "master" and not an "assembler". So, for me the dashes simply tell me how old a gun is and the premise I'm using is the older the more likely a "master" -----Everything I just said may be totally wrong but that is the delusion I'm working from. For me -2 are definitely awesome because they're still from the "age in time" that I'm interested in ---Plus I already had learned (just from shopping) that all things being equal, -3s are less expensive than -2 but I had not yet learned how much more a no dash would cost. As an example, I found several very nice -3 for around $800-$900 but the -2 seemed to be more like $1000-$1200 what I didn't know yet was how much NO DASH would further bump the price ''> but from what I learned from you great folks is that the answer to that question is closer to $1500. Bear in mind, -3/-2 I have yet to see any of those I thought was not an excellent firearm. So again, for me, it was all about chasing age and I also think it's kinda cute to the think the gun I'm shooting was born pretty much the same time I was.
 
Retired W4 - thank you for your wisdom -- strange to think few SW collectors in Atlanta, I'm in Texas and am still trying to learn what the market is like. I'm also going to have to learn how buying from the forum works --but that's for another day
Hawg Rider - you're absolutely right, I think the -2s are excellent and still meet my base criteria of "pinned & recessed" and its not so much about my obsession with "pinned and recessed" or even dashes its more about me using the dashes and no-dashes as proxies for date of birth. Prior to finding this great forum I was more concentrated on old SAA Colts, Browning HPs and 45s and my obsession with the 45s that I was chasing was all about a phenomenon that was common in the early S&W guns but now seems "boutique" in the world of 45s: The idea that a master gunmaker literally hand fitted your gun. So, in the world of 45s I was chasing Nighthawks and Wilson Combats all over the notion that they are building their guns via the "old school hand fitted by a master" concept. In today's world that process means "high dollar" pistols but back when I was 5 years old that was simply the way most all Smiths and Colts were made: They weren't "assembled" they were "fitted". So when my attention turned to revolvers the first thing I looked at was Korth (hand fitted and big dollars). But then I thought: "wait, isn't that kinda the way all reputable pistols were made back in the day, before the world of CNC and "assemblers". So, to me that is the major draw for me in old Smiths--- the older they are, the more likely they were made by a "master" and not an "assembler". So, for me the dashes simply tell me how old a gun is and the premise I'm using is the older the more likely a "master" -----Everything I just said may be totally wrong but that is the delusion I'm working from. For me -2 are definitely awesome because they're still from the "age in time" that I'm interested in ---Plus I already had learned (just from shopping) that all things being equal, -3s are less expensive than -2 but I had not yet learned how much more a no dash would cost. As an example, I found several very nice -3 for around $800-$900 but the -2 seemed to be more like $1000-$1200 what I didn't know yet was how much NO DASH would further bump the price ''> but from what I learned from you great folks is that the answer to that question is closer to $1500. Bear in mind, -3/-2 I have yet to see any of those I thought was not an excellent firearm. So again, for me, it was all about chasing age and I also think it's kinda cute to the think the gun I'm shooting was born pretty much the same time I was.

In the S&W "bible" it lists 27 no dash versions worth double what a -2 goes for.
 
Originally Posted by Mstorm
She said: "Son, some things in this world are yours and some things aren't, if you look carefully and are very patient, the things that are yours will come to you, but you'll have to look and you'll have to wait for them to find you and for you to actually "see" them when they appear. That truck was looking for that little boy, not you and he was smart enough to see it. Yours is still looking for you and eventually you and it will find each other. When you get older you'll come to learn that the world will give you what is yours but you'll have to work hard and be very patient till that time comes and you'll have to be prepared to see it when it arrives. I really want you to remember what I just told you, its important"

That is just beautiful! Advice to live by.
 
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Toroflow1: Thanks for that info, I'm assuming you meant the SW Catalog book (I ordered an older version to save a few bucks--now seems like a truly stupid choice---especially since they've delayed the shipping twice now). Didn't know that current thinking was no-dash worth twice as much as a -2, seems a bit much but then again, I know from SAA Colts that a "marking" can double or even triple values ---we collectors are interesting folks. I kinda straddle the fence between collector and shooter. I have a real fondness for well kept but well used "shooters" as much as those others that you don't even wanna touch without gloves on--and buy both kinds.
 
Toroflow1: Thanks for that info, I'm assuming you meant the SW Catalog book (I ordered an older version to save a few bucks--now seems like a truly stupid choice---especially since they've delayed the shipping twice now). Didn't know that current thinking was no-dash worth twice as much as a -2, seems a bit much but then again, I know from SAA Colts that a "marking" can double or even triple values ---we collectors are interesting folks. I kinda straddle the fence between collector and shooter. I have a real fondness for well kept but well used "shooters" as much as those others that you don't even wanna touch without gloves on--and buy both kinds.

One other thing to look for is throat erosion; make sure the barrel has a nice sharp edge from barrel face to bore, and not eroded away.
 
Here's a 27nd 8" that I just got off Gunbroker. $1080 + ship & tax. You can find sleepers on Gunbroker, a few 6" 27-2s going for well under $1k.
27nd-8.jpg
 
Toroflow1:Very awesome!!! nicely done! How much are they hitting you for shipping? Also two more sub-questions: 1) are those diamond grips, don't they add to cost (always wondered how much more diamond grips bring to the cost) and 2) are nickel versions generally more expensive or less expensive or about the same as blued versions??
Again, very very nicely done
 
You should just PM W4 and work a deal. That's a fine looking example he has.

Get W4 address send him a nice bottle of scotch , when he is in the middle of downing said bottle PM him with a fair price from the 1980s and score your 27!!
 
Moonsterman: That's hilarious, such a great forum--great information and fun to boot---wise counsel. I might but I think I have a lead on one, going to check next week. Life is an exercise in patience.
 
Get W4 address send him a nice bottle of scotch , when he is in the middle of downing said bottle PM him with a fair price from the 1980s and score your 27!!

I'll give you my address but you will have to send George Dickel single barrel. I'll put it on a shelf for guests as I don't drink any more. Gave it up several years ago.

How many percentage points do you subtract for non-matching magnas? How many for an Excellent Condition gun that has one little ding on the barrel rib? How many percentage point do you subtract for a 1/8" rub on the cokes on an otherwise perfect 4" 44 Magnum from 1956? I could go on but a thinking man would get my point.

One should never evaluate expensive high condition guns when drunk, but for those of you that do, have at it. One should never post on the forum when drunk, but who am I to judge.
 
One should never evaluate expensive high condition guns when drunk, but for those of you that do, have at it. One should never post on the forum when drunk, but who am I to judge.

I'll add one to that "One should never get on Gun Broker when drunk."

I've never done it but from some of the bidding battles we've seen I suspect one or two have.

Jeff
SWCa #1457
 

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