Apex Shield Carry Kit

RobsTV, I can say that the APEX kit dramatically improved my MA compliant Shield trigger. I tried a free state trigger at my LGS and if that had been available in MA I don't believe I would have bought the APEX kit. The stock trigger on the demo model was that good.
 
RobsTV, I can say that the APEX kit dramatically improved my MA compliant Shield trigger. I tried a free state trigger at my LGS and if that had been available in MA I don't believe I would have bought the APEX kit. The stock trigger on the demo model was that good.

That is a perfect example of where this kit will shine.

And of course there are others that have something that rates a 8.5 out of 10, that will pay anything to get it to rate a 9 or 9.5 out of 10. No problem with consumers that always only want the best. I would rather keep the cash and let the 8.5 break into an 8.75, but that's just me. I expected far too much for $80, and realistically, it costs more than $80 to do it right.
 
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Indeed.. You can't get much of anything these days for $75...

For me.. It's worth the cost.. the trigger pull distance is about half the original and the weight of pull is about 2/3rds or so. Ron

PS: The USB does lower the trigger weight.. You'll need to hone the channel to get rid of the grittiness..
 
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I installed my kit last night, and it made a major improvement. It felt like I had a 15 lbs trigger from the factory and also my rear sight had an insane amount of press fit and it got marred up a bit during removal.

To remove my rear sight, I completely stripped my slide down, remove the striker, and used a propane torch to heat slide and sight. If you decide to do this be careful as there is a plastic sleeve that the striker rides in, and is held captive in the slide by the USB.
 
Check out the Apex trigger pull on the Shield at the 10 minute 15 second time frame of this video:

M&P Shield Apex Trigger Install Results - YouTube

Using the stock Shield springs the trigger pull is 4.25 pounds.


Or check this video showing the same trigger with a trigger stop at 8 minutes 10 seconds:

http://youtu.be/b8TzoGDI3Iw

Trigger pull 3 pounds 10-12 ounces by using a Glock trigger spring.


I am sure I will get comments about that being an unsafe trigger for carry. Improvements to a gun, that allow you to shoot it better, make it a better carry gun. The lighter trigger pull and trigger stop, on my Shield, helps me shoot it more consistently and have faster recovery. People should practice shooting their carry gun, so they become used to the trigger pull, recoil and recovery, and can shoot it accurately. This is now my only carry gun and I don't have to worry about different trigger pulls between guns. What makes a safe carry gun is training and practice, and knowing your gun. Also if you follow proper gun safety rules, your finger should be off the trigger until you know your target and are ready to fire. The Shield has a manual safety. I carry with that safety on and practice flipping it off, with my thumb, as I draw my weapon. I also might have a better idea as to how I would react in a stress situation, as I spent many years in LE.

I would agree that a long, heavy trigger pull is what an inexperienced shooter should have. This would also apply to those that have experience, but fail to practice often with their carry gun.





RobsTV you have to clamp the slide in a vice and pound hard on the sight to get it off. You may have to heat the set screw to get it to loosen. Knock it off from left to right. It is pressed on at the factory and you have to pound hard to drive it off. Wrap your punch in tape to protect the sight from damage. I used only the Apex sear and blocker, not the kit.

I can somewhat agree that the Apex kit was not a dramatic change from the stock trigger pull. It shotrened the total sear, over travel, reset from 7/32 inch to 1/8 inch, or 3/32 inch less. Most of that was in over travel. What I liked best was the reduced trigger pull weight from 6.5 pounds to 4.25 pounds using the stock Shield springs. But with my over travel stop I now have a total sear, over travel, reset of just over 1/16 inch. Now that is a big improvement. If I had installed the over travel stop with the stock trigger, my total pull would have been 1/8 inch.

After the Apex install, I still had a gritty pull. I had to remove the blocker and grind a burr out of the blocker bore. See the following video how I did that:

http://youtu.be/6_r-J4zAJHo




Bob
 
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Shooting my Shield 40 today with stock trigger, I was keeping rounds inside a 5 1/2" bull at 25 yards. Standing unsupported. The stock trigger is easy to control, and more importantly, safe. It's your gun and you can do whatever you want with it, but you will never convince me that you need a 3 pound trigger on a carry gun.
 
It is not my intension to convince anyone to make any modifications to their guns. I am only showing what I did to my gun, and how I did it. A gun is like a steak, some like it rare and some like it well done. We all have our opinions and you won't see me tell anyone they are wrong or try to change their mind. I will only state my opinion and my reasons for that opinion.

Bob
 
Light triggers are fine for the range. Light triggers in carry weapons under real stress will result in unintentional discharges...especially if shooting from reset. Unintentional discharges...such as unintentional double taps (as an example) are not controlled. Uncontrolled rounds result in shooting something you did not intend to shoot. Go look at the recent thread of some guy installing a DCAEK in his 9C. His trigger was around 4lbs because he did not use all the springs, and he was double tapping at the range shooting paper. You can practice shooting paper all you want..but when your life is on the line your fine motor skills are going to go to hell. My advice to you is to spend some more time becoming proficient without having to rely on a competition weight trigger in order to hit what you are shooting at.
 
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If anybody has a USB and spring that they don't intend to use, I'd be interested.
 
It is not my intension to convince anyone to make any modifications to their guns. I am only showing what I did to my gun, and how I did it. A gun is like a steak, some like it rare and some like it well done. We all have our opinions and you won't see me tell anyone they are wrong or try to change their mind. I will only state my opinion and my reasons for that opinion.

Bob

I didn't mean to imply you were Bob, I was just speaking generally. I have the same concerns as kodiakpb above. If the trigger feels fine to me now shooting paper with zero stress, what's it going to feel like with adrenaline pumping hard? A whole lot lighter.
 
I don't think mine is less than 5# with the APEX carry kit. My usual carry pistols are 4-1/2 to 5# adjusted by a pistolsmith and the shield is heavier. 4-1/2# is the minimum for carry (IMO) and 5# is a good number to shoot for. I don't however like 7-8 or 9#.. Ron
 
I'm pretty happy with my stock Shield trigger as is after about 1500 rounds. I don't expect or want it to be a target trigger. I recently felt an Apex trigger on a standard M&P 9mm and want no part of it. I have 2 Pro Series M&P 9mms, each with almost 3000 rounds thru them. The trigger, like wine, just gets better with age (use). As for sights, I think the 24/7 Big Dots would be perfect. That's my plan. It's a 5-10 yard defense gun- I try to keep that in mind.
 
I said I will get a lot of comments regarding a lighter trigger pull. The mention of the "double taps" reference was someone that just installed the kit and took it to the range. Sure this can happen as he was unfamiliar with the new trigger. My comment was you have to practice with your carry gun and know how it shoots instinctively.

My Shield has a light pull and very short reset. I practice often with it. My finger does not go on the trigger until I am prepared to fire. I pull the trigger and hold, for one shot. I do not release the trigger until I am ready for the next shot. When I release the trigger for reset, it is because I am prepared for the next shot. I cannot get unintended firings using this style of trigger control. But if I need to rapid fire three or four shots in quick succession, my modified Shield and training allows me to accomplish this with good recoil control and accuracy.

I have seen many unintended double taps, at the range. These are caused by releasing the trigger to reset, immediately after firing. Then either the recoil or a flinch causes a second pull of the trigger, bang bang. That cannot happen if they practice keeping the trigger pulled back to the stop, after each shot.

The problem I see reading these posts is too many people buy SD guns and do not practice enough with them. They do not practice often and when they do go to the range, they only practice for accuracy. They do not practice for an actual SD situation. These points are not practiced: draw, point, one handed, weak handed, weak eye, etc.

I feel the point and shoot is the most important SD shooting situation. I have a laser on my SD carry guns. It allows point practice away from the range and shows exactly where that bullet is going. When I got my first laser, I was amazed how bad my point and shoot accuracy was. With much practice my aim is now improved. From normal SD distances I know I can hit my target by pointing, without having the laser activated. For longer distances I do aim, but that does take a few more seconds.

Bob
 
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A quick update to prior post.
Sunday I ground down a chisel tip edge flat and blunt, and using a 3 lb hammer, was able to remove the rear sight. Only slight smashed metal damage was done to the rear sight, and happened while I was re-installing it. My fault. Replaced the USB and spring. Similar results as first portion. Not much of a noticeable difference after completing the job, and now after doing the USB, would definitely never do this a second time. It now feels slightly mushy compared to stock. Might later go back to stock parts since "to me" the S&W repaired stock trigger felt better. But will try it for a couple months to see if it grows on me.

Couple things I later thought of that might explain user differences.
The normal M&P had a trigger that was not good.
The M&P Shield has a trigger that is good.
Apex kit for the normal M&P makes the M&P better, like the close to the stock Shield?
The Shield uses mostly the same Apex parts as the M&P.

Also, the Shield is new, and they have made at least 3 versions of the .40 Shield. Perhaps the Sear has evolved with later versions. S&W did do something to reduce the trigger pull on mine that was measuring 9.5lbs. Maybe a sear swap?

If you have a Shield that has a bad trigger, I would suggest the first thing you try is the online repair order form at S&W. They will pay for shipping both ways, and in about 10 days, you will probably have a better trigger.
 
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Did the full trigger kit from APEX on mass comp. gun i will now keep gun what an amazing improvement went from 10.5 lbs. to 5.2 measured wiyh lyman dig. Had to put allen in rear set screw and heat wrench with torch til red hot to loosen , lot of locktite on bottom of site .
 
I'm one of the unlucky ones. Well, unlucky in the sense that the two Shields I picked up had extremely heavy trigger pulls. After reading all the great trigger reviews, I was very disappointed after the first pull. It never crossed my mind to call up S&W and complain about the trigger. It sounds like perhaps I should have. But as I had already installed an APEX kit in my 40 Compact, I just decided to order a kit for each one.

I finished the install this weekend. For the first shield, I put in all of the parts. I started with the Striker Block first. As many have issues with the rear site, this is usually the last change people make. With the stock trigger parts, this change showed little to no improvement on the pull. When I finished the sear install, I finally had the trigger pull that matches my other M&Ps.

Now for the 2nd shield, I only put in the hard sear parts and tested the trigger. Honestly, I can tell a difference between the two, but not by much. In fact, this shield feels like the pull may be slightly more crisp than the one with the striker block. I may leave it this way for a while to see how they age.

So was it worth it? For the change in trigger pull based on how I received them....Absolutely. But if I can't tell much difference on the striker block, I may have wished for just the sear and spring upgrade. I'll report back once I test more.

dwp10mm
 
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