Another Sport Accuracy/Free Float/Trigger Thread

[otisrush]

I've been searching and reading various threads around here and to do what I'm looking to do is causing me to piece together bits and pieces of various threads and I'm not getting a good action plan in my head.

I have a stock Sport with a Nikon P-223 3-9x installed. My top level goal is to take it to the next level of accuracy. I just started reloading and I'm interested in doing a moderate-budget upgrade to make it a little more accurate. It's only a range gun. I want to see what I can do it with by experimenting with different loads and seeing what I can get to from the bench.

I don't have a firm budget - but I'm thinking of $100-200 to invest. (i.e. I don't want to go crazy).

Question 1: Should I invest in a trigger or a free float?

Question 2: If the answer is free float I'd be interested in recommendations based on the following:
* I will *not* be tacti-cooling this rifle. Frankly, I basically *don't like* their look when they're all decked out. I might go as far as saying I can't imagine ever mounting anything on a handguard.
* I don't want to mess with changing the gas block, so I'd shave off the current one. That probably doesn't make a difference for a handguard - but it's FYI.
* I'd like to use the standard barrel nut. I don't want to mess with getting tools to have to remove the stock nut, etc.
* I was leaning toward some sort of quad rail because I had the impression that provided the most options out there - but recent reading here leads me to believe there may be other options that are popular that are more comfortable and not as heavy. (Although I'll be doing a lot from the bench I'll also use it in "play" mode and doing some offhand shooting occasionally. I want the ability to do that sometimes.)

Any obvious recommendations come to mind?

Thanks!

OR

 

[oneeek020]

For a Standard barrel nut look at http://www.samson-mfg.com/category/EVOLUTION.html

But for immediate games and accuracy if you have good trigger control you want to look at a http://geissele.com/super-semi-automatic-enhanced-ssa-e-trigger.html

 

[WardenRoss]

I installed the Daniel Defense Omega free-float quad rail on my Sporty.

Only takes five minutes (if you are slow)....

 

[JaPes]

Hello. If I haven't said it before, welcome to the sub forum.

My top level goal is to take it to the next level of accuracy. ...I'm interested in doing a moderate-budget upgrade to make it a little more accurate.

Ah. You're going to start to chase the white rabbit down the rabbit hole. Excellent! Remember, you're not making your rifle more accurate. You're enhancing it's potential for both accuracy and precision. The biggest factor that contributes to accuracy and precision is the marksmanship skill level of firearms enthusiast pulling the trigger.

I just started reloading...

It's only a range gun. I want to see what I can do it with by experimenting with different loads and seeing what I can get to from the bench.

Another kudos on reloading and diving deeper into the rabbit hole!

To really get the most consistent and accurate ammunition, you have to be obsessive about every detail of the ammunition. The goal is consistency in everything. Separate the different head stamps. If possible, separate out into how many times the brass has been fired. Trim the brass, triple checking the brass OAL. Weigh the brass to make sure you load brass that weighs the same. Weigh the projectiles to choose ones that weigh exactly the same. Use the same primers. Triple check the powder charge weight. Assemble a round of ammunition. Check for OAL. Check for runout. Then you want to get a nice bench rest.

I don't have a firm budget - but I'm thinking of $100-200 to invest. (i.e. I don't want to go crazy).

We all say that when we start down this road.

Question 1: Should I invest in a trigger or a free float?

It is my opinion that of the two, a good 2-stage trigger will give you the biggest increase in potential for precision and accuracy.

In keeping with your budget constraints, I highly recommend a Rock River Arms 2-Stage Varmint Trigger. They can be found for under $100. I believe I paid $80 for mine. My current marksmanship level does not exceed the RRA 2-Stage Varmint triggers potential for accuracy and precision.

Question 2: If the answer is free float I'd be interested in recommendations based on the following:

* no tacti-cool

* I'd shave off the current one (gas block)

* Use the standard barrel nut.

* other options that are popular that are more comfortable and not as heavy. ...doing some offhand shooting occasionally.

Any obvious recommendations come to mind?

My friend, you are the prime candidate for a Troy Industries SDMR Rail. It affixes to the AR using the stock barrel nut. I'd go for a 15" to get the added bonus of extending the iron sight radius, increasing the potential for precision and accuracy during iron sight only practice.

The Troy SDMR is a nice fusion of a key-mod system with the convenience of a quad rail toward the muzzle end. From what you've posted, you'll more than likely end up searching for a good bi-pod. The quad rail at just the muzzle end provides a convenient, built into the rail, solid bi-pod mounting location.

http://youtu.be/DDRSevGZocE

Installation should be similar to the Troy Alpha Rail (the one I have).

Troy TRX Alpha Rail Install on a BUDGET!! - YouTube

 

[cyphertext]

You will benefit the most from the trigger over free floating. But eventually, you will end up with both.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

As far as triggers... I have a Wison Combat TTU on my rifle. Single stage 4lbs. That's as light as I think is reasonable on a single stage and still consider service/battle worthy. IMO, it is the best single stage on the market at any price.

I agree with Cypher. An excellent trigger has the potential to improve your performance more than a handguard by a wide margin.

 

[otisrush]

Thanks a bunch all. Your info and perspectives are extremely helpful.

I've definitely internalized that usually the limiting factor in accuracy and/or precision is the human, not the equipment. That being said, I also know that better equipment will perform better - or at least impact performance.

I'm really excited at the prospect of playing with the multitude of variables (powders, charges, bullets, etc.) to see what I can get the me/Sport combo to deliver. And what's even more cool is the task of figuring out which load is the best involves......shooting! "Well - there's only one way to see how these 4 different loads will perform: I have to go shoot them." Hmmmm......hurt me with that problem.

Thanks again for all the info as well as the time spent typing it up.

OR

 

[JaPes]

I'm really excited at the prospect of playing with the multitude of variables (powders, charges, bullets, etc.) to see what I can get the me/Sport combo to deliver.

The only advice I have...

• Stick to the published loads from reputable sources.
• Reloading takes the utmost care and attention.
• If you have alot going on that can distract you, walk away from the loading bench.
• Remember to inspect the spent cases. Their condition is a diagnostic tool.

Because we have so many new sub-forum members who just bought their first AR-15....

Always remember you are shooting on a one-way range. If you have any malfunction, you have the luxury of time to inspect your firearm. If anything does not feel like it should, stop. Inspect the spent brass case. Hinge open your rifle, pull the BCG, & give everything a good look. Even if you're taking a carbine course, you're on a one way range. Unless you find yourself on a two-way range, there is no reason to employ the tap, rack, bang to clear a malfunction.

Here's a classic example of what not to do that has been shared and discussed on this forum before. Firearms enthusiast is on a one way range, experiences a malfunction, and does not stop to take the time to inspect his rifle.

http://youtu.be/qoZnCxqa4QA

For those who have a model with a forward assist, a forward assist requires thumb pressure. It is not to be hammered on. If a round fails to chamber, it is better to eject the round that failed to chamber than force it into the chamber.

 

[red dragon]

Great advice JePes. I got a squib a while back at the range shooting 9mm tula. I think they forgot the powder, but i guess the primer was enough to push the bullet into the barrel. It was basically a very light poof, the case failed to eject and no trigger reset. I checked the case as i ejected it, no bullet and the target was still clean. The bullet wasn't visible until I broke the gun down. If I hadn't taken the time to address my malfunction, I'd looked like the guy on that video. Still love me some tula ammo though, so do my m&ps.

 

[otisrush]

Great post John. Thanks for the info and reminders.

You're kind of hitting on one of the reasons a lack of FA on the Sport was such a non-issue for me: Since I knew I'd only be at a range with it, (I love the "one way range" term, BTW), I knew my response to something not chambering would NEVER be "just push on the FA". I figure if something doesn't chamber there is something wrong: Either with the ammo or with the gun. My dad taught me to love GUNS as much as to love SHOOTING. I love and am fascinated by the engineering, the craftsmanship, etc. (This, actually, is one of the things that made me hesitant to get into an AR. They're cool but don't have the classic craftsmanship of a Browning O/U or something like that. Don't get me wrong - the Sport is a blast - but it's not the same as what I grew up with many years ago.) So not being able to "slam something home" if something was askew was not a concern at all.

Thanks again.

OR

 

[sgtsandman]

My aircraft mechanic OCD is cringing on the second video for several reasons. The end result works and I'm sure it's perfectly fine. It's just after 27 years of getting the concepts of "proper tools for the job" and personal protective equipment usage pounded into my head, videos like that just make me cringe.

 

[JaPes]

Great advice JePes. I got a squib a while back at the range shooting 9mm tula. I think they forgot the powder, but i guess the primer was enough to push the bullet into the barrel. It was basically a very light poof, the case failed to eject and no trigger reset. I checked the case as i ejected it, no bullet and the target was still clean. The bullet wasn't visible until I broke the gun down. If I hadn't taken the time to address my malfunction, I'd looked like the guy on that video. Still love me some tula ammo though, so do my m&ps.

I had a squib. I was firing my 10/22. One round felt wrong. Bolt didn't fully cycle. Cleared the rifle, set a flashlight down on the bench, put the muzzle to the light. I couldn't see any light from the ejection port/breech.

As for reloading, I had to learn the "pay attention to everything" the hard way.

I still have a knee jerk aversion to loading .357 Mag, even to the minimum charge spec.