Alternative to expensive cylinder shims for endshake

[TAROMAN]

Something else nobody mentioned is the inside of the cylinder where the crane tube contacts usually needs to be cut flat since the crane tube batters it. So, the internal of the cylinder and end of the crane tube need to be squared up in order for the shims to be effective. After cleaning those up, then end shake is measured to determine the washers needed. Everything needs to be square and flat. Otherwise, the shims will eventually form to the dished out area in the cylinder and end shake will come back. Add more washers you say? Well, the cylinder will bind and be difficult to turn with the washers being squashed out of shape because of the dished out area in the cylinder.
This is from the S & W repair manual.

Absolutely correct.
I made a simple tool just for this task.
Faced the butt end of W letter drill flat.
Super glue wet/dry sandpaper to it.
The W drill is a perfect fit inside a S&W cylinder.
Insert, rotate by hand. Inspect. Repeat as necessary.
Don't forget to lubricate the washer(s).

 

[armorer951]

endshake

Taroman's idea for tooling ref the bearing surface in the interior of the cylinder is a great idea.

Ref the drill rod diameter needed for the interior of the cylinders:

J-frame (.22 cal) "U" letter drill (approx. .368")
J-frame (others) "M" letter drill (approx. .295")
K-frame/L-frame/N-frame "W" letter drill (approx. .385")

Be sure to measure your particular yoke barrel and cylinder yoke bore diameter before investing the time to make a tool for your particular application, as there are slight variations.

 

[jtcarm]

Shoot, shoulda posted a WTB, I've still got 8 of the Power .002 shims left. I spent a total of about $16 for 10.

I'll probably just hang on to them now. Yes they do increase BC gap. If barrel setback is only $200 that sounds fine on my 24-3, if it won't shoot well at the current .010.

 

[Hapworth]

...Yes they do increase BC gap. If barrel setback is only $200 that sounds fine on my 24-3, if it won't shoot well at the current .010.

Again, shims do not increase B-C gap; gap is measured holding the cylinder back, which shims also do -- gap remains unchanged.

.010" is within factory specs, your Model 24 should shoot fine unless something else is amiss...

 

[CScott]

Chances are that if your heavily used S&W needs end shake washers, your are not going to be happy unless another $150 - $200 is spent to set back the barrel.[/QUOTE]

My Model of 1950 44 Special had some endshake which I corrected with shims leaving a cylinder to barrel gap of 10 or 11 thousandths. I assure you that I am quite happy with this revolver as is.
Scott