Ed Fowler
Member
Very sorry to hear that, I know it is frustrating and hope they get it fixed for you.
Another minor issue with SW22 Victory
- Thread starter NH Old School
- Start date
Which screw? ...the take down or the one that holds the barrel to the top frame? I am picking up mine tomorrow. On you tube someone is using a split washer on the take down screw and said that solved the loosening problem.
S&WIowegan
US Veteran
My NIB Victory 22 got fired once and its extractor went lost, never to be found. I sent it in and got it back in about 3 weeks. The first range trip was a learning experience. The first 60 rounds ran fine, and then the trouble started. The first notable problem was the trigger wouldn't always reset which is something I've never experienced before.
I took it apart at home and the barrel/frame screw was very loose; when I first got the gun new the screw was extremely tight. The bolt and receiver were VERY heavily oiled(looked like motor oil). I hosed all the excess oil out, lubed the internals with very light Remoil and reassembled. I used blue locktite and a torque wrench to 40#. The gun now runs beautifully with every ammo brand I've tried and the screw is still tight.
I suggest cleaning every gun that comes back from factory repairs.
On the subject of rounds not being pushed up far/fast enough in the magazines:
A few years ago, I had the same problem with a Buckmark. The culprit turned out to be a combination of the temperature and the specific ammo I was trying to shoot.
The "Purple Box" Eley Sport (which is actually made by Aguila) had such a sticky lube on it that it would simply prevent the springs in the mags from being able to push them upwards after reloading the mags even once. Cool temperatures (anything below about 70 degrees F) made the problem worse.
The lube on that ammo is something like the stickier cross country ski wax if you've ever encountered that.
I had to clean the mags out with solvent before they were even usable with other ammo because the "Sport" crudded them up so badly. And as was mentioned above, the gunk manifested itself, as would be expected, right where the noses of the ammo rub against the inside of the fronts of the mags.
I like to keep magazines clean of any oil or grease, but I did resort to trying some dry silicone lube in those mags. I also tried installing higher force springs (the springs made for Ruger MK series magazines fit fine, and are stronger). None of that allows the use of that particular ammo.
So I just don't shoot that stuff out of any magazine fed guns. Plus, it's just not that accurate. Three or four good ones, then a flier. Bahh!
Don't confuse the Purple Box Eley Sport (really Aguila) with the actual Eley-made Eley Sport. The Eley-made stuff is dandy.
Anyhow, all of that was just to say that if the ammo you're using has a sticky lube on it, that may be the problem. It certainly was with my Buck Mark, and actually, that stuff jams 10-22s, Ruger MKs, etc., too. It's just amazingly sticky, adhesive stuff. Sort of like bee's wax, but worse!
If you were really into it, you could probably rub the very noses of the bullets on a solvent-soaked cloth or something like that to remove the goo just at the noses, but not back where it matters, and perhaps it'd run OK. But it really wasn't worth the hassle to me.
Here's how a magazine that has had some of that ammo in it looked:
It may have just been a particular batch that had that goo on it, but I'd bought a case of it, so it was disappointing.
People who lived down south, and had high temperatures reported decent luck with it. But here, in cooler temperatures, it was neither accurate or able to be used in any of my mag-fed semis.
A few years ago, I had the same problem with a Buckmark. The culprit turned out to be a combination of the temperature and the specific ammo I was trying to shoot.
The "Purple Box" Eley Sport (which is actually made by Aguila) had such a sticky lube on it that it would simply prevent the springs in the mags from being able to push them upwards after reloading the mags even once. Cool temperatures (anything below about 70 degrees F) made the problem worse.
The lube on that ammo is something like the stickier cross country ski wax if you've ever encountered that.
I had to clean the mags out with solvent before they were even usable with other ammo because the "Sport" crudded them up so badly. And as was mentioned above, the gunk manifested itself, as would be expected, right where the noses of the ammo rub against the inside of the fronts of the mags.
I like to keep magazines clean of any oil or grease, but I did resort to trying some dry silicone lube in those mags. I also tried installing higher force springs (the springs made for Ruger MK series magazines fit fine, and are stronger). None of that allows the use of that particular ammo.
So I just don't shoot that stuff out of any magazine fed guns. Plus, it's just not that accurate. Three or four good ones, then a flier. Bahh!
Don't confuse the Purple Box Eley Sport (really Aguila) with the actual Eley-made Eley Sport. The Eley-made stuff is dandy.
Anyhow, all of that was just to say that if the ammo you're using has a sticky lube on it, that may be the problem. It certainly was with my Buck Mark, and actually, that stuff jams 10-22s, Ruger MKs, etc., too. It's just amazingly sticky, adhesive stuff. Sort of like bee's wax, but worse!
If you were really into it, you could probably rub the very noses of the bullets on a solvent-soaked cloth or something like that to remove the goo just at the noses, but not back where it matters, and perhaps it'd run OK. But it really wasn't worth the hassle to me.
Here's how a magazine that has had some of that ammo in it looked:
It may have just been a particular batch that had that goo on it, but I'd bought a case of it, so it was disappointing.
People who lived down south, and had high temperatures reported decent luck with it. But here, in cooler temperatures, it was neither accurate or able to be used in any of my mag-fed semis.
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Jim1392
US Veteran
When I use CCI AR Tactical in my S & W M & P 22C it does the same thing. It's really a pain to get all the wax out the magazines even though the rounds function very well. I still have a few boxes and I'd rather shoot other brands then deal with the mess.
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SW22 screw comming loose below barrel
Hi: I am new to this thread and this is a very good topic on the loose screw. I have not had the chance to shoot one since I do not have one yet, but I have done a lot of research on this matter. I have talked to two Smith & Wesson cust. ser. personnel and two different answers. One tighten screw then give it a oomph, like a jerk on the allen, the other a little lite lock tite, and the last said there is no fix as of now. Do not let the screw keep you from the purchase. I agree with that. Look at it this way lifetime warranty, and they send you a shipping label. No cost to you as long as its not abuse. So that being said I ordered one good price and should be here in a couple weeks, i'll check it out and then I can give my opinion on it. Seven reasons that I bought it. Name brand, price, stainless, 2 mags, easy tear down, fiber optic sights and warranty.
Hi: I am new to this thread and this is a very good topic on the loose screw. I have not had the chance to shoot one since I do not have one yet, but I have done a lot of research on this matter. I have talked to two Smith & Wesson cust. ser. personnel and two different answers. One tighten screw then give it a oomph, like a jerk on the allen, the other a little lite lock tite, and the last said there is no fix as of now. Do not let the screw keep you from the purchase. I agree with that. Look at it this way lifetime warranty, and they send you a shipping label. No cost to you as long as its not abuse. So that being said I ordered one good price and should be here in a couple weeks, i'll check it out and then I can give my opinion on it. Seven reasons that I bought it. Name brand, price, stainless, 2 mags, easy tear down, fiber optic sights and warranty.
Had my Victory for few months and use loctite blue. I have had problems with the screw coming loose, that's after about 1200 rounds. If yours is still coming loose, I would just upgrade the loctite to red and do not over-torque it. It would be nice to solve the problem with a lock washer, but not really designed that way.
My problem is the Victory Grips. They are horrible when the humidity goes up. I have average hands and I'm sliding off (down) the grips. No one is making custom or target grips yet, not even Hogue or Nill. Anyone have any ideas on a grip maker, I'm been using cloth tape to bulk up the grips, especially at the butt. Its kinda dangerous to shoot bullseye with it for fear of the shooting hand coming off the grip!
My problem is the Victory Grips. They are horrible when the humidity goes up. I have average hands and I'm sliding off (down) the grips. No one is making custom or target grips yet, not even Hogue or Nill. Anyone have any ideas on a grip maker, I'm been using cloth tape to bulk up the grips, especially at the butt. Its kinda dangerous to shoot bullseye with it for fear of the shooting hand coming off the grip!
Magload
US Veteran
I am in search of grips also. May just buy the wood and make my own. I have gun stocks before and done hand checkering. I think when I buy the KDS or Volquaterson grips for my Mark III I may try to copy them to fit the Victory.
10P8TRIOT
Member
My takedown screw started coming loose at 1200 rounds also. I solved this by applying Vibra-Tite VC-3 to the screw every 4th or 5th time I cleaned the pistol. Haven't had a problem with the screw since and I'm at over 2600 rounds through the Victory.
I'm using a Hogue Handall Full Size Grip Sleeve (got on Amazon for $7) until someone starts selling a dedicated target grip for the Victory. The word is that Volquartsen should have one available for the Victory soon.
This is the prototype Victory target grip Volquartsen developed for SHOT 2016. Looks sweet!
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Magload
US Veteran
Oh yes that is going on my gun for sure. It will be VQ on both ends then the center doesn't need a thing.
Hi All. Volquartsen has the Target Grips on their site now for pre-order at $150. They anticipate shipping to begin on 7/15 and they are offering them in several different colors. Go to https://www.volquartsen.com/products/1223-laminated-wood-grips-for-the-sw22 to check them out. I definitely want better grips on my SW22 but I am undecided about these grips. I have lots of VQ products and they are top quality but these look like they might be a little large for my hands. I will be looking for feedback from anyone that gets them to see how they like them. 
for pre-order at $150. They anticipate shipping to begin on 7/15 and they are offering them in several different colors. Go to https://www.volquartsen.com/products/1223-laminated-wood-grips-for-the-sw22 to check them out. I definitely want better grips on my SW22 but I am undecided about these grips. I have lots of VQ products and they are top quality but these look like they might be a little large for my hands. I will be looking for feedback from anyone that gets them to see how they like them. smithfan4152
Member
Take Down Screw
The Take down screw on the Victory is a 12-28 x 3/8 long Low Head SHCS.
What this means is it has to use a smaller wrench, 2 sizes smaller than your typical 12-28 shcs. Which uses a 5/32. You would get an ample amount of torque on the screw, plus it would not be so hard to break free, Plus the Socket Hex would have less chance of Stripping, for so much force being applied to a smaller hex.
Low head screws were designed to work in area's where height was an issue, they really are not the best to use when you really need to torque something down, as they are more difficult to break loose. The screw should not wear out from being tightened down. I will either buy a standard 12-28 SHCS, with the 5/32 hex, or I will modify the existing hex to 5/32 should it give me trouble. IF you buy a small piece of pipe, 1/8 NPT x 4-5 inches long, it should give you enough leverage for easily breaking the screw loose.
The Take down screw on the Victory is a 12-28 x 3/8 long Low Head SHCS.
What this means is it has to use a smaller wrench, 2 sizes smaller than your typical 12-28 shcs. Which uses a 5/32. You would get an ample amount of torque on the screw, plus it would not be so hard to break free, Plus the Socket Hex would have less chance of Stripping, for so much force being applied to a smaller hex.
Low head screws were designed to work in area's where height was an issue, they really are not the best to use when you really need to torque something down, as they are more difficult to break loose. The screw should not wear out from being tightened down. I will either buy a standard 12-28 SHCS, with the 5/32 hex, or I will modify the existing hex to 5/32 should it give me trouble. IF you buy a small piece of pipe, 1/8 NPT x 4-5 inches long, it should give you enough leverage for easily breaking the screw loose.
OldGoat
Member
Victory purchase
I'm too old to wait for Victory problems to be solved...will just stick with my S&W Models 17 and 18 and Rugers I and Ii. Life is too short to wait for screw bugs to be resolved!!! Regards, Ed
I'm too old to wait for Victory problems to be solved...will just stick with my S&W Models 17 and 18 and Rugers I and Ii. Life is too short to wait for screw bugs to be resolved!!! Regards, Ed
Targets Guy
US Veteran
So far very happy with the purchase. Feels great, shoots great. Tightening the screw every now and then is easy peasy. Only bad thing is the wife shot it and now wants one. But then is that really a bad thing?
I would try torqueing this screw down to around 40Inch lbs or use a No. 61 rubber O-ring on it instead. I have heard really good results with both suggestions. No I have not tried it myself as I don't own one of these Victorys as yet.
gman51
Member
I planned on taking my SW22 Victory to my LGS to sell for me, but the car wouldn't start so I still have it. It will make it to the LGS soon.
This gun isn't near as dependable as my Ruger MKII that is over 30 years old. Yes the take down is more time consuming but then again I find that I seldom have to do more than a spray down and wiped clean.
This gun isn't near as dependable as my Ruger MKII that is over 30 years old. Yes the take down is more time consuming but then again I find that I seldom have to do more than a spray down and wiped clean.
shotguntom
Member
Exactly what I did with mine. No issue with screw coming loose at all.
Now a non issue. Cost 5 cents.
