I was doing some maintenance on a few guns and you can't really tear down a Ruger LCR. You just pull up the side pin and place a few drops and work the action. Since I had the grip off anyway I just held it upside down and gave it a few shots of aerosol Eezox, dry fired a bunch and wiped it off, it felt great. I used to do the same to my two pair of handcuffs with ballistol but couldn't take the lingering smell. Eezox is new to my arsenal, any downsides? I have a 442Pro that I should get to pick up this week and going to try and do the 1000 dry fire routine. Prior and during I was going to give it a liberal shot. I'm more than comfortable with full teardown and side plate removal but I've been pretty impressed with this stuff so far on the stuff I've tried it on.
Anybody lazy and just flood the action with Eezox (wheel guns)?
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Bought and used up a quart of Eezox about 8 years ago. Very good lube but there are so many now, its like playing the lottery.
ACORN
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A word of caution….. I have a case hardened Mod 40 that I used Eezox on the exterior. I didn't know there was a clear applied over the CH and the clear started to flake off. I believe the Eezox softened the clear.
rjm6120
Member
I have been using Eezox for about 5 years now, as both a lube and a protectant. I apply it after my cleaning is done with Hoppe's #9. I probably use a bit more than is necessary, but I noticed no ill effects to finishes, etc. of my guns.
I remember old timers doing the same with toothpaste or jewelers rouge and then flushing the inside out with diesel fuel.they then used an air hose to blow out what didn't rinse out.
With the price of diesel, maybe not......
Randy
With the price of diesel, maybe not......
Randy
Toothpaste? What kind of toothpaste doubles as a gun cleaner?
I've been using Eezox for about 10 years now with no ill effects. I use it inside my revolvers and as a lubricant on my Ruger Mark IV and Black Mamba. I haven't had a problem on the BM since I started using it.
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I love Eezox and use it in place of Hoppes solvent. It's essentially wax in an evaporitive petrol base. As a protectant, it should go on rather thin, much less than you would with a regular gun-oil, or Ballistol. That's my favorite as a protectant for reasons of it's safety. Neither one smells particulary good, but the pair of them are my go-to 99% of the time.
Scharfschuetzer
Member
That's probably for smoothing the action. Some toothpastes contain a very mild abrasive (diatom fossil deposits) and dry firing with such a toothpaste on the friction surfaces will polish those areas of a DA revolver. It was not unknown back in the revolver days of police work.
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toothpaste
This is what I was referring to. Many seemed to like using Crest. My dad seemed to prefer valve grinding compound.
Randy
This is what I was referring to. Many seemed to like using Crest. My dad seemed to prefer valve grinding compound.
Randy
In years past I used toothpaste to clean old tarnished inline spinner blades. The toothpaste had just enough abrasive to polish off the tarnish.
absolutely indispensable in a rimfire, especially the trigger assembly. I have 7? Ruger mark pistols I compete with. The question mark has to do with extra uppers, which are the serialized part on these Ruger pistols.
I need to find a new supplier, mine died of Covid this winter.
Never tried it but have heard of using toothpaste as grime/oxidation, etc. remover on car headlight covers so could possibly work???
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Yes, toothpaste is a mild abrasive however it's also a water based product. Call me old fashioned but I don't use water based products on firearms, especially inside. Some also use Simple Green as a solvent and report good results. I'll stick to the traditional stuff (non water based).
I would think that if you used clean dry air from a compressor to blow off the excess lube then you would be fine. I'd also clean off the firearm after dryfiring it and make sure all the grit and grime is gone - which could adhere to the massive amount sprayed on. After cleaning, only a light sparing amount of lube should be used, imho.
I would think that if you used clean dry air from a compressor to blow off the excess lube then you would be fine. I'd also clean off the firearm after dryfiring it and make sure all the grit and grime is gone - which could adhere to the massive amount sprayed on. After cleaning, only a light sparing amount of lube should be used, imho.
In the early days Browning recommended diesel fuel as a cleaner/lubricant for their firearms.
Diesel fuel is $6 a gallon. Hoppes is $4.95 for 6 ounces. Guess which one I'm using.
Modified
Member
Back when I was afraid to take the sideplate off of my guns I would just flood them with Breakfree CLP, work the action, use the air compressor to blow out the innards, and repeat until it came out clear. Very lazy, but worked pretty good.
If its something I don't Ren wax Eezox is my 1st choice.
