Another Early Nickel Pre-19 Combat Magnum

[max]

If you look at any s&w revolver with a right hand twist ejector rod you will notice only the knurled end and the rod. On the left hand turned guns you have a smooth area as shown in my photo between the knurled end and the rod. Good question, I will never make that mistake again. Earl

Is left hand, right hand determined by age, model, etc ?

 

[Engine49guy]

Been off the forum for a while but the Combat Magnum is a particulate favorite .
While most peculiarities have been ID'd these are the things jumped out right away:

1) The channel cut just behind the ejector rod knurled end ID's it is a left hand threaded ejector rod which didn't appear until the 19-1 revision .

2) The flattened ends on the FS ramp pins and deep impressions around their right side indicate they were poorly removed and over punched back in .

3) Small barrel ampersand and single "Dot" between the S&W and 357 Magnum barrel roll mark. (should be S&W . . 357 Magnum.

4) Diamond target stocks are from the 19-2 era indicated by rounded checkering turn at heel.

5) Shape of the front site blade is too short and shaped wrong for an early CM.

Its a learning process and we all learn by our mistakes.

 

[EarlB]

They had the right hand thread up until 1959 or there abouts when the -1 revision came out. The -1 guns had an L on the rear of the cylinder indicating thread twist change to Left.

Earl

Is left hand, right hand determined by age, model, etc ?

 

[Doc44]

S&W issued an engineering change on December 22, 1959 to change the threads on the extractor rod from right to left-hand. However, it took about 2 1/2-3 years to implement for most models and revolvers stamped -1 (MOD. 19-1, 29-1, etc.) in the yoke cut were shipped in 1962. The -2 change, implementation of the new cylinder stop eliminating the cylinder stop plunger screw followed within a few months so -1 models are scarce and usually sought after by collectors. Some revolvers have an L stamped on the rear surface of the cylinder, but the best way to tell if the extractor rod has a left-hand thread is the relieved area machined behind the knurled tip.

Bill