AM I PRIMING THE CARTRIDGE CORRECTLY USING LYMAN AUTO FEED PRIMING TOOL?

I have done this. I was about the same age as the lad shown here but I remember it like it happened yesterday. Still sets my skin crawling...:eek:

Ditto, with a paper clip (or what was left of it!). Electricity has spooked me ever since.
 
Not sure if I can fire some by Sunday. I am currently now looking at how to use my 10-10 scale probably by wed but will post some pics. I plan on starting at the low end of 4.7 and working it up slowly to 6.0 to see how that works

Which is how it's done . Low to high
when I got started, from the moment the equipment was transfered from my car, to the moment the first rounds went downrange was less than 4 hours.
yes you can produce results under the enormously generous deadline of Sunday.
 
Just got a call from Lyman tech support and they mentioned something to the effect there is a large and a small one and they will mail me a large one whatever that meant. So I guess the unit should not be leaving any marks at all. I just hope the 20 cartridges I made will work and not misfire

I'm afraid I've never used the Lyman primer system either, and can't help you with it's operation.

I can give you a little information about this statement though. Primers come in a small and a large size and each uses their own size of primer plug. If you try to seat a small primer with the large plug it won't seat properly due to the fact that it doesn't fit inside the primer pocket and will only fit flush. If you try to seat a large primer with a small plug, it will work, but you get a small dimple in the primer.

If an item is made on a lathe and faced properly, there will be no "tit", however since this isn't a perfect world, defective plugs do occur and if they weren't faced properly they can leave a dimple also. The good news is that they can be cleaned up fairly easily with a small file, sandpaper or etc.
 
tit

I'm afraid I've never used the Lyman primer system either, and can't help you with it's operation.

I can give you a little information about this statement though. Primers come in a small and a large size and each uses their own size of primer plug. If you try to seat a small primer with the large plug it won't seat properly due to the fact that it doesn't fit inside the primer pocket and will only fit flush. If you try to seat a large primer with a small plug, it will work, but you get a small dimple in the primer.

If an item is made on a lathe and faced properly, there will be no "tit", however since this isn't a perfect world, defective plugs do occur and if they weren't faced properly they can leave a dimple also. The good news is that they can be cleaned up fairly easily with a small file, sandpaper or etc.

Ah! I think that was what he was talking about. He said the part I have may be defective so that is why they are sending me a new unit. I am thinking that is why I am getting those marks.
 
Lee auto prime...

I use the old Lee Auto prime... It has two trays one for each size primer.

It does leave a small dent. I'd like to have rounds that look like factory but other than that the auto prime works great.

The newer model has a trap door/baffle type affair to accept only one primer at a time. I've read that this doesn't work so hot. If you are paying attention to what you are doing, the old auto prime works fine. In trying to make it idiot proof, they complicated it to where it is unreliable.

With the old system, you tilt the device one way to load a primer, then tilt in the other direction to slide the other primers out of the way in case something should pop. I've gotten better at it after using it awhile.
 
I use the old Lee Auto prime... It has two trays one for each size primer.

It does leave a small dent. I'd like to have rounds that look like factory but other than that the auto prime works great.

The newer model has a trap door/baffle type affair to accept only one primer at a time. I've read that this doesn't work so hot. If you are paying attention to what you are doing, the old auto prime works fine. In trying to make it idiot proof, they complicated it to where it is unreliable.

With the old system, you tilt the device one way to load a primer, then tilt in the other direction to slide the other primers out of the way in case something should pop. I've gotten better at it after using it awhile.

I miss my old style auto prime.
So used and worn, the thing couldn't find the primer pocket anymore.
So I have the new version.
While I understand the concepts they engineered into it, the design needs some work.
 
yep

I use the old Lee Auto prime... It has two trays one for each size primer.

It does leave a small dent. I'd like to have rounds that look like factory but other than that the auto prime works great.

The newer model has a trap door/baffle type affair to accept only one primer at a time. I've read that this doesn't work so hot. If you are paying attention to what you are doing, the old auto prime works fine. In trying to make it idiot proof, they complicated it to where it is unreliable.

With the old system, you tilt the device one way to load a primer, then tilt in the other direction to slide the other primers out of the way in case something should pop. I've gotten better at it after using it awhile.

OK so now I know, the dents it is leaving is probably a bad design and why Lyman is sending me a new unit. Hopefully they got that fixed.
 
I notice that the tolerances....

OK so now I know, the dents it is leaving is probably a bad design and why Lyman is sending me a new unit. Hopefully they got that fixed.

I notice that the tolerances are very sloppy and the plunger that pushes the primer in is often way off center. This is when the dents come in. I know it's a mass produced, inexpensive product, but it could be a LOT closer.
 
I use my Lee press for all the operations. When I do the priming step I also expand the case mouth. The only thing to keep in mind is to only expand as far as you need to get the bullet started. Too much will weaken the case mouth and lead to case splitting earlier than normal. I would say you grossly over think the entire operation. With that being said, in the case of reloading, caution and care are a must. The only real confusion in priming may be using the wrong size priming tool for either small or large primers. .45acp were always made with large primers. Now some companies have switched to small and now all my .45 cases have to be inspected and separated. I only have a few with small primer pockets. Take your time, follow the recommended load for the caliber, powder type and bullet weight and type and you'll do fine.
 
not dumber

I don't want you to take this the wrong way, but you are either over thinking EVERYTHING, or dumber than a bag of hammers. I truly believe it is the former.

You should probably seek a mentor to help you with hands on advice. A beam scale is about as easy as it gets.
Sets the slides to zero.
Adjust the foot to make the pointer hit the line.
Adjust the slides to the desired amount.
Fill with powder until the bar points to the line.

With all the information available online, you could build ..... just about anything. How do you think people learned in the days before the internet? We read books mainly. I learned by reading the hornady loading manual, several times. It's still good reference material 30 years later. Read the instructions, try to make a few rounds, then read the instructions again. The instructions make more sense after you have practiced a little.

I have never reloaded before and the instructions that come with the tools are often vague and horrible. I did look up how to use the 10-10 scale on Utube and that made it very easy and simple. I really should have taken a class on this but they are pretty expensive. Anyway, I now know I have to start off at 4.7 grains so this means I will leave the big poiser at 0 and then use the micro to set that to 4.7 and then just add enough powder so the scale touches 0
 
I have never reloaded before and the instructions that come with the tools are often vague and horrible. I did look up how to use the 10-10 scale on Utube and that made it very easy and simple. I really should have taken a class on this but they are pretty expensive. Anyway, I now know I have to start off at 4.7 grains so this means I will leave the big poiser at 0 and then use the micro to set that to 4.7 and then just add enough powder so the scale touches 0

That is after you set them all at 0 and adjust the base to make it point zero to begin with.
DO NOT MOVE THE SCALE FOR THE DURATION OF THE LOADING SESSION.

That said, exactly what bullet and what powder are you going to use ?
 
Please

What press are you using and what exact primer system??

Post a link to it so we know exactly what you are posting about,
 
Please

What press are you using and what exact primer system??

Post a link to it so we know exactly what you are posting about,

I am using Lee Hand Press, Lyman auto feed primer, using Remington small pistol primers, 9mm 115 gr, and hornady round nose full metal jacket and alliant power pistol. I guess to make sure I am in ball park, I will also use my lyman powder spoon to see if what I measure out fills the cup
 

I have also been trying to determine that in post 8 and 16.

Marathon, it is hard to help or advise if we do not know exactly what tool you are using??

You say a LEE hand press. This one??

Amazon.com : Lee Precision Cast Iron Reloading Hand Press Only (Red) : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41FgqTTwGqL.@@AMEPARAM@@41FgqTTwGqL

A "auto feed primer"?? will not work on a hand press so it is all a mystery???:confused:
 
I have never reloaded before and the instructions that come with the tools are often vague and horrible.

Acquire a good reloading manual. The instructions included with the tools are cliff-notes at best. Read the manual, it will explain why you should do things, not just a to do list. Practice making some rounds. Read the manual again. The instructions make much more sense after you have some experience.

There are many people on this board with many decades of experience who will help you, but you have to put in some of the work yourself. When we ask you follow up questions to your queries, it's to better answer your questions.

Maybe we should start a "phone a reloader" program.
 
Earlier, he stated that he had 20 cases primed.
Specifics don't matter, as he clearly has a means to prime them.
Press shouldn't matter much either as he's demonstrated every operation it performs.

That's good enough to make ammo.

His stated charge range was 4.7 to 6 for his 115 g standard ball
that is within range of alliant data stating 6.7 for a Speer gold dot of the same weight.
Looks to me that all things are in order, and we get pics of targets and reloaded ammo by Sunday, or he owes us all coffee to compensate us for the extraordinary number of odd questions we have sorted through.



Marathonrunner...
as soon as you read this,
1 zero your scale.
2 Weigh out a charge of 4.7g.
3 put it in a primed case.
4 Seat a bullet over that charge.

repeat these steps 7 more times.

Set a crimp on them in accordance with the plunk tests

report to the range.
Collect the cases for examination.
take pics and report back here.


everyone else ....
what coffee do you prefer to drink?

man ... that's going to be a killer in shipping... but that's where we're at.
Rounds or grounds.
We've endured enough.
 
The press absolutely matters when he is talking about some unknown Primer system.

If it is indeed a Lee Hand press then all the replies to a Lyman auto Primer system do not compute.

Pick up another manual. The Lyman is not that great for a How to Load Hand Gun Ammo.

The ABCs of reloading or some other such manual.

Get a video.
 
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