AFTER READING MANY OF THE 1911 OWNERS MANUALS ON LUBRICATION...........

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Since the subject of 1911 Pistol lubrication (brands, types, grease vs oil) comes up at least once a week, I figured since I am home currently suffering from a Winter Cold I'd do some research.

After reading many of the popular 1911 Owners Manuals and the US Army 1911 manual regarding lubrication, I did not see one single instance where they recommended the use of Grease. Even Wilson Combat that markets a Grease, ONLY recommends that it be used on "WELL WORN" pistols and not to use their thicker lube on anything BUT well worn guns (in their video).

So I believe that while many of us here do use and have used Grease (including me), we should probably stick to what the Manufacturer's are telling us in their Owner's Manual and maybe not think that we know better.

While I will admit to using Grease on really hot days and when shooting hot loads, I think that they must know better and I will now be sticking to using Oil 100% of the time.

PS: not saying Grease won't lube your 1911, but they must have their reasoning - collection of dirt, debris, unburnt powder residue, thickening when cold outside, what ever....... I guess they weighed all and came up with OIL. :o
 
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I was cleaning my Springer last night, remember greasing the rails just slightly last summer, I thought. I only put a couple mags through it since. Those rails were as dirty as I have ever seen them. I didn't re grease.
 
I think first people have to be honest with themselves as to how much they shoot. I shoot my 1911 rarely. Maybe a 1000 rounds a year. I don't get over analytical about lubrication. A little oil, wipe off excess and done.

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When we were issued rifles and handguns in the Corps they were coated in grease called cosmolone. It was intended to prevent rust or other corrosion in storage. It had to be cleaned off completely. After that we never used any kind of grease on the guns. We used a light coat of oil. We were instructed to apply the oil leanly and that a light coating should be lightly wiped down so that all that in a surface was a very light film of oil. It the oil could run or be easily seen you knew you were going to fail inspection.

Many people overdo gun lubrication. I use Rem oil and Remington DriLube. Many pundits complain that Remool evaporates tooo fast, but it does not. Used properly it leaves a microscopic film of oil that you can’t see but that lubricated the metal to metal parts. DitLube does the dame thing, but it can accurate so it has to be cleaned off before a new application. I use it when I am going out into very cold weather because the Teflon does not congeal in cold like oil does.

In agreement with the OP I would,like to see any authoritative source, like military armorers or manufacturers who advise grease or heavy applications of oil. I don’t know of any.
 
I mentioned this in another thread, but I think as long as the gun is properly lubed there shouldn't be any problems. I've used grease on 1911s and they worked fine. I've used oil on 1911s and they worked fine. I clean my guns regularly and lube them when I do, so oil is what I use.

As to the topic of overlubing a gun, I found this video interesting:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9bOT_d60LM[/ame]

While I wouldn't do this to any of my guns, and the presenters advise against overlubing to the degree they did in the video, I'm not convinced having a little extra lube is going to cause an issue. I would rather put a little too much lube than not enough. When I lube my Beretta 92FS, and in the past when I've used oil on 1911s, I put enough lube on the frame and slide rails that racking the slide a few times results in a little bit of run-off, which I wipe away when done lubing. Never had an issue, even when shooting during qualifications and training courses on sandy ranges.

As always, just my opinion.
 
I use a mixture of a high quality grease and gun oil. I thin the grease to the point it is nearly flowing. I use a little paint brush and dab it on the rails.

Since I carry my 1911 daily it helps to keep oil on the rails and not work its way down the slide and rails and into my pants.

I shoot my gun several times a week and when I open it up to give it a quick clean, the rails are nice and lubed and no extra fouling that I can see.. I'm happy with my choice.
 
I just use a few drops of oil on the rails,lugs,bushing and barrel.Somewhere beyond 100 rounds of my filthy reloads I might get a failure to fully chamber.If I'd ever remember to take some lube with me I bet I could really get that flinch locked in permanently ;-)
 
I am certainly no expert on lubrication, but in my practical life experience, I have personally observed 1911's and other autos with steel slides and aluminum frames that were lubed with oil, and suffered pre-mature wear on the frame rails. On the flip side, steel slide and alloy framed pistols that were lubed "well" with grease didn't suffer the same amount of wear.
In my own personal experience, I have an S&W 1911SC that has been shot often and shows minimal signs of frame wear. I use an over abundance of white lithium grease all the time. My good friend has the same pistol, and has used only "gun" oil, and after only 100 rounds, the finish started to wear off the frame rails. Now, 1,000 or so rounds later, ALL the finish has been worn off the rails, while mine with several times more rounds fired, is only slightly worn in just a couple areas.
Certainly one can do what they want with their pistols, but I will continue to use grease, and probably to much in many observers eyes.
 
From the 1940 edition of FM-23-35 AUTOMATIC PISTOL, CAL. .45, M1911 AND M19I1A1

"CAUTION.—After firing do not oil the bore before cleaning.
c. Saturate a clean flannel patch with sperm oil and swab
the bore and chamber with the patch, making certain that
the bore and all metal parts of the pistol are covered with a
thin coat of oil.'

Sperm oil works rally well but it's not easy to get these days.
 
The only grease I've heard mentioned with 'slide' guns is 'slide guide' I think from Brian Enos. Comes in three different types based on operating temperature.
The 1911 likes to 'run' wet in terms of an oil lube from readings over the years.
 
From my perspective, 99% of this debate about lubricants is marketing, and is meant to do one thing.....separate us from our money. Some of this stuff costs a fortune. Most of it is mineral oil or synthetic oil based.

The critical thing to remember is to keep both the externals and internals CLEAN with your solvent or cleaner of choice, and, after cleaning, lubricate sparingly with a product you trust.....preferably something designed specifically for firearms.

Take it from this very old armorer.....more firearms are damaged and stop running from dirt, abuse, and neglect than have ever been damaged by the specific type of friction fighter that was used or over-used. Follow your gun's owner's manual recommendations. Take note of the term "light oil" when it is used in your owner's manual.

Shoot your firearms often, clean and relube them after you shoot them, function check your carry guns as often as possible, keeping in mind the type of environment your carry gun will be exposed to (cold), and choose your cleaners and favorite lubricants accordingly.....then USE THEM.

Spend the money you save on ammo.
 
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I’ve never heard of greasing a 1911 but this thread does remind me of the little capsules of grease that you’re supposed to store in the butt stock of an m1 Garand rifle. Got a few of those laying around here you know the little vials with the yellow caps? and I’ve honestly never used them on a 1911 or on either of my m1’s! Maybe I need to read some directions...
 
I’ve never heard of greasing a 1911 but this thread does remind me of the little capsules of grease that you’re supposed to store in the butt stock of an m1 Garand rifle. Got a few of those laying around here you know the little vials with the yellow caps? and I’ve honestly never used them on a 1911 or on either of my m1’s! Maybe I need to read some directions...

MIL-G-46003 Lubriplate 130-A Multi-Purpose Grease is the commercial version of what's in the little yellow capped bottles. Here's what a GI can looked like back in the day. You'd think in 1963 a 1 pound can would be enough to lube every M14 in USAREUR!

ad185a68fc6fceaf6ff3d2d1b6aa.jpg
 
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