Another internal lock question

sshakrr

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Hey all. My latest purchase was a 686+ 2.5”. The lock piece along side the hammer is loose. Not impeding the movement just sloppy in its slot. How much movement is acceptable? My previous purchase of a M69 4.25” had to go back as the lock piece blocked the hammer from going into single action mode. It came back solid in its slot. Should I let S&W fix it and ask to be added to their payroll as a quality assurance technician? Thoughts? Thanks. Ron
 
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You should ship it back to S&W for repair otherwise, you risk having your gun lock. It isn’t worth taking a chance with. Call S&W customer service, they will send you a shipping label.
 
You should ship it back to S&W for repair otherwise, you risk having your gun lock. It isn’t worth taking a chance with. Call S&W customer service, they will send you a shipping label.

You're right. I did have the same issue with an M69 4" about a month ago. It blocked single action mode. S&W did fix it and its solid in its place. Thats why I was questioning how much was tolerable. Thanks
 
I have never seen a loose "IL" but if I had one I would send the gun straight to S&W. That is the sole problem that haters of ILs raise, unintentional locking at a bad time - and a loose lock would seem to be ready to do that to you.
 
You're right. I did have the same issue with an M69 4" about a month ago. It blocked single action mode. S&W did fix it and its solid in its place. Thats why I was questioning how much was tolerable. Thanks



Had the same problem with my M69 4" as well. I didn't want to deal with sending the gun back, so just took the lock out. Bit then, the lock is highly redundant with other required storage/transport requirements in my state...
 
Hey all. My latest purchase was a 686+ 2.5”. The lock piece along side the hammer is loose. Not impeding the movement just sloppy in its slot. How much movement is acceptable? My previous purchase of a M69 4.25” had to go back as the lock piece blocked the hammer from going into single action mode. It came back solid in its slot. Should I let S&W fix it and ask to be added to their payroll as a quality assurance technician? Thoughts? Thanks. Ron

The flag beside the hammer rattled pretty good in my 329PD. There will be a little play there. How much all depends on the relationship between the O.D. of the flag axis pin at the rear of the part and the O.D. of the blind hole it pivots in. Mine had a wallered out hole due to normal firing. Gotta love magnum recoil. More prominent in the Scandium frames and the aluminium J's. Recoil beats that flag and the oblong cam around.

Not sure how many rounds you ran before you noticed it was loose. Could have worked itself that way or just been a slight defect in the pin size during casting of the flag part.

This shows the wallered out hole in my 329PD after I put in the Lock Delete parts I manufacture.

jdinaz-albums-s-and-w-lock-delete-slugs-picture16733-img-20170517-113135222-hdr.jpg
 
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Not sure how many rounds you ran before you noticed it was loose. Could have worked itself that way or just been a slight defect in the pin size during casting of the flag part.


I haven’t put a single round through it. It a brand new 686-6+.
It’s on its way back to S&W. Two “ new” guns and both back before ever shooting them. They will be fine. All will be placed on the back burner after an hour at the range:D It seems to be a common thing with everything made nowadays.
 
I only own two SW revolvers with the lock, all the others in my
safe are pre-lock. What I did with the two with locks was to apply a drop of Loctite to the lock. I think it is sleeve retainer #620 the locks are now bonded as if welded. Problem solved.
 
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