Anyone done this yet? Very interested in the results. Here's the link: https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid65.html
Apex Shield Carry Kit
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SimpleWeaponSolutions
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I just received my Shield duty carry kit today and will install it this weekend and post an update this weekend.
I don't have a lot of experience with other guns to compare the Shield with, but the trigger seems pretty much perfect. I read the Apex description of what they do, but does this trigger really need improving? Now, if they sold a kit for my Bodyguard 380, that would get my attention.
Hohopelli
Member
I installed mine last Saturday and it's a serious improvement. If you take note of where the trigger engages the sear and the point of firing.. The kit will cut this in about half and drop the weight by a couple of pounds.. Very easy to install as well.. Ron
I run it on both my 9mm Shields.
Just the right touch.
Just the right touch.
jrhodes973
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Does the kit include that white frame thing that the video guy uses to hold the shield?
What is the tool used to drive out the rear sight?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
What is the tool used to drive out the rear sight?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
No it doesn't include the block? You can always ask them where they got it from..
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Hohopelli
Member
You can use a 1911/universal bench block. Wheeler makes one that is available most everywhere. The rear sight is TIGHT! Clamp the slide in a padded vise and carefully drive the sight out with a steel punch and hammer. You'll need a new sight afterwards as the original will be battered. The gritty feeling is most likely due to a burr in the striker block channel.. Youtube can help you out.. Ron
yanici
US Veteran
I installed every thing except the USB. Can't get the rear sight to move.
Still looking for an inexpensive sight pusher.
Pull went from 6 lbs. to 4.75 lbs. I still have a small amount of grit during the take up.
Same here. I live in MA and unfortunately got a MA compliant Shield with the 10#+ trigger. I too got the Apex kit installed minus the USB. Still a big improvement but there is a little grit in the safety block. I gave up trying to drive out the rear sight. Maybe if a good sight tool comes available for the Shield I might try again.
I also did not do the USB because of the need to remove the rear sight. If you do install the USB you will also need to use the springs that come with the kit to actually re-increase the trigger pull weight to a usable level. Lots of dry fires have smoothed out my stock USB and I changed nothing but the sear.
My trigger went from a new stock 7-1/2# to a nice crisp 5-3/4#.
My trigger went from a new stock 7-1/2# to a nice crisp 5-3/4#.
had a gunsmith put the entire kit in at the same time as he installed sights, cost $75. Both the cost of the kit and paying someone with the right tools to do the job were worth it to me. my stock trigger was heavy and rough, I have no complaints at all now.
RobsTV
Member
Friend has one of the Harbor Freight 12 ton shop presses. Do you think that will work fine for removing/installing rear sight?
EDIT: Just took a look at HF and they have a 1/2 ton Arbor Press for $35 less 20% coupon = $28.
Might be the best solution, even better than a sight pusher that costs at least twice as much, provided it will do the job.
Heck, could a reloading press be adapted to work?
EDIT: Just took a look at HF and they have a 1/2 ton Arbor Press for $35 less 20% coupon = $28.
Might be the best solution, even better than a sight pusher that costs at least twice as much, provided it will do the job.
Heck, could a reloading press be adapted to work?
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alatour
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I have the DCAEK in both my 9 and .40 works great. I used this sight pusher to remove the rear sight. Good sight pusher for the money and the amount of times I use it.
An Affordable Pistol Sight Adjustment Tool
An Affordable Pistol Sight Adjustment Tool
There is no question that a lot of different tools will work. Hammer and brass punch to a $150 sight pusher. The question I asked myself is, how often do I need to remove rear sights on a firearm? The $20 or less a gunsmith charges adds a layer of protection to me damaging the gun or losing springs and such.
Hohopelli
Member
That's the best option for most people. If you have a pistolsmith that you can trust and it's not something you're interested in doing yourself, by all means use the pistolsmith. In my case, I need the experience and the pistolsmith fee paid for my vise! Cheers.. Ron
RobsTV
Member
And now for an opposing point of view.
Shield was sent to S&W to fix .40 mag drop, and also to lower measured 9.5lb trigger pull. Based on comments and reviews, I ordered Apex kit while it was away. Since I got the Shield back from S&W, trigger was better than before, almost all grittiness is gone, and not bad for stock that is not broken in yet. Tested the Shield last night and all worked well, with a very good stock trigger after being repaired by S&W from the original 9.5 lb pull. I did not measure pull after repair, since it now felt fine, but guess it is around the 7 lb range now. (pain to measure, as I don't have easy to use tools, and instead make a device to measure each time). Plus I was already going to install Apex kit anyway.
This morning replaced only the sear and trigger spring from Apex Shield Carry Kit. Could not remove rear sight with hammer and punch to install USB, but might try this weekend with a press.
If I had a second chance, I would not install the Apex Carry Kit. While I do notice a slight difference, perhaps lowering pull a pound or two, and making things a little smoother, spending $80+ on parts to make this slight barely noticeable difference seems foolish now. For $20 I would do it again, but for $80 - $100, no, and especially no if I had to buy additional tools or pay a gunsmith. The Shield reviews rave about how great the stock trigger is, huge improvement over prior M&P's, and to pay 1/4 the price of the gun for a better trigger leaves me regretting the add on. Now a trigger as bad as my Bodyguards, I could see spending the $80 on trigger improvements. But the Shield? It already had a good trigger.
EDIT: 3 days later I ground down a chiesel edge blunt flat, and was able to remove the rear sight. Only slight damage was done to the rear sight. Replaced the USB and spring. Not much of a noticeable difference after completing the job, and now after doing the USB, would definitely never do this a second time.
Shield was sent to S&W to fix .40 mag drop, and also to lower measured 9.5lb trigger pull. Based on comments and reviews, I ordered Apex kit while it was away. Since I got the Shield back from S&W, trigger was better than before, almost all grittiness is gone, and not bad for stock that is not broken in yet. Tested the Shield last night and all worked well, with a very good stock trigger after being repaired by S&W from the original 9.5 lb pull. I did not measure pull after repair, since it now felt fine, but guess it is around the 7 lb range now. (pain to measure, as I don't have easy to use tools, and instead make a device to measure each time). Plus I was already going to install Apex kit anyway.
This morning replaced only the sear and trigger spring from Apex Shield Carry Kit. Could not remove rear sight with hammer and punch to install USB, but might try this weekend with a press.
If I had a second chance, I would not install the Apex Carry Kit. While I do notice a slight difference, perhaps lowering pull a pound or two, and making things a little smoother, spending $80+ on parts to make this slight barely noticeable difference seems foolish now. For $20 I would do it again, but for $80 - $100, no, and especially no if I had to buy additional tools or pay a gunsmith. The Shield reviews rave about how great the stock trigger is, huge improvement over prior M&P's, and to pay 1/4 the price of the gun for a better trigger leaves me regretting the add on. Now a trigger as bad as my Bodyguards, I could see spending the $80 on trigger improvements. But the Shield? It already had a good trigger.
EDIT: 3 days later I ground down a chiesel edge blunt flat, and was able to remove the rear sight. Only slight damage was done to the rear sight. Replaced the USB and spring. Not much of a noticeable difference after completing the job, and now after doing the USB, would definitely never do this a second time.
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RobsTV
Member
Just commenting as to my results installing the same 1/2 of the kit that a few of the other users here have also only installed. They posted their results and I posted mine doing the same portion of the upgrade. It is an Apples to Apples comparison.
Not actually half of the kit though. More like 3/4 of the kit. according to what the parts are advertised to mainly do, the trigger spring along with sear and sear spring are what seems to lower the pull, while the USB mostly takes care of the grittiness.
As I said, the grittiness has started to go away on its own, as well as possibly helped by S&W tech, and based on what others are reporting, should go away completely after a few hundred rounds.
Based on the above posts, to go further by replacing the USB may require additional costs of Gunsmith, $100+ sight adjusting tool, new rear sight since old one will be battered according to one user, etc. That all needs to be taken into account as a possibilty when thinking of installing the Apex kit.
However, I did also say that I may finish the job this weekend by using a press to remove rear sight.
Mention of the Apex kit might (will) lead some to think the Shield has a bad trigger and needs this kit to correct the bad trigger. Take a look at other review message boards and that is what some are now thinking. Spend $450 on the Shield and then have to spend another $150 to get a trigger kit (installed). Just think it is fair to mention that none of this is mandatory, and that some might find the additional cost does not equal great benefit, since the stock trigger is indeed a good trigger to begin with.
Please don't take things out of context. I said that I would probably do it again for $20 (if it was priced at $20), not worth the retail price of the kit, so if you think that I am judging 3/4 of the kit to be worth $20, I will agree with that. But I would not pay $60+ more for the rest of it (along with the additional tools and labor required to do the USB).
EDIT: from Apex Website:
Fully Machined Sear: Reduces trigger pull weight, over travel and reset.
Ultimate Striker Block Kit: Smoothes trigger uptake and reduces the double click reset.
Duty/Carry Spring Kit:
1) Trigger return spring: Sets the trigger pull weight into the 5 lb range and increases uptake pressure
2) Shield Slave Pin: Used to hold tension on the trigger return spring during installation.
3) Sear Spring: Aids in returning the Sear to its ready to fire position and maintains trigger pull weight.
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