Apex Sear for Shield

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sgmann69

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I just finished installing an Apex sear in my Shield .40 with no issues. It literally took me like 10 minutes from start to finish. I didn't purchase the whole trigger kit, because I didn't want to deal with removing the rear sight. I was really only interested in lowering the trigger pull.
I now have a nice 4.5 pound trigger pull. If you leave the stock springs in place you will get a 4.5 pound trigger. If you use the springs that come with the kit it will give you a 5.5 pound trigger. Again, I only bought the Apex sear, and not the whole kit. I'm very happy with the results. Thanks Apex!!! I will be going to the range on Monday to see how the new trigger improves my accuracy.
If I can do this anyone can, lol!!! It's a good feeling to learn a little about the gun that may save your life one day. I don't post very often, but the people on this forum are simply outstanding. I read the forum everyday. Thanks guys!!

Steve
 
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I also installed the Apex sear, but I also installed their striker block, and used all the stock Shield springs. I did not buy the kit, but just those two parts. My trigger pull was 4 pounds 4 ounces. I then removed the stock trigger spring and replaced it with a standard Glock trigger spring. The pull weight was reduced to 3 pounds 10-12 ounces. I now have the pull weight just where I want it.

I installed the Apex blocker, to remove the gritty pull. When I assembled the gun, with the Apex parts, I still had the gritty pull. I pulled the blocker out and found a machining burr, in the blocker bore. Most people think the "gritty" pull is the contact of the trigger bar blocker tab, contacting the blocker. My experience is that S&W machines the blocker bore first, and then machines the striker bore, which can leave a burr in the blocker bore (both bores intersect). I have much experience in production machining, and I find major fault that S&W does not have an operation to make sure there are no burrs in the blocker bore. A simple pass of a hone would solve this problem. Once I removed that burr and reinstalled the blocker, the gritty pull was gone. I now have a very smooth pull, with no buildup or stacking. A constant trigger pull that only moves 1/16 inch to break, once the take up/pre-travel is gone. Release the trigger 1/16 inch and the trigger resets. A nice short, smooth, soft pull to break, with a short reset.

Bob
 
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sgmann69 said:
I just finished installing an Apex sear in my Shield .40 with no issues. It literally took me like 10 minutes from start to finish. I didn't purchase the whole trigger kit, because I didn't want to deal with removing the rear sight. I was really only interested in lowering the trigger pull.
I now have a nice 4.5 pound trigger pull. If you leave the stock springs in place you will get a 4.5 pound trigger. If you use the springs that come with the kit it will give you a 5.5 pound trigger. Again, I only bought the Apex sear, and not the whole kit. I'm very happy with the results. Thanks Apex!!! I will be going to the range on Monday to see how the new trigger improves my accuracy.
If I can do this anyone can, lol!!! It's a good feeling to learn a little about the gun that may save your life one day. I don't post very often, but the people on this forum are simply outstanding. I read the forum everyday. Thanks guys!!

Steve
Click to expand...

That is exatly what I did (sear only) and LOVE IT. I like the feel of the stock striker block, as it helps me stage easier.
 
Bob you rule!! I used your You Tube videos as a reference when I installed my sear. Very well done videos.
 
Apex Fully Machined Sear for S&W M&P Pistols

Is the hard sear for M&P's a universal part for all M&P's (except 45's)?

I like to reduce pull weight only on both Shield and a 9c....can I order 2 of the same parts?

Thanks....Bruce
 
SmurfHunter said:
So basically its their spring combination rate that causes only the 5.5lbs? But if I use the GL 26 spring and stock shield spring I should get around 3.5 average?
Click to expand...

I think so. I do not know for certain, as I have only ever installed the sear. Robkarrob would know more than me, on this.
 
Yes it should be around 3.5 to 3.75, or so. By using the Glock trigger spring, instead of the stock trigger spring, my pull weight dropped .5 pound. These guns are all a little different, and a trigger pull weight variation of .5 pound, between different guns, would not be unusual.

The Apex Duty/Carry trigger kit (DCAEK) comes with a trigger spring and two different sized sear springs. The difference between the sear springs is diameter, not tension. All the D/C springs have more tension/pressure, than the stock springs. By using the Apex springs the trigger pull should be 5 to 5.5 pounds. By keeping the stock springs the trigger pull weight would drop about 1 pound, 4 to 4.5 pounds.

Apparently Apex feels a carry gun should not have a light pull. I agree with that for an inexperienced/new shooter, or someone that does not practice often, with the lighter trigger pull. My Shield has a 3 pound 10-12 ounce pull, which is perfect for me. I found this recent article on light trigger pulls, for carry guns, on the Guns & Ammo website.


Should Your Concealed Carry Gun Have a Light Trigger? - Handguns


Bob
 
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robkarrob said:
Yes it should be around 3.5 to 3.75, or so. By using the Glock trigger spring, instead of the stock trigger spring, my pull weight dropped .5 pound. These guns are all a little different, and a trigger pull weight variation of .5 pound, between different guns, would not be unusual.

The Apex Duty/Carry trigger kit (DCAEK) comes with a trigger spring and two different sized sear springs. The difference between the sear springs is diameter, not tension. All the D/C springs have more tension/pressure, than the stock springs. By using the Apex springs the trigger pull should be 5 to 5.5 pounds. By keeping the stock springs the trigger pull weight would drop about 1 pound, 4 to 4.5 pounds.

Apparently Apex feels a carry gun should not have a light pull. I agree with that for an inexperienced/new shooter, or someone that does not practice often, with the lighter trigger pull. My Shield has a 3 pound 10-12 ounce pull, which is perfect for me. I found this recent article on light trigger pulls, for carry guns, on the Guns & Ammo website.


Should Your Concealed Carry Gun Have a Light Trigger? - Handguns


Bob
Click to expand...

I'm well familiar with the debate of light trigger lbs for ccw as I've carried a 1911 for years with a 3.75lb trigger. I personally love it. That's been my main issue with converting my edc gun to the shield. So basically it looks like I want the apex sear and striker block. From the kit. But I'll use all stock spring except for the trigger spring. That I want the glock 26 spring correct?
 
I would just stick with the factory springs and the Apex sear. I think a 4 to 4.5 pound trigger pull is just right for EDC. I just went to the range today to shoot my Shield .40 with the new Apex sear. I kept all my rounds in the 9/10 ring in a 2" group at 10 yards. I was shooting to the left about about 4" and my POI was erratic. I'm a happy camper now!!


Steve
 
I like the Apex sear and DIY polish/rounding on the factory striker block on M&Ps that don't have the newest upgrades. I traded in my M&P9FS for a 45FS, popped the rear sight off with a delrin tipped punch and hammer, reversed a drill bit in a drill, taped the block down on the bit and spun it on coarse then fine sandpaper at the right angle. Both create a perfect duty/self defense trigger pull.
 
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Interesting how much variation comes in the factory Shield triggers. From the factory mine was just over 7#. The Apex sear only reduced it to 5-3/4# and improved the overall feel. I smoothed the tip of the trigger bar and now all the grittiness is gone. I never touched the striker block or changed any springs.
 
SmurfHunter reply

I can't tell you which Glock spring, as I ordered the spring from Wolf Springs, and it was labeled Glock trigger spring. It is almost identical in shape to the M&P spring. I measured the before and after, using my Lyman trigger pull gage. The Glock spring did reduce the trigger pull 8 ounces, over the stock trigger spring.

Bob
 
So the sear and striker block are interchangable correct meaning from the normal 40 m&p to the shield?
 
robkarrob said:
I also installed the Apex sear, but I also installed their striker block, and used all the stock Shield springs. I did not buy the kit, but just those two parts. My trigger pull was 4 pounds 4 ounces. I then removed the stock trigger spring and replaced it with a standard Glock trigger spring. The pull weight was reduced to 3 pounds 10-12 ounces. I now have the pull weight just where I want it.

I installed the Apex blocker, to remove the gritty pull. When I assembled the gun, with the Apex parts, I still had the gritty pull. I pulled the blocker out and found a machining burr, in the blocker bore. Most people think the "gritty" pull is the contact of the trigger bar blocker tab, contacting the blocker. My experience is that S&W machines the blocker bore first, and then machines the striker bore, which can leave a burr in the blocker bore (both bores intersect). I have much experience in production machining, and I find major fault that S&W does not have an operation to make sure there are no burrs in the blocker bore. A simple pass of a hone would solve this problem. Once I removed that burr and reinstalled the blocker, the gritty pull was gone. I now have a very smooth pull, with no buildup or stacking. A constant trigger pull that only moves 1/16 inch to break, once the take up/pre-travel is gone. Release the trigger 1/16 inch and the trigger resets. A nice short, smooth, soft pull to break, with a short reset.

Bob
Click to expand...

Rob, thanks to your YouTube video, I swapped out the sear myself on my Shield. It being Shield specific, getting the safety lever off was a breeze after you showed how. Thank you very much! The trigger pull on my specific Shield has always been terrible (others agree) and now pretty nice :D
 
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