Anybody get a S&w trigger job done

[Blueinterceptor]

I sent my new to me model 13 to S&W for a wellness check and a sear set issue. I was thinking about getting a trigger job done.
What are the benefits, how much lighter would the trigger be
How much smoother?
Any info would be appreciated

 

[Beachcomber]

I don't think the Pro Center would make your trigger pull any lighter than factory specs... but they will make it smoother. I had a Model 64 sent in to have a hammer changed and "just smoothed". When I got the Model 64 back the trigger pull was extremely smooth and consistent all the way through the pull. I couldn't have asked for better.

 

[326MOD10]

I had a Model 19 and a Model 64 sent back for a Combat Action Package, which includes some trigger work.

VERY SMOOTH. Makes it seem lighter but it is just that smooth when you cycle the action.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Most of my S&W revolvers do not need a trigger job, and never did. Of course, there are exceptions, and probably polishing the rebound slide won't hurt, but I am very suspicious of anything beyond a relube with RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube, and not much of that.

It is a lot easier to make an S&W revolver worse with a trigger job than to make it better. Of course, if all you (or your gunsmith) **** up with a trigger job is the hammer or trigger or both, you can relace them (for a price). Don't forget to save the original springs - you may want to re-install them. Also, keep the original DA sear from the original hammer. It may save you a lot of money when you fix the trigger job.

 

[Bakebfr480]

No......I do it myself!

 

[Blueinterceptor]

I’ve had around 10 s&w revolvers. I’ve never had or considered a TJ before. I’ve always felt they smoothed out with use over time.
I was thinking about it just because I sent a model 13 in for a check up. I’ll keep her the way she is and shoot her some to break her in properly.

Thanks all

 

[Protocall_Design]

Most people who don't shoot competition have no idea how good a trigger you can get on a S&W revolver. I have been shooting matches for almost 40 years now, (since 1979) with only S&W revos. It is much easier to shoot a good score with a light AND smooth trigger pull. Light has to do with how the springs are set up, smooth has to do with how all the moving parts interact with each other.

Those who are fine with a factory trigger should not poo-poo those who want a better trigger. I do all my own work, so I know first hand what I'm talking about. Most of my match guns are in the 6 to 6.5 pound DA pull weight. Two of them are 5 pound DA pull weight. It is pretty easy to get a reliable 8 lb. pull that will set off all primers. Factory DA is usually in the 12 to 14 lb. range.

Tuned triggers are only for target range or competitions. Duty and carry guns should remain factory stock. If you ever need to use that gun, you will not notice what weight the trigger pull is.

 

[focus2]

Had an action package done by S&W. They did a great job on my new 686+. Next SW I get new or used I would have it done again......

 

[Groo01]

Groo here
Had a Master Action Job done to my M-22 when it went in for a new sight.
Next time went local.

 

[rct269]

I've been doing my own for the better part of 50 years----polished any/everything that moved---and had been known to snip a coil or two from the rebound slide spring/slim a mainspring--made sure everything was square and fit just so-----was completely satisfied---received many compliments---and thought I was pretty hot stuff.

Then, wanting to fix up a beater 1920's M&P my father-law bought new, and carried in the hip pocket of his overalls for 50-60 years for a point and shoot practice gun, and being too lazy to do it for real this time around; I stuffed a Miculek Spring Kit (Maybe $20.) in it----period. (Nothing's polished, nothing's checked, just stuffed it in. It's worth noting I followed the instructions religiously after the gun was locked up tight after I finished simply swapping the springs the first time around---as in: "When all else fails, please read the instructions.").

WOW!!!

It may well be I don't know what a really first class action job done by a really first class professional feels like, but I'm hard pressed to imagine anything better than this beater with that spring kit in it.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[CA Escapee]

Back in November of last year I sent my 696 to S&W because the action would bind up, mostly on one charge hole. They changed the sear and one other part; I forget now which part that was. While it was back at S&W I shot a friend's 686 that he had a Master Action Package (MAP) done on years ago.

I called S&W back and had them do the MAP on mine. I just got it back earlier this month and the double action is smooth from start 'til click. I haven't been able to measure the trigger pull, but I have a Ruger SP101 DAO with an 8lb, 1oz D/A (average) pull and the 696 feels slightly lighter and even smoother. The single action pull is light and crisp.

The down side of all this was it took 4.5 months to get the gun back. I'd call and the person I spoke with stated that it should have been done by now, and that they were, "sending a message to the Performance Center to find out what was going on." (They didn't call back.) I'd call a week later and get the same response; they didn't know why it was taking so long.

I'd have to say the MAP is well worth the price and if you get it done keep after them if it takes more than 5 weeks.

Bill

 

[oddshooter]

I complained about the factory DA trigger at 13lbs.
I sent my 686 Pro in for a trigger job from the Performance Center. They asked what I wanted. I said 3 and 8.

It came back in 10 days with a perfect 3 and 8. No charge.

 

[Bubba2014]

To save time and money, you can back out the strain screw a little and get a better trigger pull. However, if you do this, test fire the gun to make sure it fires every time you pull the trigger. That is an old cop trick.

 

[Protocall_Design]

If you just back out the strain screw, it will continue to unwind as you shoot it, until you're getting misfires. You can hold it in place with blue loctite. Not for a duty gun, though. Target range only.

 

[Kurusu]

To save time and money, you can back out the strain screw a little and get a better trigger pull. However, if you do this, test fire the gun to make sure it fires every time you pull the trigger. That is an old cop trick.

That is not a solution. The strain screw is to be kept tight.

 

[Adk.IBO]

I looked for a 649-3 for a while and grabbed one off Gunbroker. I paid to much and the condition was not as described. Then the cylinder release broke. Scratches and rust under the grips, it was pretty rough. I sent it to S&W for an estimate, said yes to a polish, the repair, straightening of the clocked barrel, and added in the trigger job. I am really glad I did, so much so I installed a new front sight and the new Crimson Trace green laser. It's a fantastic gun now! Super pleased with S&W's gunsmithing.