Anybody still use a Lewis Lead Remover?
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Snapping Twig
Member
I don't use mine anymore either.
A few strands of copper Chore Boy wrapped around a bore brush works better for me.
A few strands of copper Chore Boy wrapped around a bore brush works better for me.
kbm6893
Member
I do. Nothing works better. Chore boy is a poor boys substitute and maybe one I would use if I Didn't own a Lewis. But why bother when I have the original?
There's nothing wrong with the Lewis lead remover, except:
1. $31 for the kit
2. $26 for caliber conversion kits
3. $0.35 each for the brass patches, that are also caliber specific.
A bag of Chore Boy copper cleaning pads costs about $2, and I have lots of old bronze cleaning brushes to hold a few strands of a copper cleaning pad.
Given that I shoot cast bullets in 5 different bore diameters, the Lewis approach is a little cost prohibitive.
1. $31 for the kit
2. $26 for caliber conversion kits
3. $0.35 each for the brass patches, that are also caliber specific.
A bag of Chore Boy copper cleaning pads costs about $2, and I have lots of old bronze cleaning brushes to hold a few strands of a copper cleaning pad.
Given that I shoot cast bullets in 5 different bore diameters, the Lewis approach is a little cost prohibitive.
Ordered one from Brownell's along with a range rod yesterday. May have shaken up my Mod. 10-5 last trip to the range.
Don't really mind spending a few bucks for a one time purchase.
Don't really mind spending a few bucks for a one time purchase.
Mickey D
Member
I only use mine on the forcing cone when shooting lead. CB down the barrel.
It's a great product to have when you need it.
Bkreutz
US Veteran
I still have one, but I haven't owned a .44 for a while. It sits in the "unused tool" section of the shop. (I've collected a lot of those over the years, I'm a tool junkie. I have a car door pin removal tool that I bought off the Snap On truck in 1969 and have never used it. Still in the original box. But you never know, I might need it someday. 
)
)
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
Years before the Lewis Lead Remover was introduced I was shown how to use 0000 steel wool (the finest grade). Used dry it will scrub off most surface deposits (powder residue, leading, even light surface rust) without scratching or damaging bluing, nickel plating, or stainless steel. A little bit wound around an old worn bore brush will make short work of just about anything stuck in the bore or chamber(s). Same approach with the addition of a little solvent will remove those stubborn crusty rings of crud in revolver cylinders quickly and easily.
Last time I purchased 0000 steel wool it came in a package with 6 or 8 large pads for a couple of bucks. That was probably 20 years ago and I'm still using that same package.
Anything that a good bronze bore brush or bristle brush won't seem to remove gets the 0000 treatment. I save my worn bore brushes in my gun cleaning box to use this way.
Last time I purchased 0000 steel wool it came in a package with 6 or 8 large pads for a couple of bucks. That was probably 20 years ago and I'm still using that same package.
Anything that a good bronze bore brush or bristle brush won't seem to remove gets the 0000 treatment. I save my worn bore brushes in my gun cleaning box to use this way.
Vulcan Bob
Member
While I was shooting commercial cast bullets it was a often used tool. Now that I'm shooting my own home cast bullets not so much but it's good to know it's there. The forcing cone and cylinder cleaning options are it's best feature.
1morethan8
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
"...is there a better alternative out there these days."
I stopped using cast or non-jacketed bullets!
I stopped using cast or non-jacketed bullets!
venomballistics
Member
I switched to Hi Tek and Powder coating on my cast lead.
I have no use for any lead removal method now.
In fact, I have bore brushes still in the packaging from nearly a year ago.
I have no use for any lead removal method now.
In fact, I have bore brushes still in the packaging from nearly a year ago.
My thinking also.....
Except that I've got a lot of conventionally lubed cast bullets stored up. But from now on it's either jacketed or coated.
PS A few years ago this question would have been answered by many yes votes. Not so much any more.
Except that I've got a lot of conventionally lubed cast bullets stored up. But from now on it's either jacketed or coated.
PS A few years ago this question would have been answered by many yes votes. Not so much any more.
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venomballistics
Member
I noodled with that issue.
Powder coating and Hi Tek each have a few advantages over eachother.
One of the PC advantages is that it has better adhesion.
so, If you are so inclined, you may boil off the traditional lube in a pot of water then follow up with the piglet method of PC application.
Figured I'd put that one out there in case you just were not aware of it, and deem the benefits great enough to go through the trouble.
Aticus
Member
Yeah I still use mine. I won't be without it. However, what Lobo mentioned is going to get a try come spring.
I'm too cheap to shoot indoors and it's too cold for me at present.
I'm too cheap to shoot indoors and it's too cold for me at present.
I have one, with patch tips for 32, 38, 40 and 45. I like it a lot. Gets a lot of use when I shoot cast. My loads lead very little but it's a lot easier to get it off with one of these than anything else. My only complain is they don't make one for rifles, and I shoot a lot of cast in my 30 caliber rifles.
Bought one in .38 caliber in the early 1970's and still use it. Just have to periodically re-supply the brass patches. Especially good for keeping the forcing cone clean. Regular use in k frame 357 Magnums goes a long way to minimize the chance of cracked forcing cones.
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I still use it monthly after 36 years and it is still the best at Lead removal - IMHO. Yea, the price has gone up but other than the Brass replacement screens it's a one time purchase - assuming you don't loose it.
My Dad once bought the Brass Screen material in a Bulk Roll and cut his own patches. I suppose one could still do that if they wanted to be bothered cutting out round shapes. I still have some of the bulk stuff left but usually just grab a pre-cut brass patch for the LLR. One day when I am really bored I'll cut the roll up.
My Dad once bought the Brass Screen material in a Bulk Roll and cut his own patches. I suppose one could still do that if they wanted to be bothered cutting out round shapes. I still have some of the bulk stuff left but usually just grab a pre-cut brass patch for the LLR. One day when I am really bored I'll cut the roll up.
Mickey D
Member
I just shoot a jacketed bullet wrapped in Chore Boy. 
I use mine for several calibers when needed, but I now use the coated Missouri Bullet Hi-Tek bullets quite a bit, and also use gas checked lead bullets too.
I recently loaded some .45 caliber 200 grain Hi-Tek swc bullets in .45 Auto Rim cases with 7.5 grains of Unique for my 625-3, and they shot very well with no leading whatsoever. Should be a good bowling pin load. Since the Hi-Tek bullets do not have lube on them, they shoot fairly clean too.
I recently loaded some .45 caliber 200 grain Hi-Tek swc bullets in .45 Auto Rim cases with 7.5 grains of Unique for my 625-3, and they shot very well with no leading whatsoever. Should be a good bowling pin load. Since the Hi-Tek bullets do not have lube on them, they shoot fairly clean too.
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I still have mine. Bought it for .38 30 years ago and just added the .45 adapter a few months ago. I rarely need it for the .38 but the .45 leads pretty badly, probably caused by undersized chamber throats. I'll be getting that corrected soon.
Problem with mine...
Years ago I bought a cheap imitation made by Hoppe's. I used it for .45 and .44, and I never had a problem with it. I recently bought a model 64-6 off Gunbroker for a decent price, and I don't know if it's the ECM barrel or what, but this revolver has some of the worst barrel leading I've ever seen. I wanted to buy a new .357/.38 caliber rubber jag from Hoppe's, but these don't seem to be made anymore. So I splurged and got a Lewis Lead Remover kit since it wasn't that much more expensive than just the jag alone.
The problem is that the jag just punches through the screen every single time. It's the same for the barrel or the chambers; the jag just punches through the screen without even coming close to pulling it through the bore. I've followed the directions, and I've tried every possible way of forming the screen, setting up the jag, and holding my tongue just right; nothing seems to work. I notice on the old Hoppe's jags, the shoulders are rounded while the new Lewis jag has a sharp shoulder. Am I missing something?
Years ago I bought a cheap imitation made by Hoppe's. I used it for .45 and .44, and I never had a problem with it. I recently bought a model 64-6 off Gunbroker for a decent price, and I don't know if it's the ECM barrel or what, but this revolver has some of the worst barrel leading I've ever seen. I wanted to buy a new .357/.38 caliber rubber jag from Hoppe's, but these don't seem to be made anymore. So I splurged and got a Lewis Lead Remover kit since it wasn't that much more expensive than just the jag alone.
The problem is that the jag just punches through the screen every single time. It's the same for the barrel or the chambers; the jag just punches through the screen without even coming close to pulling it through the bore. I've followed the directions, and I've tried every possible way of forming the screen, setting up the jag, and holding my tongue just right; nothing seems to work. I notice on the old Hoppe's jags, the shoulders are rounded while the new Lewis jag has a sharp shoulder. Am I missing something?
Snapping Twig
Member
Yes, you're missing out on wrapping copper Chore Boy around a bronze cleaning brush and doing the job quicker and more thoroughly.
I've had a Lewis tool since the 80's and I chucked it for the Chore Boy.
I've had a Lewis tool since the 80's and I chucked it for the Chore Boy.
Well, it was an oddball back then, but I had a guy call my shop years ago and asked if I could refinish a K frame for him...he said it just needed blued. It did, seems his ex wife decided to get rid of it and she threw it in a burn barrel, loaded...the gun definitely needed the blue job alright, along with a set of new grips...but in the bore was a melted bullet that completely soldered itself to the rifling. Real good. Up to this point I never had a Lewis, but one of my buddies did and it took that lead right out. I tried the chore boy and a host of other remedies that for this one anyways did not work. That was right before Brownell's bought the Lewis and I don't use mine much, but I still do.
I cant believe the consumate moron hasn't posted on here "how good mercury cleans lead out of a barrel"....it's so easy to get...just run on down to the mercury store and get a jug!!!! So does nitro glycerine and fairy dust, you probably got a better chance of getting either one of them!!
I cant believe the consumate moron hasn't posted on here "how good mercury cleans lead out of a barrel"....it's so easy to get...just run on down to the mercury store and get a jug!!!! So does nitro glycerine and fairy dust, you probably got a better chance of getting either one of them!!
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Grayfox
US Veteran
Years ago I bought the Hoppe's set which was considerably cheaper. I have kits in .32,.38. .44 & .45. I still use them all the time. I shoot lots of lead! 
Don't know if its true, but I did hear some years back that Hoppe's had to quit making their version because Lewis sued.
The Lewis patches work just fine with my Hoppe's tools and they're cheap enough. I see no reason to change.
Don't know if its true, but I did hear some years back that Hoppe's had to quit making their version because Lewis sued.
The Lewis patches work just fine with my Hoppe's tools and they're cheap enough. I see no reason to change.
cmort666
Member
I do, although I haven't used it in a long time.
When I bought my last one, it was branded either "Hoppes" or "Outers".
Seems like a lot of people either use factory FMJs or plated or jacketed bullets in handloads.
I can't afford factory ammunition or fmj bullets, and REALLY dislike plated bullets. The plated bullets I got from National Bullet left copper fouling that was FAR more stubborn than any leading I've ever seen.
I've had the Lewis around for a long time, didn't find it all that effective for the trouble involved. My leading with wheelweight metal cast bullets wasn't all that bad until a few years back; don't know if the metal composition changed or what, but it got very bothersome. Tried the Choreboy on a brush, and it helped noticeably. One day I used some of the Slip 2000 Carbon Killer as well, and darned if the combination didn't do a great job on leading. For now it's a good way to go.
I've been casting for a long time, but between finding decent, affordable lead and the sheer work involved, I don't do much of it any more Plus I have quite a few cast bullets ready to load--enough for years, in fact. And plated bullets work well enough for for me for most purposes without any leading issues.
Now if I could just find a few jugs of Unique powder...
I've been casting for a long time, but between finding decent, affordable lead and the sheer work involved, I don't do much of it any more Plus I have quite a few cast bullets ready to load--enough for years, in fact. And plated bullets work well enough for for me for most purposes without any leading issues.
Now if I could just find a few jugs of Unique powder...
This belongs in the reloading section,
but the LLR is still available. A Copper Chore BOY on an old bronze brush will work as well and cost a lot less. Be sure it is this brand copper, use a magnet as some are just colored.
Chore Boy - Ultimate Scrubbers, Pure Copper
but the LLR is still available. A Copper Chore BOY on an old bronze brush will work as well and cost a lot less. Be sure it is this brand copper, use a magnet as some are just colored.
Chore Boy - Ultimate Scrubbers, Pure Copper
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